In Old Kyoto, Japan

IN OLD KYOTO, JAPAN. HY HON. FRANK J. HEWLETT," FORMERLY PRESIDENT OF THE CITY COUNCIL. "Let us stop off at Kyoto, the capital of old Japan, and enjoy a day of real pleasure during the Cherry Blossom Festival." '* Agreed," was the unanimous response. Four foreigners sat talking in a coach of the Tokaido railway train that had just left Osaka, bound for Yokohama. The party consisted of Roger Sedge wick, a bright young Englishman, who had just resigned his position as teacher of mathematics in the family of the King of Siam. He had lived at Bangkok for the last five years, and was now on his way to London, i;ia China, Japan and the United States. Alexander Carr, a clerk of the Bank of England, having saved up part of his earnings, was using it to good advantage by taking a trip around the world, seeing the sights and regaining his lost health. Rev. James Stocking, the third party, had just been released from presiding over his little flock of a small parish in India. He was on an eight months' furlough, expenses paid, to visit his relatives in London, whom he had not seen for over nine years: was forty-three years old, but looked nearly sixty. Your humble servant completed the quartette. A few minutes later we arrived at the Kyoto station, which is on the southern outskirts, while to the north-east and west stand out the great ranges of rugged hills, which form an ideal background to the delightful picture presented by the city nestling in among the green fields and densely-wooded slopes. With a rush, nearly twenty jinrikishas came forward; the sturdy little Japs drop the shafts in a circle around, and with cries of "rikisha, rikisha,''

IN OLD KYOTO, JAPAN. 209 plead with you in the few words of English they can muster, to enter their overgrown baby carriage. We selected four that had red banners on which were printed in gold letters, "Miyako Hotel." One's sensations upon first riding in one of these vehicles are peculiar, and few can preserve a serious countenance while bein^ trundled through the narrow streets by a little brown man, with light pants reaching only to the knees, and a mushroom hat. The distance from the station to the hotel is about four miles . We soon learned that Kyoto affords a better opportunity of viewing Japanese life, customs and scenery than any other city in the empire. The introduction of European improvements elsewhere has been attended with such radical changes that old Japan is in danger of being obliterated; but Kyoto, partly because of the nature of its industries, still retains much of the beauty for which it has been famed for more than a thousand years. Kyoto, meaning "the capital," the residence of the emperor, has been closely associated with the imperial family since A . D . PORCELAIN STORES, KlYOMIZU

210 IMPROVEMENT ERA. 794. The city stands one hundred and sixty-two feet above the level of the sea, and covers an area of about eleven square miles. Its inhabitants number about three hundred and seventy-five thousand, all natives, with the exception of about a hundred foreigners. Our "boys" kept up a continued trot, and vied with each other which should lead. Now we .are going through "tea-pot lane," with its scores of quaint china shops. Just in front of us is a native tugging at a cart-load of wood which in America would be considered plenty for a good-sized horse to pull. With a yell of "hi! hi!" they dart to the left of him, just missing by a hair's breadth a collision. Next we are passing over a picturesque old bridge that spans the silvery waters of the Kamo river. Everybody is working — the Japanese could consistently use the bee-hive for their emblem. The merchants are sweeping the streets in front of their shops. They also keep them well sprinkled by means of a wooden dipper with a long handle. If there are no customers to wait on, they manufacture more articles to sell, in plain view of the passer by. THE SANJO-BRIDGE, KYOTO.

IN OLD KYOTO, JAPAN. 211 There are no loafers to block the street corner, as a little brown policeman with blue uniform, with plenty of brass buttons, touches them with his long sword and moves them along. After passing the imperial palace, pagodas and shrines, we are nearing the foothills where our hotel is located. It is the early part of May, and nature is at her best. The azaleas, wistaria and cherry trees are blossoming everywhere ; and while their fragrance, to my mind, is not so delightful as our violet and rose, the colors are as rich and with as delicate tints as the most fastidious might wish for. Nomura San, the proprie-tor of the Mijako, with a polite bow, welcomed us to his hostelry. After writing our names on the register, American fashion, we were directed to our rooms by a dainty little maid, dressed in a bright colored kimona, who toddled along in front of us. We were up bright and early next morning. After a short consultation with Mr. Hamaguchi, the manager, our itinerary for the day was arranged. The four ''boys" were on deck with their rikishas, that brought us from the railroad station, their faces beaming with smiles. One of them, who could talk a little English, was appointed leader, and with a bow received his instructions. By the way, all male servants are called "boy" in the Orient, whether their age be eight or seventy, but as it happened^ ours were young, sturdy fellows. As we were about to depart, the maid presented us each with a new wooden box, about the size of a brick, which contained our tiffin (lunch) — a delicious ona it was, as we proved afterwards. The first number on the program was to shoot the Hodzu-Gawa rapids, for. it is an experience which every visitor to Kyoto desires to go through. After a thirty minutes ride we arrived at the Nijo station, from where we take the train to Kameoka, which requires about one hour. During the latter part of the time we travel just above the river. With a slight tension we form an idea of what to expect on the down trip . The railroad from Saga to Kameoka passes through eight long tunnels. The construction of these called for considerable engineering skill. From Kameoka station to the boat house, is about fifteen minutes walk. As the river was high on account of a heavy rain, we had no difficulty in hiring a boat. The ladies in the different parties were warned by the

