The Great Northwest

THE GREAT NORTHWEST By Orson F. Whitney. The Northwestern States mission comprises practically all of the states of Oregon and Washington, parts of Idaho and Montana, and portions of British Columbia. The headquarters are at Portland, Oregon. There the Church has a handsome chapel and mission house, and in that city and throughout the mission about ninety missionaries of both sexes are performing the sacred duties assigned to them. Thriving branches of the Church are to be found in Portland, Tacoma, Seattle, Bellingham, Vancouver, Spokane, Allendale, Great Falls, Cas- cade, Anaconda and Butte. In some places there are only Sunday School and M. I. A. organizations. Never, before my recent visit to that part, had I been north of Portland, and from what I had heard and read had formed no adequate idea of the country that lies beyond. It is a glorious region, a choice part of a land "choice above all other lands," and I count myself fortunate in having viewed it under the most favorable con- ditions. I was gone from home just one month — July 3 to August 3 — and from the beginning to the end of the tour, which I under- took by appointment, the weather, with the exception of a few days, was delightfully cool, scarcely a cloud flecking the blue sunlit sky. An additional feature of enjoyment was the genial companionship of an old-time friend, Elder Brigham S. Young, the capable and zealous president of the Northwestern States mission. I reached the Rose City (Portland's charming soubriquet) on the evening of "the glorious Fourth," and next day, the Sabbath, addressed two well-attended meetings at the Madison Street chapel. Monday morning, in company with President Young, his wife and son (our efficient chauffeur) , I sped out to Hood River, along the Columbia River Highway, one of the grandest driveways in the world. I have never seen anything of the kind to surpass it, on either side of the Atlantic. It extends up the south side of the Columbia River as far as "The Dalles," where Portland-bound tourists often leave the railroad and take to the boats plying between that point and the City of Roses. In going to Hood River we covered seventy miles of the High- way, then circled Mount Hood, and returned by way of the newly- opened "Loop" to Portland. Going and coming we traversed a most picturesque region — a smooth, hard-surface road, winding in and out along the river shore or through rugged canyons, walled by pre- cipitous cliffs or pine-clad mountains, with here and there a snow- crowned peak lifting its head heavenward, while far below yawned

10 IMPROVEMENT ERA almost bottomless chasms, choked with remnants of "the forest pri- meval." Wondrously beautiful, fearfully grand — such was the char- acter of the scenery that we gazed upon for hours, as the vehicle in which we rode threaded its precarious way through the rocky fastnesses. At one point in the journey an amusing incident occurred. We were stopped by a State highway officer, who politely informed us of some repairs in progress a few miles ahead. We thanked him for his courtesy, and President Young, having in mind a highwayman of another sort, remarked facetiously: "We are glad to find it is not a hold-up." The officer glanced at me and said smilingly: "Is he sober?" The President was — for a moment, and then laughed as heartily as the rest. But this was not a sight-seeing junket. I was to speak in Hood River that night, and did so, our meeting being held in the Carnegie Library Hall, secured for our use by the local presiding elder. The audience that assembled to greet us was clearly discernible by the naked eye, but the hall was not crowded to suffocation. Doubtless the attendance would have been larger, but for a counter attraction presented by the Chautauqua, which regaled its patrons, upon tickets sold in advance, with a comic opera, "The Mikado," which came near proving a "Lord High Executioner" to our humble gathering. Leaving Portland and the state of Oregon, our route now lay to the north. A number of meetings were held en route, the principal one at Olympia, the Washington state capital. Sunday, the 12th, found us in Tacoma, where the commodious chapel of the Saints was filled that evening with eager listeners, many of whom, including non- members of the Church, came forward at the close and expressed much gratification at what they had heard. While in Tacoma we were shown the town by E. W. Wheelan. Jr., a plaster contractor and the owner and driver of a car with speed- ing powers that made our brief stay literally multum in patvo. Brother Wheelan related the following incident. He had taken a contract to plaster the new Jewish synagogue at Tacoma, and overlooking the fact that Saturday is the Jewish Sabbath, he set his men to work that day as usual. They had scarcely begun when the whole Hebrew population arose, indignantly protesting against this "defilement of their temple." Marching en masse to the scene of the innocent because unintentional desecration, they demanded that the work cease. Some of the workmen, not wishing to lose their time, demurred to this demand, whereupon their mortar was thrown out and they were threatened and hustled until they were glad to give way. As a lesson on Sabbath- breaking, the incident had for us all the merit and charm of novelty. Another Tacoma episode was a chance meeting with a gentleman whom I had previously met in Salt Lake City, but who was then a

