President Brigham Young's First Trip to Bear Lake Valley

PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG'S FIRST TRIP TO BEAR LAKE VALLEY. BY SOLOMON P. KIMBALL. [The following is a very interesting account of one of those frequent pioneer trips taken by President Brigham Young while engaged in the founding of settle- ments in these valleys of the mountains. It is doubly entertaining because written by a son of Heber C. Kimball, Brigham's right hand man. Solomon F. Kimball was at that time a lad of seventeen, and has a specially vivid recollection of the particular journey described herein. He states that the object of going so "early in the season was to comply with the wishes of Apostle C. C. Rich who ihai been chosen by Presidiat Yoaag to supervise the settling of Bear Lake Val- ley, and who was anxious that President Young should come early to aid him in selecting townsites, so that the settlers could get at their work of building and farming. The remarks accompanying, reported by Geo. D. Watt, taken from the Church records, and which here appear in print for the first time, were delivered by Presi- dent Young standing in an open wagon in front of President Rich's residence. They are characteristic of him. They show how he could change from the discussion of practical, common things to the expression of deep devotion and religious philos- ophy, almost in the same breath. His sermon gives the lie to the slanders so often repeated that he and his people were enemies to law and order, and that they pre- ferred ignorance to culture and education. Its counsels are as valuable to the Saints today as they were nearly half a century ago. As an instance in temporal affairs, witness that recent legislatures have appropriated thousands of dollars for the road from Bear Lake to Ogden Valley, and the citizens at both ends have enthusiastically joined with their means for the same purpose. In matters per- taining to the training and care of children, and the beautifying of home, it rings clear and true, today as then. — Editors.] The risinoj generation know but little of the. hardships endured in early days by the leading men of this Church, while they were helping the poor Saints to establish themselves in these valleys. In order to make plain to them at least one phase of this subject

PRESIDENT YOUNG'S TRIP TO BEAR LAKE VALLEY. 297 it will only be necessary to give a brief account of President Young and party's first visit to the Bear Lake country. On Monday morning, May 16, 1864, at 8:30 o'clock, this little company drove out of Salt Lake city on its journey. It consisted of six light vehicles and a baggage wagon, occupied by the following oersons: Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, John Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Joseph Young, Jesse W: Fox, Utah's surveyor. Professor Thomas Ellerbeck, George D Watt, reporter, and seven teamsters. They reached Franklin, Idaho, on the after- noon of the third day, and by that time had increased their num- ber to one hundred and fifty-tiree men, eighty-six of whom were riding in vehicles, the balance being picked men, mounted on good h:rses for assisting the company on the way. There were no houses between Franklin and Paris, Idaho, c:»nsequently the pro- gram was to drive directly through to Paris in one day if possible. The fourth morning they got an early start, and drove almost to Mink Creek without accident. Here Brother George A. Smith's carriage broke down, but as goid luck would have it, the brethren from Cache Valley had brought a light wagon clong in case of such an emergency. The company were soon on the way again, as though nothing had happened. They reached the foot of the big mountain which divi ies Cache Valley from Bear Lake Valley, and here is where the tug of war began. The mountain was so steep that all were compelled to walk except Apostle Smith who was so heavy that it would have been dangerous for him to undertake it, as he weighed not less than three hundred pounds. The mounted men so m had extra horses harnessed and hitched to singletrees, and President Young and others, who were too heavy to help themselves, took hold of these singletrees with both hands and were helped up the moun- tain in this way. Apostle Charles C. Rich and others, who had settled in the Bear Lake Valley the fall before, came to their assistance with all the ox teams that could be mustered. Several yokes were hitched to Brother George A. Smith's w igon, and he was hauled up the mountain, but before he reached the summit his wagon was so badly broken that he was compelled to abandon it. Everybody had a good laugh over the incident, it being the second vehicle

298 IMPROVEMENT ERA. broken down under his weight that day. With careful manage- ment under the supervision of President Young and council, the brethren managed to get him onto the largest saddle horse that could be found, and another start was made. The company descended the mountain on the Bear Lake side and soon reached the head of Pioneer Canyon, where they struck mud, mud, mud, and then some more mud. It had been raining all day and everybody was wet through to the skin, except those who were riding in covered vehicles. Four horses were hitched to President Young's carriage, and several yoke of oxen to the bag- gage wagon. The majority of those who were rid.ng in vehicles were compelled to walk on account of the trail being in such a fearful condition; and to see that presidential procession waddling through the deep mud was enough to make any living thing smile. It was the muddiest outfit ever seen in that part of the country. Professor Ellerbeck undertook to cross the creek on a pole, and slipped off into the mud and water, and was a sad looking sight after he had been pulled out. Many others passed through a similar experience that day. It was a case of every fellow for himself, som<^ going one way and some another, the majority of them taking to the sidehills. Several times President Young's horsos mired down to their sides, but with careful driving they got through all right. President Kimball, who was handling his own team this after- noon, undertook to drive around one of these bad places, and had not gone far when his horses struck a soft spot and sank almost out of sight in the mud. Here is where the mounted men were of service again. They soon had Brother Kimball's horses un- hitched from the carriage, and long ropes fastened around their necks. Then about thirty men got hold of the ropes and pulled the horses out bodily, dragging them several rods before they could get upon their feet. The carriage was then pulled out. President Young, who was in the lead, made another start, and had not gone far when one of the horsemen brought word that Brother George A. Smith's horse had given out, and that they were obliged to build a scaffold in order to get him onto another one. This amusing story caused the authorities to have another laughing spell at Brother Smith's expense.