212 IMPROVEMENl ERA. guides not to take the trip, as it would be attended with more danger than pleasure,, but to return the next day when the water would be subsided. The boats are large, broad in the beam, and have flat bottoms. The passengers are accommodated with chairs, and occupy the middle part. The crew generally number four men, with long poles which they were expert in handling, and they steered the frail craft between the rocks. Seated on our chairs with bamboo matting wrapped around us for protection from the wet, we were ready to start. "Can you swim?" I asked of the Rev. Stocking. - He replied with a grim smile, "I do not care for a baa-th just now. It would be very inconvenient." For the first five or ten minutes the boat is paddled along the slowly moving stream, and there is nothing absorbing even in the scenery, but then the fun begins. Talk about shooting the chutes, riding around a ferris wheel, or being bumped on a scenic railway, they are no comparisons — that is, if you want real thrilling sport. A miniature Niagara Falls is just ahead. Rocks with churning water all around seem to stand out right across the river. The boat gives a sudden jump as it approaches, our chairs collapse; myself and companions lay in a huddled mass in the bottom of the boat. Before we had time to realize what is happening, it is swirling along, escaping destruction by a couple of inches here and perhaps only by one inch there, with the bottom bending up as it grates over a rock; a flying leap through space, which seemed a mile to us. We drop with a splash — splash — splash, in the seething waters below. A few moments later we are gently gliding in the running stream beyond, all happening within three hundred yards. We sat up, rubbed the water out of our eyes, and there standing in the same places as though they were glued there, were our boatmen, grinning at our ludicrous position. The parson looked scared, while some of the others wished they were on terra firma. We glided along gently for a mile or so, and were just considering whether to take our seats again, when the man at the front sounded a note of warning, "Look — bad — bad." Once more the rocks loomed up again in the distance, which to us looked as big as mountains, and we imagined we could hear the awful roar of the water as it fiercely rolled over them. We ground our teeth

IN OLD KYOTO, JAPAN. 213' together, looked mournfully at each other, shut our eyes, waited for what was to come . It was the same experience over again, only more severe, for this time we were soaked by the water that flowed into the boat. Three or four times this happened, and in a lesser degree many more. The rugged mountains on either side are thickly wooded with pine and cryptomeria trees, for Arashiyama is renowned throughout the empire for its wealth of flowers and cherry blossoms at that season, also for its natural grandeur throughout the whole year. The excitement of shooting the rapids being over, we once more took our seats, enjoying the delightful scenery as we floated down the stream to Saga, where our boys with their rikishas had come to meet us. A run around in the sun soon dried our clothing. Our dainty tifiin quickly vanished with the keen appetite that the trip developed. After watching the natives carry the boats over to the train to be hauled back above the rapids, we are ready for the return trip. The ride home is through a beautiful country; now we are in a bamboo grove, a few minutes later passing through a fragrant tea garden, just at the right time to pick some of the tender buds that are sprouting from the tops of the bushes. Next we go through some rice fields that are laid off in squares like a checker board; for a fence, only a ridge of dirt is used to denote the boundary lines between each tiny farm. The next stop is at the Buddhist Temple of Hongwan-ji, one of the largest and most imposing in Kyoto. The large trees in the court yard surrounding the temple with their out-spreading branches, many of which would reach one hundred yards, were braced up by strong props set on solid masonry. We were informed that they were planted about the year 1471. After removing our shoes, we were allowed to enter. In making a tour of inspection, visitors are first led into the apartments, and shown what is reputed to be one of the finest collections of decorative art in the city. The names of the different chambers are taken from the subjects pictorially represented, such as stork, chrysanthemums, wild geese, etc., all superbly executed on dull-gold background, which gives a particularly rich effect. The first rooms, decorated with sparrows and bamboos, is where we registered. When I wrote. Salt Lake City, U. S. A., the parson said:

