People and Places in the Orient, IV. Shanghai, the Gateway to China

PEOPLE AND PLACES IN THE ORIENT. BY FRANK J. HEWLETT, DIRECTOR OF THE UTAH STATE FAIR AND PRESIDENT OF HEWLETT BROS. COMPANY.

IV.— SHANGHAI, THE GATEWAY TO CHINA. The second day out of Honolulu, we ran into what I would call a young typhoon. The way the tables fell over, dishes and glassware rattled, it was not necessary to read Jack London's Sea Stories to learn how it all happens. Racks were usea on the dining-room tables for two days to hold the dishes in place. Where most of the passengers disappeared to seemed a mystery, but I suppose the doctor and the stewardess alone were author- ized to find their hiding places. But the beauty of things in this world is that after the storm, sunshine always comes, and is

sweeter than ever. All large Pacific steamers are protected with amateur fire- and life-saving departments. At four o'clock the whistle blows, the bell rings, and the crew spring to their places at the fire hydrants. In a few moments a dozen streams of water are playing through the port-holes into the sea. The officers are stationed near, with pistols hung at their sides, and the way the Chinese crew scramble through their parts, inspires one with some hope of being saved if a fire should break out. The life-drill is practiced in case someone should fall over- board. Certain members of the crew are assigned to this duty. The life boats are lowered a few feet, life lines are thrown out, but after watching the performance, I came to the conclusion that dropping over-board for them to experiment on, was something not to be desired— that is, if I wished to see our City and County

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Building again. The Pacific is so large and the number of ships that sail on it so few that we did not have the pleasure of meeting any vessel after leaving Honolulu, until within a few miles of the Japan coast. There was a bright maid of ten summers on the boat, who was constantly asking questions. One day she said to the mate, " Won't you tell me how you find your way across so much water?" The officer replied with a smile, "We have all the waves

The Great Wall, China.

numbered." He noticed the look of disappointment pass over the child's face, and taking her on his knee he explained to her, while her face beamed with joy, the primary rules of sailing a big steamship. At daybreak we were on the upper deck watching the approach to the shores of the Mikado. First land looks good to us even though itbe a rugged coast. We soon enter the broad bay of Yeddo, where we catch the first glimpse of the sacred mountain of Fuji- yama,— white- capped, majestic, sublime in its grandeur. We were fortunate in obtaining a good view, for most of the time it is en-

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veloped in a maze. Fuji-yama reigns supreme as the peerless mountain of Japan. No picture seems to be perfect without it for a back ground. It has been depicted on china, screen and fan, written in song, story and verse, until it has become famous throughout the whole world. It dominates the landscapes, the sea, and the almost flat surrounding country. It is 12,365 feet in height, and appears even more imposing than it really is. An- nually thousands of pilgrims climb its steep sides in the hope of gaining spiritual favor and protection, which is one of the striking characteristics in connection with this Mecca of Japan. Next we see the artificial islands, with a strong for- tress, standing like sentinels to guard the Empire. Once more we were assembled in the dining room for inspec- tion. After a short delay the quarantine launch puffed alongside. The three Japan- ese officials, dressed in long, green coats elaborately orna- mented and with long swords at their sides, looked quite pompous. The passengers were carefully counted but they did not ask us to show The Loong War Pagoda in Shanghai. our tongues, nor did they even feel our pulses. was merely a formality, after our doctor It

had consulted with the head official. With a clean bill of health we enter the break- waters of Yokohama, and a few minutes later are in the launch, Relief, where we soon land at the Hato-ba. We have only twenty-four hours to spend in Yokohama and Tokyo, then the trip to China begins. Elder Elbert Thomas and his charming wife came to Yokohama to meet us. A few hours later we were seated in the comfortable Mission House in Tokyo. Elders

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Caine, of Salt Lake, Jensen, of Heber, Utah, and Harris, of Emmet, Idaho, were there to greet us. President Alma 0. Taylor had left a few days before for the Hok-kaido branch in company with Elder Hubbard. All are in the best of health, and enjoying their mission to its fullest extent. The parcels and love tokens safely delivered from the dear ones at home, a jinrikisha ride was taken which we especially enjoyed, as the cherry trees were in bloom. Then the last "sayonara," Good-bye, for a few weeks, were said. We cannot linger longer, for next morning our steamer is to continue her voyage. For the present let us pass by Shidzuoka, one of the great tea centers. Koyoto, the old capital of Japan, Osaka, the Pittsburgh of the Orient, Kobe, with her great harbor, the Inland Sea, with its thousands of Islands mostly green and beautiful. We reach Nagasaki. The port on our voyage will be Shanghai, China, the great cosmopolitan metropolis of the Orient. Only a day intervenes until the thick, muddy water of the Yellow Sea is seen, which is soon blended with the rich blue. It tells us

we are fast approaching the most mysterious and probably the oldest Empire in the world. A low, brown line on the water, dark lines of trees, we faintly discern in the distance, also a trail of steamers against the blank sky, that tell us we are nearing the great port. We are soon in sight of the splendid outside harbors, and the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang which looked attractive. In the early morning air, every thing stood out with clear distinct- ness. A fine launch, the Alexandra, met us at the Woosung Bar and we had a fine ride up the Whampoo River for eighteen miles to Shanghai. Mile after mile of ship yards, factories and wharfs line the river banks. Approached from the river, this largest foreign settlement of the Far East, the commercial capital of North China, presents an imposing appearance. Just before going ashore, a group of tourists, — some of them — had encircled the globe several times, were engaged in animated conversation. At times their talk was loud, but the gist of it all boiled down was, which were the two most cosmopolitan cities in the world? After more discussion, a dicision was rendered which was almost unanimous, and the honors, if they may be termed so, were awarded to Shanghai and Constantinople. The capital of Turkey we do not expect to visit so let us inquire into the merits

