A Visit to Newcastle-on-Tyne

A Visit to Newcastle-on-Tyne BY LYDIA D. ALDER

We sailed on the North Sea east of England from Stepney, not far from London, on the Tynesides, 360 miles to Newcastle-on-Tyne. We dreamed away the delightful evening on deck, but later a strong wind forced us to seek our state-rooms. The boisterous wind screeched and howled, sobbed or wailed, throughout the night, but there was no genuine storm. An aged Scotch lady, however, in an adjoining stateroom, frequently moaned, "O this is serious; this is serious!"Perhaps hurrying footstepsand the clanking of chains on deck, and the fact that nearly everybody on board, was seasick, added to her distress. But the morning dawned fair and bright, the wind subsided, and we rejoiced that "night had flown away," giving place to balmy breezes, and sunny, blue skies. The vessel majestically swept past South Shields, at the mouth of the Tyne, then slowly drew up to the pier at Newcastle. Awaiting our arrival there was our fellow townsman, Frederick A. Mitchell. This was a happy meeting for our company, consisting of Miss Farnsworth, my companion in the London conference, my daughter Mae and myself. We were taken to the conference house, 37 Cavendish Road, by President Mitchell. Here a number of missionaries were assembled, who, like ourselves, had come to attend the conference at Newcastle. Sister Parrish, wife of Elder Hyrum Parrish, of Centreville, was with her husband laboring in Newcastle. Sister Parrish is a lady of and gentle manner, and was the bright refined center of this conference home. She was both mother and sister to the elders who were laboring here, and who had left their own mothers, wives, and sisters, in their far away Utah homes. We ate the first home-made bread in Newcastle that we had tasted for two years. Sister Parrish had an influence for good upon all who came under her sunny smile. Her noble characteristics gained many friends for her, as well as welcome entrance into homes of

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wealth and culture. Some of her friends attended our meetings, perhaps out of courtesy, for they did not seem to want religion, nor to be disturbed in their preconceived ideas of God, nor the worship they accorded to him. On the day following our arrival in Newcastle, President Mitchell invited his guests to visit the Jesmond Dene, a beautiful canyon presented to the city of Newcastle by Lord Armstrong, inventor and owner of the Armstrong gun. The city of Newcastle has erected a very pretentious building in the Dene, at a

point nearest to the city, where, in its spacious hall, 20,000 people have been banqueted in a single day, on holiday occasions. The

THE WATER HAS WORX ITSELF TWO BEDS AROUND THE ROCKS

Dene reminds one of our own City Creek canyon, and indicates what might be done with it, if a like sum of money were expended upon it, as has been used in beautifying the Dene. The glorious natural scenery of the Dene is wondrously enhanced by the ingenuity, art, and skill of man. In places are grassy, sloping banks, where a multitude of gorgeous wild flowers bloom. In some parts the white, canyon walks almost touch the winding stream. Near the old, deserted mill, that used to grind the corn,

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the water has worn itself two beds around the rocks, forming a lovely waterfall. In this ideal place, Brother Parfish took a picture of the seated group. Farther up the stream, which, dancing, gurgling, loitering or speeding, as it flows along, are the stepping stones, so named because one must step on them in order to cross over the water to the other side. Many merry bursts of laughter evidenced the progress, successful or otherwise, that we made in accomplishing this feat. But, like those of old of whom we read in the good Book, we succeeded in crossing over dry shod. Towering high at the head of the canyon, the Armstrong

PRESIDENT MITCHELL AND HIS GUESTS

castle crowns the beautiful Buttercups, hyacinths, and scene.

daisies, red, yellow, white and pink, bloom in profusion on the

side hills. Trees of other lands rear their stately crowns, and

shrubs abound that grow beyond the seas. In the grounds of a little historic house, preserved with its

surroundings in the canyon, we saw a most unique natural flower- pot. It has the eyes, nose, and mouth of a man, a running vine forms his beard, and grows oh his head, like hair, giving him the appearance of a Zulu. From an upper bank we obtained a lovely

view of the Falls and the Armstrong mansion, and the Jesmond and we. Dene. The events of that day are passed into history, pictures taken then as pleasant reminders of that happy prize the time.

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Continuing our walk, we visited the ruins of King John's castle, and an ancient rock observatory. How picturesque is storied England ; not a foot of her soil is without a history, while stories of the long ago are breathed by every rock and stream.

Slowly wending our way downward, we reach the Bowling Green, a modern place of recreation. This is the spot where Brother Webster took a picture of us. Happy as children, we wandered that day in a Land Beautiful,and like children, ever unsatisfied with the present and yearning for the future, hastened on in eager search of new scenes, not

GROUP OF MISSIONARIES RESTING IN THE DENE

prizing those then with us. The flowers we hold in our hands are seldom appreciated, in our eager desire to find others more fair. We seldom stop to think that flowers of more brilliant hue may be out of reach, or that far over some dangerous they may cliff

As we look only sway tantalizingly before our wistful vision. upon the flowers in our hands, we sigh for behold as we gaze ;

upon them they are withering away The charm of anticipation !

dies with possession ; yet, there is an undefined yearning for other things, not now understood.

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The St. Nicholas Cathedral is a feature of Newcastle. The present structure is said to date from 1359, and was erected on the ruins of a church built in 1091. Its grand altar is made of alabaster. The attendant proudly exhibited to us the altar cloths. The one for ordinary use is in green and gold. The one in blue and gold is for Lent the one in white and gold is for Easter. The ;

ashes of many hundreds of people are built into their tombs in this church. A handsome painting, "The Washing of Feet," about twenty feet long, and ten feet high, was shown and is said to be about 350 years old. To the beholder, the eyes of the figures appear to follow him from every side. The work in this grand Cathedral, we were told, was done by Newcastle workmen, and is certainly wonderful, both in design and execution. On the south side is a very old chapel, which, it was claimed, belonged to the original church. We were also shown a very old grave cover, and the effigy of a Crusader. The model of a guillotine is shown, which French soldiers are said to have made out of the bones of their food. The Cathedral is a high church, with a fine organ, and costly, painted windows. The only difference between a high church, and a Roman Catholic, is the absence of the confessional. The crucifix is placed where all worshipers must bow as they pass before it. The new castle was built, so the histories relate, on the ruins of the old one, erected by Henry II, in 1018, and rebuilt by Rufus, son of the Conqueror, in 1172. This circumstance gave the city its name of Newcastle. The old castle, though built of solid stone, with walls six feet thick, was almost totally destroyed. The present castle has a library containing many precious volumes, and some quaint, old chairs. The Antiquarian society holds its meetings here. We walked down the old stone steps, passing under the stone arches, where it is claimed Dick Turpin, the famous bandit, rode on horseback, and made his escape, going down and down through the stone openings to the mouth of the Tyne, where the river is now spanned by a handsome iron bridge. Our very successful conference, coming back to the purpose of our visit, was followed by a most interesting Priesthood meeting. Lunch was served in an upstairs hall to all who attended. The lunch was followed by a social, get-acquainted hour of genuine enjoyment. At two of the street meetings, held during the

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conference, the sisters spoke to the large gatherings in the Market Place. We paid a farewell visit to Jesmond Dene before we left Newcastle. Again we visited the waterfall and crossed over the stepping stones, but took another path that led among beds of beautiful flowers. Then, standing on the Lady Armstrong bridge, we gazed upwards to the castle. We crossed over, leaving Jesmond Dene hidden from our view, perhaps forever. Some of the Newcastle missionaries accompanied us by sea to Scotland. To those remaining we bade farewell "till we meet again in Zion."