Brigham Young as Seen in 1860

Brigham Young as Seen in 1860 By Preston Nibley Towards the dose of day, on August 25, 1860, there might have been seen, emerging from the mouth of Emigration canyon and following the dusty road across the bench into Salt Lake City, the Overland Stage, completing the last few miles of its long and arduous trip across the plains from its starting point at St. Joseph, Missouri. By frequent change of horses, and by pur¬ suing the journey from early morning until late at night, this par¬ ticular stage had completed 1,136 miles in nineteen days. Among the weary passengers who glanced eagerly ahead for a first view of the “City of the Saints,’’ was one Richard F. Burton, 39 years of age, captain in the English Army, fellow and gold medalist of the Royal Geographical Society, and one of the most renowned travelers of his day. The first Englishman to make the pilgrimage to Mecca, the first to penetrate the lake regions of Cen¬ tral Africa, he had now arrived in Salt Lake valley, to see and write a book about “the ‘Mormons,’ and their Kingdom.’’ As I write I have this volume before me, a book of more than five hundred pages, written in a hasty, rather careless manner, and filled with many ill-timed personal comments, but a true book withal, and, I think, the very best account of Salt Lake City we have from a non-“Mormon’’ in those early days. More than sixty-seven years have passed since Captain Burton rode into town on that August afternoon, and a second generation has come on the scene, to whom those early days are, we might say, lost and unknown. It might not be amiss, therefore, to pause for a moment and glance back at the life of our people as Captain Burton saw it, making due allowance always that he did not and could not see truly into conditions as we know them to have been. There were many plans formulated and executed in this valley in 1860, by President Brigham Young and his associates, of which Captain Burton never dreamed. The eye of the traveler could see, and the hand could record, but the heart and the mind could not understand. What burned in the souls of the pioneers as they trudged wearily into this valley, and sought to establish themselves here? Who can describe it? But to our story — relating the events of his entrance into the valley on that August afternoon. Captain Burton writes: "In due time, emerging from the gates and portal and deep serrations of the upper course, we descended into a lower level. Emigration Canyon gradually bulges out

"The Prophet’s Block,” Salt Lake City As viewed in September, 1860 and its steep slopes of grass and fern, shrubbery and stunted brush, fall imperceptibly into the plain. The valley presently lay full before our sight. * * * lime and the beautiful were present in contrast. Switzerland and Italy lay side by side. * * * 'X'jie hour was about 6 p. m.; the atmosphere was touched with a dreamy haze, as it generally is in the vicinity of the lake; a little bank of rose-colored clouds, edged with flames of purple and gold, floated in the upper air, while the mellow radiance of an American autumn, that bright interlude between the extremes of heat and cold, diffused its mild, soft lustre over the face of earth.” There is a picture of our beautiful valley that has hardly been excelled to this day. And again: “In some parts, the valley was green: in others, where the hot sun shot its oblique beams, it was of a tawny yellowish-red, like the sands of the Arabian desert, with scatters of trees, where the Jordan of the West rolls its opaline waves through pasture lands of dried grass dotted with flocks and herds, and fields of ripening yellow corn. Everything bears the impress of handiwork, from the bleak benches behind to what was once a barren valley in front. Truly the ‘Mormon’ prophecy has been fulfilled: already the howling wilderness^ — in which twelve years ago a few miserable savages, the half-naked Digger Indians, gathered their grass seed, grasshoppers, and black crickets to keep life and soul together, and awoke with their war cries the echo of the mountains; and the bear, the wolf and the fox prowled over the site of a now populous city — has blossomed like the rose.” Jogging along in the rolling and jolting stage, our captain soon had his first vie'w of the city, -which he estimated to have a popula¬ tion of “between nine and twelve thousand souls.” “The city revealed itself as we approached, from behind its screen, the inclined terraces of the upper table-land, and at last it lay stretched before us as upon a map.