THE GREAT NORTHWEST 11 resident of Portland. In the course of our conversation he remarked: "I wish to say, that while I am a Baptist in religion, as my ancestors have been for a hundred years, I verily believe that Joseph Smith was a prophet of God." He added that the whole westward movement of the "Mormon" people was to him "a prophecy." At Tacoma the tourist gets a fine view of snow-capped Mount Rainier — but he must not call it that until he has left town and is well on his way to Seattle. Mount Tacoma is the approved title at the former place. It gets Rainier as you go north, and woe betide the forgetful wight who then refers to it as Mount Tacoma. As it was in the days of Noah (when it got rainier still) , forty days of dampness, or of decided coolness, is sure to be his portion. A delightful boat ride up Puget Sound brought us to Seattle, a city that I had long desired to see. Throned on mountain and wave, this beautiful and rapidly growing metropolis exceeded all my antici- pations concerning it. Continuing our journey by trolley and motor coach, we arrived on the evening of the 13th at Bellingham, where resides my daughter Helen, wife of J. W. Timpson, manager of the Utah-Idaho sugar factory in course of construction at that place. It was Wednesday, the 15 th, when I first set foot upon the soil of British Columbia. Our visiting party included also President Young and Manager Timpson and wife, by whose courtesy we took the trip by automobile to Vancouver. Two hours sufficed for the journey from Bellingham to the metropolis of western Canada. In British Cotumbia We arrived there about noon-day, to find the city thronged with people from adjacent towns and villages, intent upon catching a glimpse of Field Marshal Earl Haig, Britain's hero of the Great War, who was touring the Canadian provinces in the interest of a new organi- zation of war veterans, to be known as "The British Empire Service League." The civic authorities were giving the Earl and his countess a banquet at the Hotel Vancouver, as we rode into town. We did not see them, nor did they seem to be aware of our presence. 3ut, as the old darkey minister said, "Bressed am dey what expecks noffin,' for dey shan't be disappinted." The Earl may have learned of our arrival later, for he left by special train for the east the same evening. His train, by the way, was manned entirely by ex-war veterans. That night I spoke in the Odd Fellows Hall, to a "goodish" con- gregation, mostly non-members of our Church. After dismissal a middle-aged man, sandy-haired, red-faced, and of rather belligerent aspect, approached and accosted me: "Did you intend to irritate your audience?" he inquired. "Certainly not," I replied.

