The Pioneers and Southern Utah

Improvement Era Vol. XXXII NOVEMBER, 1928 No. 1 The Pioneers and Southern Utah By J. R Kennard IN a way it has never done before, the world is taking note of a valiant service, a service rendered long years ago but only now, at last, rewarded. Men who would dare hell-heat or Arctic cold, men broad- brained and broad-shouldered for the task, large-hearted and clear- eyed men stayed and fought it out. They could not know that acclaim would be theirs, they did not care; theirs was a devotion of heart and life to God. They toiled for a principle, they built for genera- tions yet unborn. And now only a few are left to hear the meed of praise that rightfully belongs to every soul of them. On the recent tour of the southern Utah parks, to the north rim of the Grand Canyon, conducted by the Union Pacific Railroad Company, formally to open the magnificent lodge built there on the very brink of the mighty gorge, the dominant note was veneration for the "Mormon" pioneers who settled the country all 'round about. The party numbered two hundred or more, made up of capitalists, captains of industry, railroad presidents and executives, governors, senators, congressmen, mayors of large cities, presidents of chambers of commerce, heads of government bureaus, a picked coterie, a class of men who wield influence in the very course of hu- man society, men whose power is unquestioned in what this country shall do and think, in what shall be the verdict of America in any given premise. And along in the party, too, were fortunate scribes, newspaper men, invited to perform the pleasant task of telling the world what took place and to record their impressions. The spot-news side of the story has been taken care of. We have told the world that the trip was made, that the lodge was dedi- cated, that the Kaibab trail from the rim to the river was ceremoni- ously put into commission, that a surprise was sprung in the creation of Bryce Canyon National Park, that the mile-long tunnel out of Zion Canyon was holed through, that every man of the party arrived safely back and that it. was a wonderful trip. We have, naturally, enthused a bit in the telling, imbuing our accounts with the lure of the desert, the majesty of the forest, the grandeur of the cliffs, the tang of the mountains, but yet there remains the genius

4 IMPROVEMENT ERA of it, the dominant influence or essential element, which to this humble scribe was the very reverence those men showed for the pioneer and the pioneer history of the region. Not a sneer, not even a lifted eyebrow was seen on the entire trip. They caught the spirit of the early day did those men, rolling along in palace busses, sleeping in deluxe cabins, banqueting in gorge- ous dining halls; they gazed at the same towering crags, they scanned the same distances as did those of the former day who in whole- hearted simplicity wrought there in wholesome interest of their fel- low-men. Those of this day too were men of generous impulses, clear-eyed beholders of great things, men of vision and withal men of sympathy, just men. They sensed what it took to stay and conquer such a region, and they paid the homage due, in spite of rubber tires and cushioned seats where formerly were the lumbering wain and the jolting slab. Every mile of the way brought it back. A pioneer village, a rocky dugway, the long trail, the water holes, the drift fences on the old cattle ranges, an old ranch house or fort, every one a landmark and every one an object of veneration. No more from now on will men scoff at the conviction that held the "Mormon" pioneers in southern Utah than at the motive that prompted the Catholic fathers to thread the wilderness and establish the missions which now arc very shrines in the hearts of all who visit them. And why should it not be so? A motive is a motive and a conviction is a conviction, and strong, broad-minded men wherever they see sincerity of purpose accord to it its due. And so, southern Utah, with its wealth of romantic history, is coming into its own. And now to lapse into chronology, lest some phase of the genius of the trip be overlooked, and trusting to the muse of the rattling typewriter keys for what might follow. Wednesday night, Sept. 12, it was that the Salt Lake contin- gency boarded the train in the Union Pacific depot. Each was given a guest badge and the comfort and welfare of all were amply provided for. The genial D. S. Spencer was ubiquitous, looking out for everybody. That night in our berths. At Cedar City next monr'ng we pulled in just ahead of the Los Angeles train and the party was more than doubled in numbers. Breakfast in the Escalante Hotel and all on hand for the loading of the busses. Efficiency was everywhere. Courteous drivers packed grips in the big rear-end compartments of the coaches, names were called, seats were assigned and we pulled out at intervals along the way south. Good roads made the going easy — (what a marvel, the work that has been done on the roads, everywhere, from the level stretches

