A Glimpse of the Scottish Highlands

A Glimpse of the Scottish Highlands BY SHIRLEY PENROSE JONES We look at a picture, admire it, and remember it for a short time, then it is forgotten. In our memories, perchance, we retain a dim mental vision of it, but it is largely due to some incident connected with its story if we recall it vividly in after moments. We gaze upon a rugged mountain and are moved to awe by its magnificence ; we are enraptured by a smiling vista, and charmed by crystal lakes, but, unless there is connected with these things of nature something intimately associated with our recollections, we FORTH BRIDGE are apt to remember them only as delightful scenes and fail to recall anything distinguishing about them. The visitor to Scotland will indeed be dull of observation should he fail to find in the hills and lakes of that country pictures to momentarily delight the eye and appeal to the sense of things beautiful. And should his taste incline towards other things he could quite as easily be satisfied with the study of her national

818 IMPROVEMENT ERA life, by the customs and habits of the coltars, or by the commerce of the cities. But to fully appreciate Scotland he should direct some attention to her stirring history ; her intrigues and chivalry. Holyrood Palace becomes a mere pile of ancient brick and mortar if we forget the story of Riggio or the ill-fated Mary, and we have no interest in Edinburgh's dirty High Street if we overlook that once it was the aristocratic street of the city; that here lived and died the reformer John Knox. We look around us and see the ravages of poverty and then realize the changes wrought in the evolution of cities as we remember that once these dingy houses and dirty cobbles were graced by the highest in the land. However, our eyes at present are not to be directed upon the lowland cities, so let us turn our attention towards the famous Highlands of Scotland and see what the perspective affords us. Leaving Edinburgh we shall journey through Dunkeld, Killiecrankie Pass and Airemore, the heart of the highland region, to Inverness, "capital of the north." One- of the first objects of interest is the magnificent Forth Bridge. Located some twelve miles from Edinburgh, it spans the Firth of Forth and is about one mile and a quarter long. It took years to construct and is so huge that a gang of men is employed to keep it painted and in repair. We get permission from the manager to walk across the bridge and it takes us an hour and a half '-*& «rt~« fSjM ON THE FINDHORN LOOOKING UP THE FINDHORN FROM THE DIVIE

A GLIMPSE OF THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS 819 to make a return journey. During that time some ten trains pass us. In the middle of the bridge, which is built on the cantilever system and formed of three great spans, it takes a stone about fifteen seconds to drop from the flooring to the water. Far over our heads tower great cables holding this marvel of engineering skill together. The largest cables are fully twelve feet in diameter. From the Bridge to Perth the landscape has an appearance like the tops of high rolling hills. Perthshire is one of the prettiest counties of Scotland, and our trip will take us through this district. On our way we pass many uprooted pine trees whose short, wide roots show us the shallowness of the soil on these mountains. From Perth onward the contour of the country is much the same, although there are many different details to lend variety. The hills are high and in many places are covered with loose, jagged boulders. In the summer and fall a purple mantle of heather clothes these ancient fastTHE ISLAND AND THE TWO BRIDGES, INVERNESS Ca^tlh MtuL nesses of the fierce clansmen, but in winter the garb is changed for one of dull brown, putting the hills in mourning for their past tragic history. As we rush along, the picture is like one vast, drab background of hills reaching far off into the distance where sky and earth each lose identity and blend together in pleasing harmony. The foreground is dotted here and there with green forests of pine trees from between whose branches sparkle crystal lakes like diamonds in an emerald setting. INVERNESS FROM THE CASTLE HILL