12 IMPROVEMENT ERA "Well, you did," was his blunt rejoinder. "We came to hear some- thing about Mormonism, but you gave us the history of the United States." "My friend," said I, "I gave you nothing but 'Mormonism,' but it is so big a subject that it takes in the United States and every other good thing under the sun. It includes Canada and the British Empire." He staggered, but I had hold of him, so he did not fall. "You have drawn a wrong inference," I continued. "Well, I hope I have," he replied. "But it struck me that you had forgotten you were in a foreign country, and that we Canadians are very sensitive on some points." I assured him that my memory was perfect and unimpared, es- pecially on those points, and that it was farthest from my intent to say anything that would irritate or offend. The cause of umbrage — the ostensible cause — was a comparison I had made between European and American forms of government,' with a view to showing how "Mormonism" was able to come forth under the Constitutional guarantee of religious freedom. Probably the real cause was a recent celebration of the Fourth of July on Canadian soil, by a host of Americans who crossed over to Vancouver, taking with them the Stars and Stripes. The number of automobiles carry- ing this peaceful and perhaps thirsty invasion is said to have been 7,200. My florid friend virtually admitted this to be the rock of offense, in saying: "When we go to the States we honor the American flag; when they come over here they bring their flag with them." This, I was told, is quite a reciprocal custom, Canadians fre- quently crossing the line for a similar purpose (Dominion Day being July 1 ) . and that no one objects to the waving of the Canadian flag on such occasions, so long as the American flag waves beside it. As is the case in England, where any anti-"Mormon" story, however absurd, finds ready credence in the slums and among the lower classes, while the upper, more correctly informed, ignore it; so on the border line between Canada and the United States, it is the ignorant or mischievous who endeavor to keep alive senseless prejudice between the two nations, and resent every allusion to the fundamental differences between monarchial and republican institutions. My censorious interviewer was evidently of this class. Patting him on the back, I said at parting: "I am of English descent myself, ye knaow." This "soft answer," falling upon his sore head like a benediction, seemed to "turn away wrath." for his beery face grew a shade whiter as he peacefully went his way. Another pleasant boat ride, this time over the Strait of Georgia — named, no doubt, for one or more of England's King Georges — ended Monday afternoon with our landing at Victoria, the aristocratic capital of British Columbia. It is situated, as every schoolboy knows,

THE GREAT NORTHWEST 13 on the Island of Vancouver and is probably the most beautiful and most exclusive town in all Canada. We had heard while at Vancouver — in fact a newspaper had published it — that the Ministerial Association at Victoria, with one Bishop Schofield prominent in the movement, were bent upon barring us from holding a meeting in the Chamber of Commerce Auditorium for which arrangements had been made by our elders laboring there. They had paid twenty-five dollars for the use of the auditorium, held a receipt for the money, and the contract, of course, was binding. It was then that a stormy protest arose against the "Mormons" contami- nating with their presence the hallowed precincts of the Chamber of Commerce. Stirred up by the ministers, who remained diplomatically in the background, affecting to disfavor any attempt at "coercion," the wives of the members of the Chamber brought such a pressure to bear upon their lords and masters that at least one-fourth of them threatened to resign — not as husbands, but as members of the Chamber — if this "oful" contract were carried into effect. Such was the situation when we arrived, a party of six, including besides President Young and myself, two other elders and two lady missionaries — Miss Winnifred Cranney, of Ogden, and Miss Gladys Williams, of Centerville, Utah. Alighting from the boat we were making our way up the landing stage, when we were met by the assistant secretary of the Chamber of Commerce who, after briefly stating the case, urged in a rather excited manner an immediate inter- view with the President of the Chamber, who indeed had requested it and sent this messenger to meet us. President Young at once repaired to the Chamber of Commerce building, while the residue of our party, with appetites unaffected by the incident, went to lunch. The result of the interview between the two presidents was an amicable adjustment by which the President of the Chamber, who frankly acknowledged his obligation, but .appealed to the consideration of the Mission President, was released from the awkward predicament in which he found himself, on condition that he would procure for us another hall. This he promptly agreed to do, and was as good as his word. He refunded the twenty-five dollars advanced for the use of the Auditorium, and obtained for us the Knights of Pythias Hall. He also had notices posted at the entrance to the Chamber, informing those who came of the chinge and directing them to the place of meeting. Ten dollars was paid for the K. of P. Hall, and thus was saved fifteen dollars — and" the situation. At eight p. m., a good-natured audience assembled, and gave respectful attention to President Young's introductory talk and to my extended discourse on "The Everlasting Gospel." Keyed up by the incidents of the day and kindled by fire from on High, I think I may say that we spoke with unusual freedom and with marked effect upon