214 IMPROVEMENT ERA. "Why bless me, if that isn't where the 'Mormons' live!" Further on we come to a wooden door with a large, beautiful painting of three monkeys on one side. One had its hand pressed over each ear; a second, over the eyes; the third, so as to seal the lips. The explanation was — "Hear no evil" — "See no evil" — Speak no evil." Next was the chrysanthemum room, with fans painted on the ceiling. There was another wooden door decorated with muskrats; on the reverse side, with horses; and yet another door with a cat looking in eight different directions. Close by is the Shiro-join, in suite; the third, or lower room of which is ornamented with peacocks both on the screens and ramma. Chinese subjects are depicted in the other two rooms ; while at the back of the raised part shows one of the Chinese emperors giving audience to his subjects. Outside the Shiro-jo-in is the "No-dance" stage. The painting in the small room beyond represents an ancient hunt, and quite near the door, showing the bloody deed which caused Kurodani to renounce the world and retire to the Kumagai monastery. Then comes the stork room, the largest and most gorgeous of all, containing two hundred and fifty mats. At the rear of the higher portion, are magnificent Chinese pictures. The storks, after which the room is called, are painted on the side screens, while the ramma is carved with cranes. Returning to our starting point, by a different way, are many paintings on wood — a dragon, a white tiger— but all more or less defaced, and passed with a mere glance. Many of the floors when trodden upon give out a creaking sound, which (to Japanese ears) resembles the song of a nightingale. The main hall, erected about one hundred and fifty years ago, contains an image of Amida, several sacred tablets, and pictures of many celebrated priests. The Daishi-do dates from 1645, and apart from its size and massive construction, is chiefly of interest owing to the sitting image of Kenshin-Daishi, carved by himself. This is especially revered, as after his death it is said to have been smeared over with the ashes from his cremated body. The Daish-do also contains portraits of all the dead abbots, the forefathers of Count Otani, the present lord abbot of the Hongwan-ji, the typical temple we were now visiting.

IN OLD KYOTO, JAPAN. 215 Our next stop was at the Higashi Hongwan-ji. This huge temple is larger than any other in Kyoto, and probably the largest in the empire; and covers an area of forty-five thousand square feet. The portion set apart for worshipers has five hundred and fifty mats, the great chancel extending from end to end accounts for the rest of the space. The decorations are massive, but no particular feature, with one exception, attracted our attention. This was an alcove draped with heavy curtains; as they were slightly withdrawn, we witnessed a sight that slightly savored of the Chamber of Horrors. There were twenty-five coils of rope, each ninety feet long, six inches in circumference, and made entirely from human hair. They were kept in the temple go-downs (sheds for building material) and at the time of construction were used to haul the timbers into position. Ordinary hemp rope would have served the purpose equally well, but sentiment enters very largely into the lives of Japanese . The women had no money, they had practically nothing but their hair, so they sacrificed that to show their sympathy for their religion. The next place my companions desired to see was Te-ji, one of the most ancient temples in the old capital. Being somewhat tired, I sat on the front steps and awaited their return. My rikisha boy came up to me with a smile on his face that seemed to last for a minute, and said in plain English: ''Plenty Buddha." While waiting, I passed the time scribbling some notes in my diary, and was soon surrounded by at least forty children, who eagerly watched every movement. Evening found us attending the famous "Cherry Blossom Dance." Foreigners, as a rule, enjoy it about the same as an average Japanese would one of Wagner's masterpieces. Still it is the thing to do, and I must confess we found it both novel and interesting, A few seats were arranged on the side of the stage for tourists. The native men and women sat on the floor. A sprightly little maid brought us, by way of refreshments, without being ordered, a small biscuit, and a dainty confection, which was followed by a tiny cup of tea. The theatre was profusely decorated with flowers consisting of azaleas, wistaria, and cherry blossoms by the cart load. The striking of a gong was the signal for the curtain to roll up . Form-

2 16 IMPRO VEMENT ERA. ing a pretty tableau were thirty danseuses, ranging from fifteen to eighteen years of age. Dressed in their kimonas and obe, which represented every color of the rainbow, with fan in hand, their jet black hair adorned with jewels and being surrounded by flowers, they had a charming effect. In addition, there was an orchestra which consisted of twenty older women, half on one side, the remainder on the opposite side of the stage. The instruments, drums, bells, and samisens, served to mark time, also incidentally to add another touch of orientalism. The term "dance" is rather a misnomer, according to westerner's ideas, as it consists of a succession of marches; then of a sudden they form into a very pretty tableau. This was repeated time and time again. The effect was so graceful and charming that we viewed the performance with delight; also left, feeling that the most refined ladies could attend these dances without the slightest fear of seeing or hearing anything undesirable. That night we retired to rest, looking at the bright side of life in old Kyoto — forgetting the darker shades, and reflecting: "How sweet it is to dwell with thee, Tjand of the rising sun, Where beauty, age and mystery, Are combined in one." Salt Lake City, Utah. MENTAL EXERCISE. Nothing else reacts so favorably upon the various functions of the body as strong and vigorous mental exercise. Nothing else will take the place of clear, forcible thinking. It is a perpetual tonic. The moment there is chaos in the mental kingdom there is anarchy in the physical kingdom. It is well known that great thinkers are longer-lived, as a rule, than indifferent thinkers. Nothing will destroy itself quicker than an idle brain. If there is anybody in this world to be pitied, it is the one who thinks he has nothing to do, no motive to impel him out of himself, no ambition which will exercise his brain, or his ingenuity, and call out his resourcefulness, or exercise his energies.— Success.