Groote Schuur: A Sketch

Where beats the broad Atlantic, on Afric's golden strand. GROOTE SCHUUR-A SKETCH. BY RALPH A. BADGER, PRESIDENT OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN MISSION. When I received the editor's letter, asking me for photographs and descriptive matter of local scenes, I at first had a little difficulty in deciding which of two places, prominent in my mind , would be of the greatest interest to readers of the Era, One, the ascent of the perpendicular cliff called Table Mountain, which rises abruptly over 3,800 feet, and with its adjoining peaks practically walls in three sides of Cape Town ; or the residence and grounds of the late Hon. Cecil J. Rhodes, which lie on the east slope of this mountain and extend some ten miles of the thirty to the extreme point of the Cape of Good Hope. My choice was found on the latter, because of the world-reRalph A. Badger

258 IMPROVEMENT ERA. nown of its late owner, as well as its own intrinsic beauty, asa splendid specimen of prosperous days in the Cape; also because of the beauty of its mansion house which is a model of the better style of old Dutch architecture that was in vogue in South Africa during the early days, but which is now rapidly disappearing. The mansion house is called Groote Schuur; the words are pronounced groote schiir, and signify "granary," for which purpose it is supposed to have been built and used in the eighteenth century. It was purchased by Mr. Rhodes, in 1892, and was his residence when at the Cape. It is stated that Mr. Rhodes came great distances just to be in^this particular home, under the shadow of Table MounApproach to Groote Schuur

GROOTE SCHUUR—A SKETCH. 259 tain, and to see the sun rise and shine upon the splendor of the mountain's lofty peaks. Since the death of Mr. Rhodes the property has not been used, as in his will it was left to be the residence of the governor of United South Africa — a union which is as yet future. Groote Schuur is approached by a stately avenue of pine trees which rise heavenward at least one hundred feet, and which broaden out at the top like some giant umbrellas . This avenue is followed by a winding road of oak trees until the house is reached. The editor's letter requesting the photos was presented to the care-taker, as the house and grounds are now in the hands of trustees. The privilege of photographing anything outside of the house was kindly granted me. As we stand before the house, which nestles amidst trees of 1^ t^.. yBlmll^H^' ^^^ ^■^HBBiP .fl^^^L ^K.i . MSk^ ' lil'"' Bill - ^L^HM Wmm^ 1*< Groote Schuur. oak and pine and palm, we feast upon the art and beauty of its scrolled gables, and tiny window panes, with their heavy oaken shutters, and we note the recess of the columned porch, here called a stoep, and the veranda overhead, above which we find the huge bronze tablet representing the landing of the first pioneers at the Cape in 1652, with von Riebeck as their governor. The red-tiled roof is not its original covering; this was added for its protection, after the former roof was destroyed by fire in 1896. As we draw near, we find a unique tiled stoep with its old

260 IMPROVEMENl ERA. oaken chairs, beautifully carved windows, and ornamented window sills, which remind us of the ease-loving habits of the Dutch with their long, dark pipes and bowls. Hard, wood is used throughout the house, and is a source of solid comfort to behold. The rear of the house is equally as attractive as the front. The Tiled Stoep. Here we see to best advantage the wide veranda and stoep which surrounds most of the house, and which is a characteristic of the best houses in semi-tropical climates, where one of the luxuries of life is to live in the open. Above the veranda we see the moulded chimney pots used two by two, in keeping with the gables. The back stoep is tiled, as is the front, and here we find a variety of treasures. Heavy brass-bound chests are interspersed

GBOOTE SCHUUR—A SKETCH. 261 with oaken chairs of ancient pattern, all of which remind one of the days of pirates and the old East India company, which, at one time, owned this country. The stately roses and heavy hanging lamps, which here and there adorn the surroundings, all give evidence of artistic taste and culture. Let us leave the grand old mansion, with its spacious flowerRear of Groote Schuur. gardens on all sides, and see the grounds belonging to the estate. As we turn our faces toward the mountain, a Dutch garden filled with beautiful flowers rises in three white-walled terraces from the gravel court-yard. It is well laid out, and its different tiers are reached by wide steps, which run the full length of the center and terminate at the base of a clump of pine trees, some two hundred feet away. We still ascend the grassy slope, but looking back we get a splendid view of the house with the pine trees in the foreground, and we do not wonder that it was Mr. Rhodes' favorite spot, for it has every beauty and convenience the heart can ask for. The Groote Schuur estate is about ten miles long, and on an average two miles wide. Its value I cannot give. Having never been able to get the slightest estimate, but I should think it would be worth at least half a milHon dollars, if we can imagine the value of so much. As we start to roam through its forests of pine and oak, we are impressed with the natural beauty of the place .