14 IMPROVEMENT ERA the minds of our hearers. Never before, according to President Young, had the inhabitants of Victoria manifested so much interest in "Mor- monism." Two reporters were present, and both interviewed us after the meeting was over. The papers next day published column reports — not of the doctrinal discourse, that would have incensed the ministers, who in previous issues had denounced our religion and referred to us as "idiots" and "fools" who, if "given enough rope," would "hang themselves." The reports were confined to the sensational phases of the incident, and were fair and respectful, in pleasing contrast to the Billingsgate utterances of the clergy. , As for the President of the Chamber of Commerce, he was courtesy itself, feeling grateful, no doubt, for the generous manner in which he had been treated. He invited President Young to call upon him when- ever he came that way. The conservative course pursued evidently made us more friends than any rigid assertion of our rights could possibly have done. Our engagements across the border having been filled, we set out upon our return to the land of freedom and equal rights. Taking boat at Sidney, eighteen miles from Victoria, we landed at Bellingham early in the afternoon. In the Odd Fellows Tulip Hall, at 7:30, we held forth to a splendid audience, the largest I was told, that had ever assembled at Bellingham under Latter-day Saint auspices. At least one-third of the congregation were non- "Mormons." The Sugar Company was quite numerously represented, the sweet contingent including Timpsons, Cluffs, Loves, Kimballs, Newells, and other scions of well-known Utah families. Bellingham, so named for an English nobleman of the long ago, is called "The Little Seattle," and like that great city is "on the Sound." I do not refer to tooting automobiles, shrieking locomotives, and other noisy agencies of civilization, but to the near-by body of land-locked water, a natural harbor dotted with pine-covered, grassy islands, and all but separating the mainland from the Pacific. Thus the town has all the advantages that sea and land together can give — cool, saline, health-giving breezes, and easy access to the ocean, with none of its turbulency and none of its dangers. The parks and drives are beautiful, handsome homes abound, and the people in general are kind and hospitable. Bellingham, though its present population is but 35,000, bids fair to become one of the large Pacific cities of the future. Seattle and Spokane A three-hours' ride by motor car in a southeasterly direction brought us to the town of Everett, where, at noon-day of Sunday the 1 9th, we halted for lunch at the Hotel Monte Cristo. While in no way suggestive of that jeweled grotto in the Mediterranean where, according to Dumas, Edmund Dantes, escaped prisoner from the Chateau d' If, found the buried treasure that changed him into a Count and made the

THE GREAT NORTHWEST 15 world "his'n," it is nevertheless a good place to eat, and I like to speak of things as I find them, especially if I find them to my liking. The Timpsons, who had brought us thus far, now returned, President Young and I proceeding on to Seattle. There, at seven p. m. the regular meeting of the Saints convened in their chapel on Eighth Avenue. The house could scarcely accommodate the large congregation. Newspaper notices and handbills had advertised our coming, and manv people had driven in from other towns to swell the attendance. Fully one-fourth of those present were non-members. Introduced as usual by the President, I discoursed for an hour and twenty minutes, taking for my theme, "Joseph Smith, Prophet and Seer." It held the con- gregation, not one person leaving until the meeting was over. Even the children present manifested deep interest in the subject. Our next stopping place was at Yakima, where we arrived by rail late Monday afternoon. The heat wave, hitherto absent from our experience, now hit us with full force, the torridity increasing as we went on. Yakima is reputed a hard place for our missionaries; but they are a determined lot, not easily discouraged. Some time before our coming, the conference president, D. Crawford Houston (a young brother from Panguitch) had been called up on the telephone by a represen- tative of the local ministerial association, who wanted to know how long he and his co-laborers proposed remaining in that part. "In- definitely," was the laconic response, whereupon the said representative informed him that the said association would do all in its power to hurt the "Mormon" cause — as if he were announcing something strikingly new and correspondingly terrible. The threat was carried out, a phase of its fulfilment being the publication of a number of tracts, one bearing the euphonious title, "The Serpent with a Pearl in Its Mouth," and another labeled, "The Unbroken Bubble," both aimed directly at "Mormonism." The circulation of this lurid literature did not prevent, but rather induced the assembling of a fair-sized congregation at the Masonic Temple, to "hear what these babblers (Young and Whitney) had to say." All present paid strict attention, and the Yakima Morning Herald gave a fair report of the proceedings. The next evening we were at Wenatchee, sweltering in the heat, yet grimly, heroically holding forth at the Eagles Hall, before a mixed gathering, few in number, but making up for it in genuine warmth and perspiration. Most of the men had their coats off, and following their example, I shed mine and preached for the first time in my shirt sleeves. Spokane, for which we entrained next day, is at the extreme eastern end of the state of Washington, and is a town about the size of Salt Lake City. It is the center of the great Coeur d' Alene mining region,