THE PIONEERS AND SOUTHERN UTAH 5 to the difficult engineering feats of dugways and switch-backs.) Every mile was a delight. Soon, and very soon, we were in inter- esting country. Through pioneer towns all down the valley, the great Hurricane fault on our left. Came to Anderson's ranch where the busses all pulled up and the first inkling of the spirit of the trip was manifest. Here, it was pointed out right at the outset, is an old pioneer ranch redolent of the past; the marvel of the perseverance of the pioneers was beginning to take hold. Off again, through Toquerville, famous in early days for its grapes and Dixie wine, skirting Hurricane and up a long well con- structed dugway, on to the Virgin river; then through Rockville and other towns to the mouth of Zion Canyon. It burst on us all at once, Zion did. There we were under the spell of those mighty mountains almost before we knew it. Mas- sive, tall, mighty, they towered above and we threaded our way along between. Came to the lodge. All out and registered. Lunch eon. Then a trip up the Zion-Mt. Carmel highway, out of a lower branch of the canyon. A wonderful piece of road construction it is. the climb up and back and ever up, the canyon floor receding ever farther and farther below and the successive switch-backs, mount- Union Pacific System Lodge on North rim of Grand Canton, at Bright Angel Point. Dedicated and formally opened September 15, 1928

6 IMPROVEMENT ERA ing with us one after the other. We entered the portal of the tunnel. Why a tunnel? We had climbed on an open roadway high up to the very foot of the beetling, perpendicular, massive mountain. No way to go farther without hewing a solid rock-shelf road or cutting through. The engineers for it, they chose to cut into the solid rock, back into the cliff and up to its very towering summit. A mile of tunnel through the solid cliff with galleries at intervals looking out over the canyon and the open road far, far below. Near the face of the bore in the light of a gallery where the busses, by much backing and cramping, could and did turn 'round, the resident engineer, R. A. Brown gave an informal talk on the history and construction of the gigantic passage. Not mine to give in detail, the information he imparted; just a few highlights, as I must hurry on the story. I have called it a mile- long tunnel; I have here in my notes that it is 5,700 feet, so I am not outside of facts. It cost $55 a lineal foot to construct, etc. Back to the lodge and right on past it to the Temple of Sin- awava, the end of the auto road. Here a lecture by Geologist Wood- bury and those who wanted hiked to the end of the trail in the nar- rows. I am here to testify that the hike was interesting. Must not stay too long in Zion, lest you weary; but I just must mention the Great White Throne, Cable mountain — there's a story in itself, how timber is transported on slender steel cables down from the plateau thousands of feet above the floor of the can- yon and out for the building up of the towns below — Angel's Land- ing, Lady Mountain, the Three Patriarchs, the Watchman, West Temple, and others, awesome in their grandeur and height and massiveness — no disappointment this to those of you who have heard of Zion Canyon and have seen pictures of it but have yet to see it; it will surpass all you can imagine. And the coloring, almost — I say almost — as vivid as the painting of it you have seen. Back to the lodge, dinner and a program. It was here the real genius of the trip burst forth. The pro- gram featured "Days of '47," Park Superintendent Scoyen was master of ceremonies, under Stephen T. Mather, director of national parks. A well enacted scene of pioneer days was put over and a bit of history was couched in pleasant banter between the m. of c. and a capable pioneer impersonator. But what followed was not imper sonation; the old original fife and drum corps that played in pioneer days for Fourth of July and Pioneer day celebrations in Rockville and Grafton made the rafters roll with the shrill call of the fife and the clatter of the drums. The whiskers on the old drummer were his own. His name was Dennett and in a private chat later he said he owned once the spot of ground on which now stands the lodge; on twelve acres he said he cultivated and raised corn and potatoes on that very spot, and reared his family there. He told of the old days when

THE PIONEERS AND SOUTHERN UTAH the Indians were neighbors and just how to get along with them was the real problem. Too much, pro rata, on Zion Canyon, already, but no getting away from here without telling about an impromptu talk by Presi- dent Anthony W. Ivins and the impression he made. He spoke remi- niscently of the days when he rode the range 'round about and his picture of those old days and the color of patriotism and service he gave to it all touched every listener. The spirit of the trip was rampant now. This is the land of the "Mormon" pioneers, hardy souls who made the country habit- able. Mr. Mather everywhere referred to it, and reverence was in his very eye and voice, welling from his heart whenever, as master of ceremonies, he spoke of it. Well, next morning off again. At Rockville we crossed the Virgin and climbed out on the table land. Except for steep places it was fast going and soon we crossed the Arizona line. Then bearing to the eastward we passed through big country, cattle ranges, mesas and cliffs in the distance and to Pipe Springs. This was an official stopping place. All the busses pulled up and unloaded. Can't stop to describe it, save to say it is a rock mason enclosure, two houses facing each other across an inner court, with massive (reconstructed) gates at either end of the court, the whole built over the spring on the side hill at the foot of the fault mountain, a fort built to protect the early settlers 'round about from attacks by hostile Indians. There are the old port holes and the scarred walls, the old, old furniture and the very atmosphere of those romantic and terrifying days. The speakers here were President Heber J. Grant, President Ivins, Mr. Mather, Indian Commissioner Burke and a local pioneer, Jonathan Heaton. It was impressive, the past and the pres- ent, the reverence and the rapt attention with which the gather- ing listened. President Ivins spoke of personal experiences of pioneer days, and President Grant of the pleasure the Church finds in co- operating with the Government in the preservation of landmarks and the development of the country. And on across the same big country, towering mesas and buttes, vast distances and dim mountains to Fredonia, in Arizona. Here a four-mile dip back into Utah to Kanab for luncheon at the Union Pacific dining lodge, a reconstructed pioneer dwelling. Here, too, was a pleasant surprise. The Kanab ward choir sang a number of selections, among them "Come, Come, Ye Saints," which is not only President Grant's favorite hymn, but, as was said, is also a favorite of Mr. Mather's since he has heard it sung here in Mormondom and has caught the spirit of it. President Grant stood with the choir and sang with the rest of the "Mormon" songsters. Retrace to Fredonia. On and into the Kaibab forest. From