PRESIDENT YOLNG'S TRIP TO BEAR LAKE VALLEY. 299 This canyon is about four miles long, and it was a mud hole from beginning to end. The party reached the mouth of it at nine o'clock at night, and remained there long enough to rest and feed their animals. It was a cold night and the men made bonfires to keep themselves warm and dry their clothing. About ten o'clock the company continued their journey. They drove down in the valley until they cams to a small stream called Canal Creek. It was so narrow and deep that they had to jump their horses across it, and then get their vehicles over the best way they could. They reached the city of Paris at 3 o'clock the next morning, but were unable to see it until they had reached the top of a small hill in the center of town. It consisted of thirty-four log huts with dirt roofs, but they looked good just the same. The Bear Lakers had caught a wagon load of beautiful trout in honor of the occasion, and had plenty of good fresh butter to fry them in; and what a feast the brethren did have after living on hope and mud for twenty-four hours! Sister Stocks and daughter did the cooking for the authorities, and it kept them busy as long as the party remained there. The next twenty four hours were spent in resting, as every- body was worn out; although Professor Ellerbeck took some scientific observations that day, probably the first that had ever been taken in that valley. The next day the company drove over to the lake, and spent several hours at a point where Fish Haven is now located. They returned to Paris that evening. The next day, being Sunday, they held an outdoor meeting in the fore- noon. The speakers were President Young, who delivered the accompanying remarks, and Elders Kimball, John Taylor and George A. Smith. Considerable merriment was afterwards had over the question of whether Brother Smith should return home with the company or remain at Paris until the mud had dried up. However,^ the deci- sion was that he return home with the company on conditi m that Brother Rich furnish ox teams to haul him through the mud, and to the summit of the mountain. This Elder Rich, who was the pioneer of Bear Lake Valley, consented to do, and at 3 p. m. the presidential party started for home. In the meantime, Canal

300 IMPRO VEMENT ERA. Creek had been bridged over, and 2:ood time was made through the valley. They reached the mouth of Pioneer Canyon at dark, and camped for the night. The next morning at 5 o'clock they continued their journey homeward. Brother Rich had more than kept his promise. He furnished two yoke of oxen for President Young's carriage, and four yoke for the baggage wagon, the latter being solely occupied by Brother George A. Smith, who had a smile on his countenance that made all who beheld it feel good through and through. These were the only vehicles drawn by ox teams. They foUoweil the road through the mud, while the lighter vehicles, drawn by horses, hugged the sidehills, which were so steep that the brethren had to lash poles to the carriage beds, and bear down on the upper end Of the poles to prevent the carriages from tipping over. This plan worked like a charm, and by nine o'clock the company had reached the summit of the mountain. Notwithstanding it rained hard all that day, the party reached Franklin about five o'clock that even- ing, and three days later they arrived home. They had been absent from home eleven days, and within that time had traveled four hundred miles, besides holding meetings at all the principal settlements along the route, both going and coming. They also selected several townsites. Not long after their return home, they started on another .lourney to St George, going via Pine Valley and returning via Toquerville. They left the main road here, and visited all settle- ments on the Rio Virgin river. They also visited the principal settlements of Sanpete Valley, and were gone from home about five weeks, and had traveled upwards of one thousand miles. President Young was heard to say that he had traveled that summer not less than three th:usand miles, and that this was a fair average of what had been traveled by himself and company during many other seasons. On one occasion they took boats along with them, in order to ferry such streams as the Snake and Salmon Rivers. REMARKS BY PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG, SUNDAY, 22nD MAY, 1864. At 10 a. m. a congregation collected opposite Elder Charles

