Utah Recovers the Grand Canyon of Arizona

Utah Recovers the Grand Canyon of Arizona

By J. Cecil Alter, Meteorologist,U. S. Department of Agriculture, Weather Bureau

If any group of early day explorers or pioneers of the Grand Canyon region ever looked upon this scenic wonder of the world with that interest, affection, and admiration that comes of possession, proprietorship, or jurisdiction, and maintained and ever improved that acquaintance and contact which comes of such right of discovery and initial authority, the "Mormon" pioneers of southern Utah should be awarded a large share of such credit. Going forth in the early fifties to establish peaceful relationships with the scattered Indian tribes of Utah, Nevada, Colorado, and Arizona, and to establish themselves in permanent homes, the pioneers found the mighty Colorado to be not only that great natural or physical boundary which must permanently form the dividing line between the Central West and the vast Southwest, but they found it an insurmountable barrier between certain of the Indian tribes, as many of those to the southeast were restrained from crossing it by a tradition that disaster would come to them if they did so. However, the "Mormon" settlers looked upon the canyon as but a part of that large family of famous gorges through which the Colorado river flows in both Utah and Arizona, forming no great barrier to their progress in settling the waste places of these states, and they crossed it and recrossed it at many points, setting at naught the traditions so powerful among the Indians. Thus it was, when Major J. W. Powell sought to explore the canyons of the Colorado, beginning in 1869, in his famous boat ride from Green River, Wyoming, to far southwestern Arizona, and including his personal exploration of the north rim country in 1870, and his second river journey in 1871, the "Mormon" settlers were drawn upon extensively not only for supplies and information at many points along the route, but at times guides and assistants were secured from among the "Mormons" including the services of that invincible leader, Jacob Hamblin, who were especially desired in establishing and maintaining peaceful relationships with the Indians. Then, in 1882, when Mr. C, D. Walcott descended into the depths of the upper por-

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910 IMPROVEMENT ERA

tion of the Grand Canyon proper, in the vicinity of the mouth of the Little Colorado, for geological study, some "Mormon" boys were his only companions through a whole winter, lost to the outside world. Thus it was that trails Were threaded in many routes from the settlements of southern Utah to the Grand Canyon, at many points, by amateur explorers, hunters, and outing parties, a contact which has in reality never ceased, nor diminished. But the outside world required a larger and safer trail, an easier trail to the canyon, regardless of the expense, and the railroads provided the old Flagstaff route to Grand View on the south rim, and later from Williams, Arizona, to the "Grand Can-

— Top: Pure Bred Cattle, in the Kaibab. Bottom: A view of the parklike Kaibab, enroute to the north rim of the Grand Canyon.

UTAH RECOVERS THE GRAND CANYON. 911

yon" station by direct railroad, with fine hotel accommodations, attracting attention to the south rim as the apparent "front door" of the canyon. And for nearly a half century the vastly larger part of the tourist world visiting the canyon, (and of the literature written about it), have been concerned with the south rim. Once in a long time, some daring adventurer would penetrate to the cougar-infested north rim country and return to reiterate the fact, as admitted by every visitor who has seen both sides, that the north rim is incomparably superior scenically; but for the most of the years intervening since its original exploration the (mountain) lion's share of the canyon has been left practically unmolested and unseen by tens of thousands who have gone to the canyon, to clasp their hands and rave about it. Lately, however, fulfiling the prophecies of the people of southern Utah, particularly those of Kanab, the north rim is being re-discovered, and reclaimed by its rightful owners. Five years ago north rim visitors began to include those from central and northern Utah, the journey still being made by teams; but with the gradual improvement of the long camp-strewn highway between the railroad and the canyon, and the improvements of the highways, the more adventurous automobile drivers began arriving at the canyon, and one or two years ago all sizes and makes of cars were registered at the north rim camps, until now the north rim, the greatest and grandest shore of the Grand Canyon has been securely and permanently connected to Utah railway points, and Utah main highways, and thus restored, at least in spirit, as a scenic attraction of southern Utah. The Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon, combined, include nearly all of the great circle described by the Colorado river in its course from the Utah state line to the Nevada border of Arizona, with the town of Kanab practically in the focus of the arc, thus described, and about seventy-five miles distant. It is 284 miles on the river from the head of Marble Canyon near Lee's Ferry to Grand Wash, the lower end of the Grand Canyon, in which distance the stream falls 2,200 feet, according to C. E. Dutton, the surveying geologist, ranging from 4 to 21 feet per mile. The most magnificent scenic region is from the lower end of the Marble Canyon, near the mouth of the Little Colorado river, to Grand Wash, or about 218 miles, the deepest and most diversified section being from the Marble Canyon outlet to Powell's Plateau, a distance on the river of about 85 miles, Fortunately, this is about the most accessible region for north rim visitors, and by short side trips from the few points to which automobiles may be taken to the Canyon Rim, practically this entire area may be visited rather conveniently by any one