8 IMPROVEMENT ERA the open desert to the tree-land. Not too sudden the transition; first a scrub cedar, then another; then a scraggly pine, and another; thick- er; finally the thick forest. You've heard about the deer among the stately trees. They're there. And what a forest! Big yellow pines standing just close enough together to give the effect of a park; no underbrush, just grass, which in a less dry season and earlier would be green, and the vista of trees fading away and blending in the distance. And the deer. We in our car counted them. In two's and three's and up to bunches and small herds of from eight or ten to sometimes twenty: our total was just under six hundred. Through Pleasant Valley, past V. T. ranch, past Jimmy Owens' old pioneer cabin, where 'twas said the late President Theo- dore Roosevelt camped and, with Owens, hunted cougars on the north rim. At the lodge. Built right on the cliff overlooking the canyon. Personally, I had my first look into the mighty gorge from the lounge room through the great windows, and from the veranda far out, and farther than one could have gone at any other point. My impression? The same as yours was if you've seen it or will be when you do if you have not. It has been gloriously described times with- out number, has the Grand Canyon, and after all there is a nameless thrill for any living being who beholds it for the first time. I can't tell you; go and see it! Only let me quote President Roosevelt: The deer especially like Pleasant valley

THE PIONEERS AND SOUTHERN UTAH 9 "The Grand Canyon fills me with awe. It is beyond com- parison— beyond description; absolutely unparalleled throughout the wide world. It is the one sight that every American should be- hold." My own thoughts went instinctively to my Creator, as I looked, and looked. I thought of the cosmic, the primeval. Surely, such grandeur, such a supreme epic of God's handiwork, bestows a new sense of the wonderful in nature, of the earth's beauty and size. Assignments to cabins de luxe, dinner and an informal program. Here again President Ivins touched the chord of early days; and there were other numbers, among which, I suspect somewhat against their personal desires, was the presentation of the drivers of the busses. A fine lot of manly young fellows, all of them, from the University of Utah, and the Brigham Young University, mostly; clean, upstanding every one. Next day on the rim. Two trips were planned, either one of which any member of the party could choose, but time not permitting both. One was an auto ride to Cape Royal, the other a horseback ride down the trail, I should say, about two-thirds of the way to the river to Roaring Springs, whence comes the water system by a wonderful piece of engineering for the lodge and surroundings. This was Saturday morning, and just before the parties took off the trail was dedicated, the Kaibab trail. Under Mr. Mather as master of ceremonies, Park Supt. Tillotsen, who was engineer in charge of the construction of the trail, told how it was done and the part played by young men and boys, "Mormon" boys, from the towns and country of southern Utah and northern Arizona. Bishop R. S. Mc- Allister of Kanab broke a bottle of ginger ale on a rock at the foot of the trail sign post and a march of a few rods was staged down the incline, all singing, "There's a Long, Long Trail A-winding." The trip down the trail must have been great; I know per- sonally that the ride to Cape Royal was, that the luncheon, under an overhanging cliff, was superfine and that the view from the Cape Royal point, far out over a window wall along a narrow passage with thin air on either side and on either side a sheer drop of thou- sands of feet was impressive. Impressive, I say and I'll let it go al that. Back to the lodge, dinner and the formal exercises of dedicating the inn. There were numerous speakers, a long list of men represent- ing the different states, the different cities, the different government bureaus and departments, too many to name and attempt to tell what they said. But the dominant note was the wonderful occasion, the service rendered by the great builders, the empire makers, the epoch of the time. Carl R. Gray, president of the Union Pacific, made the formal presentation, and President Heber J. Grant made the closing