PRESIDENT YOUNG'S TRIP TO BEAR LAKE VALLEY. 801 C. Rich's dwelling, at Paris, Bear Lake Valley. Singing. Prayer by Elder Wilford Woodruff, when President Brigham Young said: I do not design to preach, but merely to express my feelings in regard t* this valley. We find it to be a very excellent valley, as far as we can judge from present appearances. It is a fine place to settle and raise grain, to build houses, make farms, set out orchards, raise fruits and all the necessaries of life to make ourselves happy here as well as in other places. Elder Charles C. Rich, one of the Twelve Apostles, has been appointed to dictate the settlement of this valley. "We wish to have the brethren abide his counsel, and if he needs instructions he will receive them from the proper source. We wish to see the brethren willing and obedient, for the Lord will have a people of this description, and if we are not prepared to build up his kingdom in the way he has devised, otheri will be called in who will do it. If we are willing to do this, we will commence at home to cultivate our own minds, and govern our actions before each other, and before heaven; if we do not do this our labors to build up the kingdom of God will be of little service. Self-culture should be as strenuously attended to in this valley as at the central point of the gathering of the Saints. There are many advantages in this country, and we shall extend our set- tlements up and down the shores of this beautiful lake of water. I suppose we must be some seyenty-five to one hundred miles nearer to the South Pass than Salt Lake City is. Our emigration, destined for this valley, will come at once to this point, and probably many will come in this season. This settlement is near the central point of this valley. I might just as well call this the central point, as on the other side of the river we have the farming, meadow and pasture lands, and numerous facilities that perhaps cannot be found in such abundance on the other side of the river for the support of a great city. I understand the legislature has named this settlement Paris, and I am satisfied with the name. The place south of this, about seven miles, I propose to call St. Charles, and it would suit me to have the county seat there. The business of the valley will be done at St. Charles whether Brother Rich lives here or there, or whether the High Council is held here or there. [It was then unanimously voted that the settle- ment be called St. Charles.] The city, town, or village that will be built there, I request the people to build on the south side of the creek. Brother Rich was d esirous I should give a name for the creek ; you may call it big water, tall water, large water, big creek, or pleasant water, or rich water. The people here need a surveyor. We have young men who can learn in one week to survey this valley sufiiciently accurate to be agreeable to all parties, and assure every purpose that can be desired. As to whether we are in Utah Territory or Idaho Ten-itory, I think we are now in Idaho. I have no doubt of it, and the greater part of those who settle in this valley will be in that terri- tory; the snow lies too low on the mountains here for Utah. Let me here offer a caution to you Latter-day S'lints. Men will hunt for your stock. Brethren have come here who have been asked to come, and some have fled from the influence of rule and good order, and when they find it here.

302 IMPROVEMENT ERA. they will probably want to go to some other place where they expect to be exempt from paying taxes or tithing and be from under the influence of a bishop, and where, if they should take a notion to shade a beef creature it will not be known. We should learn that we cannot live in safety without law. There is no being in the heavens that is able to live and endure without law; it is the purity of the law that preserves the heavenly hosts, and they strictly abide it. I know what those people are here for, and their object, if any, has been to come to this valley for an impure purpose. You will know it, and if they are not here yet, they will come and settle on your borders from Franklin, Weber, Box Elder, and other places, and they will branch out and want to get beyond everybody else, and if there is any beef upon the range they will want to have the privilege of butcher" ing it, and of using it up. Every good person wants to live under the protection of law and order. I wish to say to the heads of families, here or elsewhere, be sure to have your prayers morning and evening. If you forget your prayers this morning you will forget them tonight, veiy likely, and if you cease to pray you will be very apt to forget God. A true-hearted Saint loves to pray before his family, and he loves to have it known his heart is for God, and he is not afraid if all the world knows it. Build mills to faciliate the building up of your towns and settlements, and let there be no selfish monopoly in this. Let the brethren not burn away any of the timber that will make lumber, but bring it down to your mills and saw it up for your fences, to build your houses, and make mproveraents of the best kind. My opinion is that the adobe is the best building material, if it can be well protected from moisture, which is an easy matter when plenty of lumber is to be had; and when they have stood one year, they are prepared to stand five hundred years as well as not. When you build your permanent dwellings, build nice, commodious habitations, and make your improvements as fast as you can. When you have gotten your crops in this season, and find a little leisure time, turn your attention to fixing a road from here to Ogden Valley, which will save fifty miles, that ia the true route to go, and fix your roads as speedily as possible. When you form your settlements, get together pretty close, let there be at least ten families on ten acres of ground. When you start to build upon a block, ' (Brother Charles C. Rich, please remember this), have the brethren build upon the block until every lot is occupied before you touch another. Then if you should be attacked by Indians, one scream will arouse the whole block. Get out these beautiful poles to fence with. I see no cedar here, but there is red quakingasp, and it is as good as any red pine we have for posts. This we have proved to our own satisfaction. Make your fences strong and high at once, for to commence a fence with three poles, it teaches your cows and other stock to be breachy. They learn to jump a three-pole fence. You add another pole, and that is soon mas- tered ; you add another, and they will try that. Thus stock is trained to leap fences which would otherwise be sufficient to turn them. I say again, with regard to saw-mills, get every man who can to build a saw- mill, for, boards the proper width and thickness make the cheapest fence you can ttave. Make your improvemants, and do all you can.