BRIGHAM YOUNG AS SEEN IN 1860 653 At a little distance the aspect was somewhat Oriental. None of the buildings except the Prophet’s house were whitewashed. The material — the thick, sun-dried adobe, common to all parts of the Eastern world, — was of a dull leaden blue, deepened by the atmosphere to a gray, like the shingles of the roofs. The numbers of gardens and compounds, the dark clumps and lines of bitter cottonwood, locust or acacia, poplars and fruit trees, apples, peaches and vines — how lovely they appeared after the baldness of the prairies! — and finally the fields of long-eared maize and sweet sorghum strength¬ ened the similarity to an Asiatic rather than to an American settlement. The differ¬ ences presently became as salient. The farm houses with their stacks and stock strongly suggested the Old Country. Moreover, domes and minarets — even churches and steeples — were wholly wanting, an omission that somewhat surprised me. The only build¬ ing conspicuous from afar was the block occupied by the present head of the Church. The courthouse, with its tinned Muscovian dome, at the west end of the city: the arsenal, a barn-like structure on a bench below Ensign Peak, and a saw-mill built beyond the southern boundary, were the next in importance.” So much then for the first impressions of our alert and in¬ quisitive captain. As the stage descended the last hill and rolled into the city there is this, which one might reasonably expect, “I looked in vain for the out-house harems, in which certain romances concerning things ‘Mormons’ had informed me that wives are kept, like any other stock.” No, my good friends, wives were not kept in that fashion, as you will soon learn. ‘‘I presently found this but one of a multitude of delusions. Upon the whole, the ‘Mor¬ mon’ settlement was a vast improvement upon its contemporaries in the valleys of the Mississippi and Missouri.” Turning suddenly to the right, the stage entered ‘‘the main thoroughfare, the center of population,” and drew up before a hotel, the ‘‘only establishment of the kind in New Zion,” the Salt Lake House, ‘‘a two-storied, pent-roofed building,” where our captain was to make his headquarters during his twenty-four-day visit in the city. The hotel he found to be comfortable and convenient ‘‘despite the closeness of the atmosphere,” the swarms of ‘‘emi¬ gration flies,” and a certain ‘‘populousness of bedstead.” So then, the traveling captain is at last set down in Salt Lake City, the place which he has come so far to see, and from which wild and speculative rumors have gone around the world. On the morrow he will walk about a little and try to get a look at these “Mormons” and what they have accomplished. Perhaps, too, if he is lucky, he will get an interview with “Mr. Brigham Young”. It is this man, more than all others, about whom he is curious. Bright and early the following morning he began to walk about the city. "I was surprised to find that every meridinal street is traversed on both sides by a streamlet of limpid water — supplied from City Creek, Red Butte and other canyons lying north and east of the settlement.” Main street, he observed, was 132 feet wide, "including the sidewalks, which are each twenty, and like the rest of the principal avenues is planted with locust and other trees.”

654 IMPROVEMENT ERA On the temple block Captain Burton was disappointed in finding that the temple was only “a hole in the ground,” and he doubted that it would ever be completed. Little did this man realize the hardships of our people in locating in this valley, and the long years of sacrifice and patient toil it took to erect the mag¬ nificent “Mormon” temple. To our visitor the task looked hopeless. The afternoon he spent with Governor and Mrs. Alfred Gum¬ ming, at their commodious house on North Temple street. One would like to know the conversation that went on between these two gentlemen regarding President Young and our people. There is not much said, except in praise of Governor Cumming’s “scrupu¬ lous and conscientious impartiality,” and his resolution to treat Saints and Gentiles alike. Monday morning, in company with Elder T. B. Stenhouse, the captain started out for what is now Fort Douglas reserve, to witness the arrival of a group of hand-cart pioneers. He graphically describes the event as follows; ‘‘As we issued from the city we saw the smoke-like column which announced the emigrants were crossing the bench land; and people were hurrying from all sides to greet and get news of friends. Presently the carts came. All the new arrivals were in clean clothes, the men washed and shaved, and the girls, who were singing hymns, habited in Sunday dresses. The company was sunburned, but looked well and thoroughly happy, and few, except the very young and the very old, who suffer most on such journeys, troubled the wains.” Mingling in the crowds as the new-comers were greeted by their friends. Captain Burton comments on the dress of the women; “A sun-bonnet is here universally used, with the difference how¬ ever, that the ‘Mormons’ provide it with a long, thick veil behind, which acts like a cape or shawl.” And then there is this very pretty compliment; “I could not but observe in those born hereabouts the noble, regular features, the lofty, thoughtful brow, the clear, transparent complexion, the long, silky hair, and, greatest charm of all, the soft smile of the American woman when she does smile.” During the afternoon a visit was made to City Creek, or “Northern Kanyon,” as our author calls it, also, to the “Thermal Springs,” north of the city, which have come down in history as the “Warm Springs.” And now, as the fifth day of Captain Burton’s visit to Salt Lake rolled around, there came this little note to Governor Alfred Gumming in response to one of his own requesting that he might call on President Brigham Young and bring with him the distin¬ guished visitor; Great Salt Lake City, Aug. 30, 1860. Governor A. Gumming, Sir: In reply to your note of the 29th inst., I embrace the earliest opportunity