10 IMPROVEMENT ERA address. Mr. Mather was here as elsewhere master of ceremonies, and he sounded the part played by the "Mormon" pioneers and early set- tlers, referring to President Grant and his people as real builders of a great empire. We must be getting on. Next day Kanab lay on the regular route. President Grant had gone ahead of the caravan and was in attendance at Sunday School in the pioneer settlement. Bishop McAllister personally came out and invited every man of the party into the chapel and nearly all of them went in. Here they saw how a "Mormon" Sunday School is conducted and the impression on those men was noticeable. An occasion, too, later in the day was the dedication of the new Kanab chapel at which President Grant officiated. On up the country, characteristic every mile of it, through "Mormon" settlements, such as Orderville, Glendale, past Cedar Breaks Junction, through Hatch and to Bryce Canyon. In time to get the late afternoon effect on the fantastic forms in the massive amphitheatre. No attempt at description, save to say that Bryce is a blend of exquisite beauty and grotesque grandeur. It is not a canyon in the common conception of the term, but truly an amphitheatre. Open- ing out of the valley plain in the distance far below, the gorge widens to this wonderful vista at your feet. A vast bowl, in which stand the myriads of forms, gigantic, massive, solid stone, and yet as delicate as lace or filigree, colored with the white of frost and the pinks of glowing embers. Sunday evening was the program commemorating the formal creation of Bryce canyon national park. There were speeches by representative men called upon by Mr. Mather, featuring a history of national parks in general and of Bryce in particular by Superin- tendent Allbright of Yellowstone park, an address by President Grant on tenets of the "Mormon" Church and a dedicatory prayer by President Anthony W. Ivins. Just to illustrate: Mr. Mather, when he called on Presidents Grant and Ivins, said: "President Grant and President Ivins, we love you both; we know and acknowledge your worth and the work you and your people have done for us." And not a man but caught the self-same spirit. Calls next morning for the sunrise effect on Bryce. But who can command the sun — in this day and age? That particular morn- ing clouds hung in the east. But they lifted at intervals and gave us a hint of the flaming beauty. Some there were who had seen it before said it was especially effective, the alternating lights and shadows as the clouds shifted across the sky and the sun shone out or hid again its face.

THE PIONEERS AND SOUTHERN UTAH 11 At Bryce that day till 1 o'clock. An auto ride 'round the rim and a climb to Inspiration Point. And this is Bryce! No one can make you see it by proxy. Go, do go and see it. There was a horseback party down into the canyon, but some of us went down afoot, down among those massive, fantastic forms, the intimate, personal touch, down to the floor of the canyon among the pines, and out by another trail along the slope below the rim and skirting the towering temples and domes that are Bryce. Then the ride through beautiful mountain country to Cedar Breaks. Cedar Breaks is like Bryce, only not so many forms, but fully as large in amphitheatre extent and as deep and awe-inspiring. And then the last leg; and the psychology of it! From an elevation of 9,000 feet on the rim of the Great Basin a sudden drop past the country looking down on the very head of Zion canyon with its towering mountains in the distance and flaming, gorgeous autumn foliage colors, into Cedar canyon, in itself a very marvel of a gorge, and down and out to Cedar City, the place whence we started. One more banquet, with speeches and resolutions and felicita- tions, and a surprise. By courtesy of President Heber J. Grant ar- rangements were made with the director and the members of the Cedar City choir to sing for that party of men, visitors most of them to Utah and most of whom had never heard such an aggregation of singers. And did they like it, those men? They stood up and ap- plauded and cheered and could not seem to get enough, and the gen- erous singers gave them a lot, too; and it was fine singing, such as only a good "Mormon" choir can put over. At this last meeting, too, Mr. Mather referred feelingly to the warm friendships made on the trip, to the broader understandings as between men and groups of men that had resulted from the fellow- ship of the trail, and expressed gratitude to a Divine Providence that no mishap or unpleasant circumstance had marred the event from the beginning to end. As a last expression of good-will, he asked President Ivins to pronounce a benediction. And that benediction was given as from one holding the divine right to speak for Christian men in communion with their Maker, an impressive finale to an oc- casion that will mark a new era for Utah and its people. That's all. The party separated. The specials pulled out and the Pullman berths were ready, for the visitors from other states or for the Salt Lakers. We arrived in Salt Lake for an early start on a day's work, back from a wonderful trip. And remember, the work, the lives, and the service rendered by the pioneers of southern Utah is coming into its own and will be in the limelight as the thousands of tourists visit those wonder places in future years.