— Top, left to right: Obi point, Cape Royal in the distance; Angel's Gate (dim); Brahma temple; Deva temple; immediate foreground, on extreme — left, Flat Iron tip of Bright Angel Point. Center: The Transept, an alcove, in the north rim from Bright Angel point. Bottom: — Bright Angel Creek and adjacent temples of Brahma, Deva, and Zoroaster, from Bright Angel Point.

UTAH RECOVERS THE GRAND CANYON. 913

having th&time and the desire. South rim visitors, though aided by magnificent automobile highways along the rim, have access to only about fifteen miles of the canyon as represented by the stream distance. On the inner or shorter rim of the great curve of the canyon, as it cuts its way through the Kaibab Plateau, the distance from the break or walls of the Nankoweap and the Shinumo, the first and approximately the last of the immensely deep amphitheatres or valleys on the Grand Canyon proper, is only fourteen miles in a straight line across this part of the Kaibab, a line which passes very close to the only avoidable springs and camping sites. Thus is the north rim visitor favored beyond comparison over the south rim admirer. But this is only one point of superiority, and a moderate one; the greater disparity is in the views afforded, once the visitor has arrived at the rom^-the north rim scenery being conceded by all who have seen both sides to^lSe vastly superior in every phase and feature which go to make the canyon wonderful, The north rim at Bright Angel Point, the chief point of contact, is approximately a quarter of a mile higher above the river than El Tovar, the chief point of contact on the south rim. This superior altitude affords a commanding view throughout the canyon. The canyon scenery, consisting of long, projecting promontories from the rim, and tall temple-like mountains in the midst of the canyon, with sides and slopes that are gloriously crowned, banded and carved, with a few exceptions, is confined to the north rim and to the region north of the river, all of which scenery is disposed about within very convenient distance from the accessible points on the north rim. Indeed, the bold, grand points extending from one to eight miles into the canyon, lifting their forest-clad backs almost a mile above the canyon bottoms, are in the very midst of the most majestic scenery. Fully a score of greater or lesser canyon temples lift their spires and domes almost to the elevation of the observer, and a dozen greater or lesser promontories trim the southerly border of the Kaibab. Add to this ensemble the beautiful Kaibab Plateau, a smooth-surfaced mountain forty miles in length, through which the north rim highway reaches the canyon, and the region is indeed the "greatest in the world." It cannot be seen in a few minutes, nor a few hours. The devotee will more likely require a few weeks, and no one with a heart for the grandeur in Nature, and an eye for the beautiful, can be content with less than a few days at the canyon. Indeed, assuming that the canyon abyss has been swept clean of the almost ever-present haze, unveiled so to speak, by recent storms and winds rendering the visibility excellent,

Top left:— She admits she is afraid of standing to photograph the Transept which is nearly tlirce-fourths of a mile deep. Top right:—A terminal — point on the edge of Bright Angel point: Bottom left: Rust's cable crossing of the Colorado river. Photo by D. D. Rust, Kanab, Utah. Bottom right: —Bright Angel Tramway and Rust's cable crossing over the Colorado river, the north shore anchorage, and the builder, D. D. Rust.