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of the case in regard to Shanghai. When it was made a treaty- port, concessions were granted to England, France, and the United States. The districts involved, although component parts of the city, are as distinct as if separated by miles of territory. Each has its own government, its own post office, and is under the juris- diction of its own mother country. The American post office, until this year, was the only one in existence outside of the United States and her territories, where a letter is sent for two cents,

from here to the United States, the same as one from Salt Lake

Separation of English and French Settlement, Shanghai, China.

City to Ogden or Murray. It makes one feel a thrill of home- sickness to see Uncle Sam's mail boxes in the hotel and on the street corners. A few minutes walk, rikisha, or wheel-barrow French settlement. Here the life, ride, will bring you into the glitter, and sparkle, reminded one instantly of Paris. Here you see the gendarme with red pants, dark-blue string cap and cape, a long sword at his side, and displaying as much dignity as if on parade in this native metropolis. Why go to London, when you can see a miniature in China? You can hear the sturdy busi-

I

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ness man of old England talking a dialect that is difficult to under- stand on first acquaintance. You see the children being trundled along the Bund in their perambulators. Their clothing is exactly the same style as if they had just come off the Strand or Picca- dilly Circus. A big policeman passed by with firm, steady tread. He is the courteous "bobby," with high helmet and black strap under the chin, and a short staff in his belt. After partaking of a light "tiffin," Lunch, at the hotel, which is known by the old familiar name, "Astor House," we engage our "jinrikisha" pulled

Custom House, Shanghai. China.

by half- naked strapping Chinese coolies. The "rikisha," as Amer- icans call it, is a huge baby carriage; some have rubber tires, and are comfortable to ride in, while others are clumsy, rickety affairs. Our "boys" are ignorant and understand only a few English words, but they can tell the time when you show them your watch. They are engaged by the hour, and you must have the exact change to pay them, when you conclude to dispense with their services; ex- plain the time served, and there will be no difficulty. Now for a trip along the Bund, which is about three miles long. Massive

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stone and brick buildings appear on one side, mostly occupied bv the consulates, large banking corporations, and offices of tbe various steamship companies. The other side is the harbor which is now literally covered with junks, their square sails spread with

bamboo, gilded ornaments of all color and description, large fierce- looking eyes painted on the bows so they may find their way in the dark. Sampans propelled by a stern oar were so thick at the edge that one could hardly see the water. All is bustle and confusion whether on land or water. Hundreds of "rikishas" dash by us»

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Shai Bund, Shanghai.

sometimes so close that there is danger of collision, but they dash to the left and miss us by room enough for a shadow to drop between the wheels. Scores of native barrows, with one large wheel, having rough seats built over it at either side for the ac- commodation of passengers, are being pushed by sweating, toiling men, who strain and totter as they strive to guide the clumsy ve- hicle. On one was five men and women of the poorer class, their feet curled under them on the seat, or resting in a loop of rope strung near the ground for the purpose. There are bales of cot-

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ton, sometimes six feet high, vegetables and fruits, and in one were four black pigs which grunted contentedly as they were be- ing wheeled along to market. But let us for a moment look at the commercial side of China. To begin with, in order that the exporters and manufacturers of the United States may partially understand the extent of the great and vast empire of China, and the unlimited possibilities of its trade for Uncle Sam, a few facts for consideration are neces-

sary. The Chinese empire covers an area of almost four million square miles, the circuit of the boundaries are 14,000 miles, the population of this empire is over four hundred and two millions, which is greater than that of Russia, Great Britain, Germany, France, Japan, and the United States combined. The above are all Chinese, with the exception of a few foreigners who are in business in the seaports of China, and the missionaries who are mostly in the interior. If every inhabitant bought a cents' worth of flour per day, our mills and wheat fields would be unable to supply the demand. Our trade in that line is constantly in- creasing, most of the flour being shipped here from the states of Washington and Oregon. It is noticeable that the Chinese are rapidly becoming liberal buyers and users of foreign goods, and the immense population will result in the creation of a mighty traffic. Germany and Great Britain are fiercelv competing for the trade, solely in the interest of their manufacturers, while we are sitting supinely by, being contented to control a large por- tion of the flour, cotton, and oil trade.What we need is agencies in every port, with live up-to-^ate salesmen, chuckfull of sunshine

and ginger, to spread our wonderful inventions through this vast Empire. The gigantic conflict of the Powers in the far East hav- ing ceased, all is now peace and good will. Not only China, Man- churia, Korea, Japan, and the Philippines, but, in short, the entire Orient have become the battleground of a peaceful and beneficial struggle between the commercial nations of the world to share in the trade and to develop the resources of these regions. The commercial organizations of Germany, France, Belgium, Great Britain, and all the other great trading nations of Europe are alive to the importance of securing an early and firm foothold in the Orient.