The Salt Lake House Where Captain Burton stayed while visiting in the "City of the Saints," September, 1860 since my return to inform you that it will be agreeable to me to meet the gentle¬ man you mention in my office at 11 a. m., tomorrow, the 31st. Brigham Young. The day following, Captain Burton and Governor Gumming were promptly on hand, and we can thank the Captain for this most excellent look at President Young. He is here in life to us, our great President, — Utah's most distinguished man. I am inclined to think that the portrait is as clear as the Captain could make it: “I met Governor Gumming in Main street, and we proceeded together to our visit. After a slight scrutiny, we passed the guard — which is dressed in plain clothes, and to the eye unarmed — and walking down the veranda, entered the Prophet’s private office. Several people who were sitting there rose at Mr. Cumm^ng’s entrace. At a few words of introduction, Mr. Brigham Young advanced, shook hands with complete simplicity of manner, asked me to be seated on a sofa at one side of the room, and presented me to those present. * ♦ * “The Prophet was born at Whittingham, Vermont, on the 1st day of June, 1801 ; he was consequently, in 1860, fifty-nine years of age; he looks about forty-five. I had expected to see a venerable looking old man. Scarcely a gray thread appears in his hair, which is parted on the side, light colored, rather thick, and reaches below the ears with a half curl. He formerly wore it long, after the western style; now it is cut level with the ear lobes. * ♦ + The eyes are between gray and blue, with a calm, composed, and somewhat reserved expression: a slight droop in the left lid made me think he had suffered from paralysis; I afterwards heard that the ptosis is the result of neuralgia which has long tormented him. For this reason he usually covers his head, except in his own house or in the Tabernacle. * * * The nose, which is fine and somewhat sharply pointed, is bent a little to the left. The lips are close, like the New Englander’s, and the teeth, especially those of the under jaw, are imperfect. The cheeks are rather fleshy, and the line between the alae of the nose and the mouth is broken; the chin is somewhat peaked, and the face clean shaven.