262 IMPROVEMENT ERA. Mr. Rhodes personally superintended the laying out, and he never allowed the ax or shovel to molest its native simplicity. As we follow along foot paths, they lead us over small hills, then deep into ravines where palms in numerous varieties grow wild on every side, and where the sun's rays never penetrate. Then, here and there, are open fields of from five to fifteen acres, sometimes covered with grass and left open for the public, for Groote Schuur is a kS 1^ 1 ^^<^ff§^^/Ktm/tStSBtjSt^^^^_' The Rear Stoep. favorite spot for picnics and holiday outings. Other fields are enclosed in wire netting, and contain animals of different kinds. On the hill above the house, we find Mr. Rhodes has collected quite a menagerie. Baboons, with their apparently awkward bodies and awful faces, squat, chained to their posts. We are told

GROOTE SCHUUR—A SKETCH. 263 that the largest ones are as strong as six men. Here and there we see a little kennel, and near by a tall post — if we look around carefully we will likely see the monkey. In a long row of cages, nicely arranged for public view, we find foxes, wild cats, porcupines, and many of the little animals which are peculiar to South Africa. Also birds of different kinds, of which there is a fine The Dutch Garden. collection, comprising owls, pheasants, parrots, and canaries, in all their various colors and sizes. As we leave the cages and walk around the grounds, flocks of peacocks scurry through the trees, and a kangaroo is seen to rise as we approach his eating grounds. Ducks and geese, in strange varieties, are found on ponds, and as you pass through the grass you see the large oval form of a turtle. This is truly an interesting place, but we are not through yet. Climbing onto a higher road, we wend our way to

264 IMPROVEMENT ERA. "Daniel's Land," the lion's den, where we find his majesty securelybarred in heavy cages. They are fine specimens, three in all, and seem to be perfectly at home. Shortly before the Boer war, when one of these lions was a cub, Mr. Rhodes unfortunately, but with the best of intent, sent View of the Palace frcm the Grassy Slope. it as a present to the late Paul Kruger, but which he promptly returned. Groote Schuur can also boast of the nucleus of a zoo, and as we pass along the drives, we see in different enclosures, ugly gnus, graceful elands, koodoos, hartbeests, zebras, gemsboks, llamas, and ostriches. Some of these animals are quite tame, and will follow you as you go along the paths. In one pretty, little, open place, we find what is called the "Summer House," a small, open structure of Grecian architecture, with an oatside staircase to a flat roof, where one can go and obtain a splendid view of the valley lying below. We only leave this spot when we come upon an old, thatched-roof wind mill which was used in the early dayz for grinding grain, and which so clearly bears

GROOTE SCHUUR—A SKETCH. 265 the stamp of Holland that we cannot resist stopping and taking a picture of the scene. There you see the winnowing floor, the enThe Summer House. closure where the grain was thrown from the wagon to be threshed, and where little donkeys were driven round and round trampling upon it until the grain was separated from the straw, and had The Old Wind Mill. fallen to the bottom, where it was scraped up and then was ready to be ground. As we wind along the many paths, and see the lilies, which grow profusely on every side, we find here and there quaint seats,

266 IMPROVEMENT ERA. some made of heavy wood, others of masonry which is plastered, ornamented and whitened like unto the buildings. When Mr. Rhodes had improved the premises, his first plan was to have large gates, fitted with locks, placed at various points, and put the keys to these gates in the hands of prominent and trustworthy citizens. But, although the locks were even fitted, the keys were never given out. He decided to leave the grounds open to the public, and trust to their appreciation of the place, giving One of the Quaint Garden Seats. only such instructions as forbidding dogs to be taken there, and people from plucking flowers or destroying property. When we roam over this vast estate, we wonder if any' other place could be more beautiful, and jve admire the greatness of the statesman, colonizer, and philanthropist, who, like many others of great renown, died in the prime of life, but who was esteemed even more than a king. 16 Victoria Road, Woodstock, Cape Colony, Africa.