16 IMPROVEMENT ERA which pours its wealth into this busy burg where many of the mining magnates have their homes. Spokane was named for an Indian chief. So were Seattle, Tacoma, Yakima, Wenatchee, and other towns in that section. This is about all that "Lo the poor Indian" got out of it — meaning the country that his forefathers once held in fee simple, and were simple enough to part with for a song. I never heard the song, so have no idea of what it was worth. Yes, this was all that the Indian got out of it — except himself, and he got out in a hurry before the advancing tide of civilization. The tardy use of wooden Indians for tobacco signs, and the placing of their portraits on cigar boxes, orgini- nated no doubt in a conscientious desire on the part of the white man to do justice to the wronged race! Mining is not the only great industry thereabout. The whole Northwest is a wonderful fruit-growing region. The Washington apples are among the finest in the world. If cherries are less plentiful than in other parts, it is doubtless owing to the name of the State! Wind-up of the Tour At Moscow, Idaho's university town, (population 5,000) our meeting was something of a "frost," but not of the same kind that ruined Napoleon at the earlier and more famous city of that name. The University being closed for the summer, most of the students away, and many of the inhabitants absent on vacation, only a hand- ful came out to hear us at the Idaho Theatre, the free use of which had been courteously tendered by Mr. A. H. Oversmith, a prominent lawyer of the town. Returning to Spokane, we joined with the Elders and Saints in celebrating Utah's natal day — virtually the birthday of civilization in the Rocky Mountain region, and yet to be honored and observed as such. When the time comes, as it assuredly will, that we can name our public schools after the men and women who made the country that we inhabit, who founded the State that we all love, instead of going to New England and even to Europe for such names, we may confidently look for a full and proper appreciation of the 24th of July all over the western part of our beloved land. The celebration at Spokane was at Manito Park. In the midst of the outdoor games and under-tree banquet, a rain came on and drove the picnickers to the shelter of the L. D. S. Church, corner of Fifth and Howard, where I addressed them on the subject of "Utah and the Pioneers." The following Sunday President Young and I both preached there. This Church was acquired from the Universalists for the sum of $16,000, and is one of the best appointed houses of worship in Spokane. It would make this article too long to mention every name and incident connected with that very interesting tour. Skipping over

THE GREAT NORTHWEST 17 some of the meetings held — there were about twenty-five in all — I will say that one of the best was at Butte, Montana. There, at a special conference, on the evening of Sunday, August 2, I wound up my visit to the Northwestern States mission. The conference convened in the Odd Fellows Hall. It was my first meeting in Butte, and I was more than pleased with my reception. Most of the congregation were Latter-day Saints, but quite a number of strangers and investigators were also present. My theme was "The Restoration of the Everlasting Gospel." At the close, fully half of the congregation flocked to the stand to present their felicita- tions. Monday morning found me aboard the good old Union Pacific (O. S. L.) bound for home. President Young intended visiting other parts of his mission before returning to Portland. My daily association with this friend of my youth, and the scenes and experiences we passed through during the month of July, 1925, will always be cherished as a happy memory. The Friend I Want I want to have for a friend the man Who has been tempted as you, or I, Who thirsted and yearned for a helping hand Which the envious deny. I want to have for a friend the man Who has suffered, and known defeat, Who has felt the fangs of a poisonous mouth With never a thought of retreat. I want to have for a friend the man Who is wise in the ways of the world, Who has walked alone, and never flinched At the darts the mean have hurled. I want to have for a friend the man Who has fought with unwavering faith, And lifted his eyes to the stars above When his hopes disappeared like a wraith. I want to have for a friend the man Who has helped the under dog, And given him the courage to struggle on Past the grey, engulfing fog. I want to have for a friend the man Who has been tempted as you, or I, Who fell, and arose and went valiant on, His courage always high. Salt Lake City A. HENDERSON