Scenery and Customs of Japan

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SCENERY AND CUSTOMS OF JAPAN.

BY ELDER SANDFORD WELLS HEDGES, OF THE JAPANESE MISSION.

[Sandford W. Hedges, a typical Utah boy, the son of William S. and Clara Wells Hedges, and a grandson of the late President Daniel H. Wells, and Louisa Free, was born in Salt Lake City, August 21, 1883, and re- ceived the common school education. In mutual improvement, Sunday school and ward affairs of the Eleventh ward, where his parents re- side, he has always taken a living interest. When President Heber J. Grant returned to Japan, in the summer of 1902, Elder Hedges was one ef the four young missionaries who accompanied him. Editors.]

Here we are, June 16, 1903, in Nagano, my new field of labor. This hotel, Gorneikwen, is the best one I have lived in. The food is good and the beds are fine. The building has four stories and over one hundred rooms. It puts the ones in Tokio right in the shade. I arrived here last Monday with Brother Caine, and you may know that I am very happy, for Fred and I are great friends. Our room is large and home-like. The city of Nagano, two hundred miles northwest of Tokio, is very large, having a population of forty thousand people, and is the great stronghold of Buddhism, and we have hard times to start a conversation. It is in the mountains, in the interior of the country, and the valley around greatly resembles Cache valley, in Utah. Last Thursday, Brother Featherstone and I left Funakata to go into Tokio; the sky was clear, but a hard wind was blowing, thus causing the waves to roll high. We got on ship at 8 o'clock, and the first thing we did was to lay down, and in this position we remained until we reached Tokio, and thus avoided a case of sea sickness. At 2:30 p.m. we left the boat, and, as our landing, place was near the Hotel Metropole, we went there to get our hair cut. By the time this was over and we arrived home, it was after 4 o'clock. Ten minutes bafore we got to headquarters, the four

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other elders had arrived, so you can imagine what a pleasant greeting we all had. We were made entirely welcome by Brother Grant and all the others at headquarters, and the time will ever remain fresh in my memory. A smile of greeting was on every face, and each heart was overwhelmed with gladness. was considerably tanned, but felt as jolly and talkative as I

ever. The remainder of the day was happily spent in visiting, and reading some mail which I had received from home. Saturday afternoon we boys visited our friends around Tokio, and had a fine time. Sunday we had three meetings in our Sunday school, where all spoke of past blessings, and a fine time was spent. Directly after Sunday school, we held a short meeting, gave our reports, and talked of future events. In this last meeting, we returned elders spoke in the Japanese tongue. Monday morning Elders Jarvis, Stoker, Caine and I left for our new fields of labor. Our ride was through beautiful fields and over mountains. Going over one high mountain, we were pushed up by an engine that had cog wheels on it, and we passed through twenty-six tunnels, one right after the other, sometimes one end of the train was in a tunnel before the other end was out of the previous one. After passing through the last tunnel, an active volcano greeted us. Smoke was coming out of the mountain, making a pretty sight. It made chills run over me, for I thought

"what if it should happen to go off?" It is always smoking and throwing out cinders, but no rocks or lava. It was an imposing

sight, and one that I will long remember. It is called Asamayama

volcano, and is over eight thousand feet high. At 6 o'clock we arrived at Nagano. Tuesday we started upon our new work. I feel just as happy here as I did in Funa- kata, and think I will like my new field. From here, most likely, I will go to Naoyetsn, and stay there, perhaps.

Fred and I left our room today at 9 o'clock, and after two hours of brisk walking we stopped at a small village and began to work. We found people at first willing to listen to us and to accept our tracts, but in a few moments this kind feeling changed into bitter contempt for us. People then refused to accept our tracts, and would not give ear to one single word. At one house, the door was slammed so quickly in my face that I did not know

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-what struck me. I did indeed feel very queer. We kept on with our work, and soon the people changed again and gave us a hearty welcome. At one place, I saw a man making a mat, in his yard, and, as he smiled at me, I lost no time in getting near him. In my anxiety to tell him something of our religion, I forgot to say "hello" to him, until I told him what my work was. He was a very attentive listener, and I had a splendid talk with him on the existence of God, which he enjoyed very much. After thanking him for his kind attention, I bade him "sayanara," or goodbye., I walked, then, up the street, a few paces, when I entered a store, and I was soon perched upon some sacks of rice, giving three people a talk. They listened attentively to what I had to say. Many strange feelings present themselves to me in my walks, and I manage to make the best of each opportunity. This one day, Fred and I walked over sixteen miles, had several conversations, and distributed many tracts. If I should tell you of my every-day doing, it might become tiresome to you; but this I can say, that each day is full of happiness to me in my labors. As I have said before, Nagano is the stronghold of Buddha, and the people are very peculiar in regard to Christianity. Here in Nagano is the temple of Zenkoii, which is estimated to be be- tween nine hundred and one thousand years old. Large numbers of people come to it to worship, and especially the old people, who expect to solicit aid from Buddha in their old age. One day's worship at the temple is sufficient to convey the departing spirit to the place where all is joy. Upon leaving the Gorneikwen, our present place of living, and turning to the left, we see the head of the street upon which

the temple stands. In a few minutes of walking, we are in front of the large gates. These gates are massive, and represent the style of architecture of long ago. Usually, in both ends of similar gates in Japan, can be seen two images, but in this one, none are present. The large projecting eaves are indeed a study, for one would think a heavy windstorm would surely carry them away. The roof is covered with tiles similar to those on Mr. McCune's residence, in Salt Lake. The carvings on these gates are very good, and although the carved pieces are not what might be termed beautiful, or even pretty, they represent the work of ages

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gone by, and give to this present age a glimpse of old work. One cannot help but praise and admire the work, even though the object itself is not pleasing to the eye. Going from this gate to the temple, you walk along a paved street, while on either side are small stands, greatly resembling those erected by children at home, in the summer time, for sell- ing lemonade to passers by. It reminds one greatly of this, but here aged men and women are selling things. Under the canvas covering of these stands, can be purchased peas or beans, to throw to the waiting pigeons which, by the way, often remind me of my pets I used to have at home. I should say there are hundreds of these pigeons living in and around this temple. Not only do they live and have their clean (?) nests on the eaves and projecting timbers on the outside of the building, but behind pictures, on large lanterns, and in every nook and corner of the temple can be heard the gentle coo of the young ones. When a picture is shown you of one of these temples, all colored up and presenting a fine view, you no doubt would sayr "How beautiful and grand must be the original!" But you must not imagine any such thing, for when the original is before you, you dislike to touch it, for it is so very dirty. All the wood has become old with age, and looks as if it had passed through many interesting times during its existence. Upon entering the temple, the first thing to attract one's attention is a very large metal pot, used and made for incense- burning. It was given to the temple by a rich man, and I have been told that no religious desires prompted him, but fame and praise from his fellow-men undoubtedly instigated his actions in landing the big pot in the temple. It is too large to be used, and is becoming dirtier every day, for many pigeons live about

it. Turning to your left you next see many swords, cannon balls, and curious armor used by the Chinese, but captured from them by the Japanese in their recent trouble. They are interest- ing because of their oddity. Next in line, enclosed in a cab- inet, is a god who is worshiped day by day.

Now we are in front of the gods who represent Buddah. A rail has been put up here, and two large boxes placed so that the devout worshipers may hand in their amounts. Sep-