UTAH RECOVERS THE GRAND CANYON. 915

a condition which may not occur more than three or four days a week, it is a physical impossibility to visit the major points of interest for even a few hours sojourn in less than a wieek. To see it in one or two places only is to see the elephant as the hlindman saw it, and obtain a totally inadequate impresion. As a matter of fact, the scenes under the changing lights and halations from any of the north rim vantage points are so wonderfully like a vast slow-rolling kaleidoscope that one could with profit spend a day or two on a single point alone; and if there is a prospect of unsettled weather, especially stormy weather, which invariably adds much to the glory of the canjon, one could well afford to spend a week on Bright Angel Point alone. The early morning and late afternoon shadows of the temples and towers in the canyon depths, and the promontories cause these objects to stand forth in strong relief, and at these times, toward the sun, the intense and vivid colors literally burn throughout this vast valley of shadow^ in indescribable splendor. Therefore the casual hurrying visitor may make the trip, but he does not "experience" the canyon. After the visitor has pitched camp at Bright Angel or Cat- — alo springs which may be done privately or with the Rust or — Wylie outfjjs maintaining facilities at those places the first view from Bright Angel Point will probably strike him as being the^sgrandest possible. It is only a few rods from the camp. jNojhing less than a day, including an early morning and a laje evening visit for contemplation from the extreme end of Bright Angel Point, will suffice, including such reconnoitering about The Transept and the Companion Alcove, which form the voids at the sides of Bright Angel Point. The next place, which also may be reached by all with comparative ease, is Greenland Rim, the eastern edge of the Kaibab overlooking the Kwagunt and Nankoweap amphitheatres, to the mouth of the Marble Canyon, and of the Little Colorodo. Here the general trend of the canyon is north-south, the general view being easterly. Therefore this region should be visited in the forenoon, as early in the morning as possible, sunrise being better than all, because of the rapid shifting of the shadows and varying of the lights. The views here are comparatively flat in the late afternoon, the canyon forms being pasted against the background in the line of light from the sun. Trips on horseback to the more southerly parts of Greenland, and also to rim regions west of Bright Angel Point, are highly advisable as both regions are replete with scenes which cannot be duplicated elsewhere. Indeed it is like multiplying the grandeur of the feast by two or by three if a two-day journey can he made to Cape Royal, and also to Point Sublime.

— Left top: Camp Woolley at Catalo springs, near Bright Angel springs, — north rim of the canyon. Right: Camp Rust in the Lower Bright Angel Canyon near the cable-way. Bottom left:—D. D. Rust's cableway crossing over the Colorado, near the mouth of Bright Angel Creek. Right:—From Bright Angel Point south across Bright Angel Creek, showing Deva, (large), Zoroaster (small) temples. Photos by D. D. Rust.

UTAH RECOVERS THE GRAND CANYON. 917

Also, a number of half-day walking journeys from the headquarters camp to points on the rim will be taken by the true lover of the canyon. Then if there is room for any more thrills in the visitor's soul, or if he prefers to improve his time, earlier, while waiting for the change in the weather, he will take the river trip on horseback down the Woolley Trail in Bright Angel Creek. This is a royal journey through an ever deepening and narrowing gorge of majestic towers and walls, terminating at a River Tent Camp usually maintained at the Cable crossing by those faithful prophets who have seen the north rim region come into its own, D. E. Woolley, and D. D. Rust, of Kanab, builders of the trail, and the cattle crossing, and developers of the springs at Catalo camp. This trip can be made in two days, but it is better to make it in three, spending one day in the colossal depths of the canyon labyrinth about the mouth of Bright Angel Creek and along the inner gorge of the roaring Colorado. Good pedestrians can readily ascend to El Tovar for lunch on the south rim, and return in an interesting but strenuous day. This will give one an opportunity to appraise the views from the south rim, though at midday they are always poorest because of the lack of shadows. One will also be deeply impressed with the fact that south rim visitors cannot ever, in any important numbers, reach the north rim by crossing the river, and thus that the north side of the world's greatest gorge actually belongs to Utah.

Now, not Then

Speak no kind words to me, Speak now your words of cheer. Bring no fair flowers to me, Bring now your flowers so dear, When I am dead. Now, while I live. Your words unheard will be, Your words may soothe my sorrov Your flowers I cannot see, Your flowers brighten my morrow. When I am dead. Now, while I live.

Do not wait till I am dead Your words of love to say; Do not wait till I am dead To bring your flowers gay; All earthly flowers that bloom Will not dispel the gloom That aye pervades the tomb, When I am dead. San Diego, Cala. D. C. Retsloff.