656 IMPROVEMENT ERA except under the jaws, where the beard is allowed to grow. The hands are well made, and not disfigured by rings. The figure is large, broad-shouldered, and stooping a little when standing. “The Prophet’s dress was neat and plain as a Quakers, all gray homespun, except the cravat and waistcoat. His coat was of antique cut, and, like the pantaloons, baggy, and the buttons were black. A neck-tie of dark silk, with a large bow, was loosely passed around a starchless collar, which turned down of its own accord. The waist¬ coat was of black satin — once an article of almost national dress — single-breasted, and buttoned nearly to the neck, and a plain gold chain was passed into the pocket. The boots were Wellingtons, apparently of American make.” That constitutes the appearance of President Brigham Young to Captain Burton’s eye. Again we thank him for having left this portrait to us. Nothing can be of greater interest in early Utah history than the doings, sayings and appearance of this great man, the chief character in it. There are a few things here mentioned especially worthy of note; that clear, steady eye of his, and calm expression of face; the “close” lips. Not a darting, quick-glancing eye, but used to fixed, steady gaze, piercing past the appearance and into the soul of things. The calm, composed expression of the face, indicating that this man was well acquainted with the battle of life, its defeats and its victories, and that he trusted completely in his Maker that the ultimate outcome would be right. The “close” lips, showing determination — -to continue doing his duty to the last breath of his life. Continuing, Captain Burton comments: "Altogether the Prophet’s appearance was that of a gentleman farmer in New England. * * * He is a well preserved man. * * * manner is at once affable and impressive, simple and courteous. * * * He shows no signs of dog¬ matism, bigotry, or fanaticism, and never once entered — with me at least — on the subject of religion. * * * He impresses the stranger with a certain sense of power. * ♦ * pjig temper is even and placid. * * * j-jfg powers of ob¬ servation are intuitively strong, and his friends declare him to be gifted with an excellent memory, and a perfect judgment of character. * * * His life is ascetic. His favorite food is baked potatoes with a little buttermilk, and his drink, water. ’* * * Finally, there is a total absence of pretension in his manner, and he has been so long used to power that he cares nothing for its display.” Here we take leave of “Brother Brigham” as he stood before the world on August 31,1 860. It will do us good to return to him, time and again. Leaving the President’s office and walking toward Main street. Captain Burton noted: "On the extreme west of this block, backed by a pound for estrays, which is no longer used, lies the Tithing House and Deseret Store, a long, narrow, upper-storied building, with cellars, store-rooms, receiving rooms, pay rooms and writing offices. At this time of the year it chiefly contains linseed and rags for paper making: after the harvest it is well stuffed with grains and cereals, which are taken instead of money payment.” And now there is one item that has more than particular interest

BRIGHAM YOUNG AS SEEN IN 1860 657 to me and which I trust I may be pardoned for including in this account. The Captain 'remarks that on the evening of the third of September, “while sauntering about the square,” he became interested “in a train of twenty-three wagons which had just bivouacked.” These were immigrants under the command of Captain Charles E. Ross, and they had just arrived in the valley that day. Playing about one of the wagons, or perhaps climbing in and out of it, re¬ joicing with the others at the termination of the long journey, and looking with wonderment at the strange scenes about him, clad only in a shirt and pair of trousers, which his mother had made him out of an old tent, was a little barefoot lad, eleven years of age. It was my honored father. President Charles W. Nibley, who, with his poor emigrant parents, brothers and sisters, had traveled all the way from Scotland to this New Zion in the wilderness. What the family possessed, with the exception of their oxen, was in their prairie wagon. The father had been a coal miner and had saved for years to obtain means sufficient for the long journey. Now they had arrived in the valley and their lot was to be cast with the Saints. They thought their difficulties were over, but, as subsequent events proved, they were only just beginning. On the same day. Captain Burton made a trip to Sugar House with “Mr. John Taylor.” "He pointed out to me on the left the mouths of the several canyons, and in¬ formed me that the City Creek and Red Butte on the northeast, and the Emigration. Parley’s, Mill Creek, Great Cottonwood and Little Cottonwood canyons to the east and southeast, all head together in two points, thus enabling troops and provisions to be easily and readily concentrated for the defense of the eastern approaches. When talking about the probability of gold digging being developed near Great Salt Lake City, he said that the ‘Mormons’ are aware of that, but that they look upon agriculture as their real wealth. "Returning, we visited the garden of Apostle Woodruff, who introduced us to his wife, and showed us work of which he had reason to be proud. Despite the hard, ungrateful soil which had required irrigation for the last ten years, there were apricots from Malta, the Hooker strawberries, here worth $5 the plant, plum trees from Kew Gardens, French and California grapes, wild plum and buffalo berry, currants, peaches and apples: — with which last we were hospitably loaded in numbers.’’ From the 3rd until the 19th of September, Captain Burton made side trips to Brighton, in Big Cottonwood canyon. Camp Floyd in Cedar valley, and to Black Rock where he enjoyed a swim in the lake. On the 20th he climbed into a “buck-board” and, ac¬ companied by “Judge Flennikin, who had been transferred to Carson valley,” set out overland for California. “The day was fine and wondrous clear, affording us a splendid back view of the happy valley, before it was finally shut out from sight, and the Utah Lake looked a very gem of beauty, a diamond in its setting of steely blue mountains.”