820 IMPROVEMENT ERA Occasionally we will pass small villages nestling in tiny valleys, but the region through which we pass is very sparsely settled. Much of the hilly country forms the estates where wealth and affluence spend their time with rod and gun escaping the inroads of social luxury. Wild, long-horned cattle roam over the hills, on guard to preserve the spirit of untamable nature. We will possibly be surprised to find that the wearing of kilts is as much a part of romance as are those who wore them. Very few besides the soldiers are garbed in this picturesque dress, but if desirous we may have our photographs taken in full Scotch costume to impress our friends that we have exhaustively prosecuted our search into Caledonian customs. The Pass of Killiecrankie is one of the famous beauty spots included in our journey. Also Carr Bridge, the village immediately beyond Aviemore, where timber-clad valleys and hills form a soothing view of nature at perfect rest. Just before we arrive at Inverness, Culloden Moor and Battlefield are reached. As we look over this barren spot our minds revert to a time when the ground swarmed with the desperate Highlanders of Bonnie Prince Charlie. We see them fiercely charging the forces of Cumberland — the spirit of freedom lending valor to their almost superhuman efforts. We look again and see them gradually driven back by the trained English soldiers until they seek safety in flight, leaving behind the dead hopes of Scotland's last great attempt for freedom. After the rout and defeat the Highlands ceased to be an abode of opposition to established law, and a sheriff had no more trouble in arresting his man here than in the lowlands. Inverness at last ! What disappointment ! As we emerge from the railway station into the business part of the city we see on all sides squalid buildings and dingy streets. But we reserve our judgment until after further investigation and feel repaid for our discretion. Aside from one or two streets, Inverness is the most beautiful of cities. If you admire antiquity, adore romance, or if your inclination leans towards scenic beauties, you shall be satisfied. Anything you want is at Inverness ! If we shut out our twentieth century skepticism, we are in the fairyland of our childhood dreams. That is, if we will be content with looking at it, but I'm afraid our American love for possession will tempt us to buy

A GLIMPSE OF THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS 821 something in this fairyland, then, alas, we will awaken with a shock for the inhabitants of Inverness are not slumbering in reminiscence but are alert to the realities of life. So much so that things we want will here cost us more than at other places farther south. The city is built on both side of the River Ness and is situated on the north coast of Scotland at the head of the Moray Firth and the mouth of the great glen. It is joined together by four public bridges. The eastern city embodies the main business as well as the most historic parts, while on both sides are many lovely, romantic walks leading to cozy nooks and past the beautiful grounds of stately homes. There are more charming walks and picturesque places in Inverness than in any city we have yet visited. In the river are many wooded islands connected with each other and the riverbanks by bridges. Walks and paths with an occasional bench have been designed for the comfort of strollers. One municipality, at least, pays attention to the peculiar needs, in the way of solitude and harmonious surroundings, of those mortals who have tasted from the enchanted well or been stricken with the arrows of implacable Cupid. Overhead the swaying trees gently brush together and make a mournful sighing in sympathy with the young creatures so remorselessly possessed. At our feet, running away from the foot path, and encircling the trees with tender embrace, are vines and other vegetation, and through the undergrowth we hear the faint, lapping gurgle of the invisible river making sweet music like some Lorelei tempting us to destruction. But to adequately describe these enchanted walks we should be disciples of Eros, but being in no mood for his tutoring we reluctantly turn our eyes from them to safer if less romantic things. , To the east of Inverness rises an eminence known as Castle Hill which has been the site of fortifications since about the twelfth century. It is certain there was a fort there in the reign of William the Lion (1165-1214). From the Hill a magnificent view is secured. Away on every side are mountains clasping the little city in their protecting arms. The hill slopes are divided among the cotters whose white houses make a bright relief in the panorama. Not far from Castle Hill is the Crown where was located the traditionary castle of Macbeth — Shakespeare's immortal

822 IMPROVEMENT ERA character. Inverness fairly lives in historical episodes and romance. Before leaving we must mention that from Inverness runs the Caledonian canal, the largest in Scotland. It leads into Loch Ness and from here on a clear day we may see Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak. Some twenty-five miles northeast of Inverness is Farres from where we may walk for miles along the banks of the Findhorn or Divie rivers through a delightful combination of forest, mountain and river country. In places, the river runs a raging torrent, leaping and snarling from rock to rock, and again is silent and subdued, seeking to hide itself, ashamed of its former violence. The Earl of Murray owns some of the land we pass over, and the immense forests of pine, larch, spruce and oak form the shootinggrounds of many noted hunting parties. We have now but glanced at a few of Scotland's historic beauty spots, but they are sufficient to give us some idea of the natural wonders of the Highlands,and a more intelligent conception of the courage and misfortune of those sturdy men who loved and fought for the country whose own untamable disposition encouraged them to love freedom and liberty. HULL, ENGLAND.