Pen Pictures of the Holy Land. III

Pen Pictures of the Holy Land, From Dan to Beersheba. BY HAMILTON GARDNER. III. — Random Strolls in the Holy City. Imagine you were standing with me on the Mount of Olives, looking down at Jerusalem. There, spread out before us, lies the Holy City — the abiding place of prophets, the scene of the world's greatest tragedy, the first home of the Christian Church. To reach this goal, millions of pilgrims — Jew, Christian and MohamJERUSALEM FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. Arrow A points to the round-domed Church of the Sepulchre. B points to the Golden Gate. Letter C is the temple area, and to the left of it is the Mosque of Omar. Arrow D points to the Gate of St. Stephen. The Kidron Valley extends from E to F.

medan— have striven during many ages. The mere thought of this city in infidel hands was the prime reason why thousands of fanatical Crusaders uselessly sacrificed their lives. Even today great numbers of people suffer indescribable hardships and make heart-breaking sacrifices to realize their heart's ambition in a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. So, just consider first what an important part the Holy City has played and is playing in the emotions and lives of men. Let me give you a warning before we start on our sight-seeing. You must not expect to find Jerusalem beautiful. It has been under Mohammedan control too long for that. Also, you must anticipate no pleasure except that of visiting the city's historical and religious points of interest. On every hand you will find only intense fanaticism, jealousy and bigotry, Just one motive impels men to come to Jerusalem — religion. That is the whole soul and life of the place. To understand in the least some of the things you will later see, it is imperative that you keep this fact in mind. The population of Jerusalem is about one hundred thousand. Of this number about sixty-five thousand are Jews, most of whom have assembled here during the last twenty years. This is a highly significant fact, showing, as it does, that the Old Testament prophecies in regard to the gathering of scattered Judah are being fulfiled. Besides the natives of the country, the Holy City's population includes representatives from almost every Christian nation, our own among the rest. I was fortunate in staying with the American colony — about one hundred and fifty Americans, who were led here about twenty-seven years ago by a man named Spafford, from Chicago. These people live in a social community, their system much resembling what the Latterday Saints call the United Order. They are seemingly successful in their attempts to imitate the communion of the first Christians. Everything appears to be done in unity, love and good-fellowship. President Booth, of the Turkish mission, who accompanied us on most of our trips through Pahstine, and whose knowledge of the Bible and familiarity with the country proved invaluable, introduced Brother Thomas P. Page and myself, in Jerusalem, to a Mr. Rollo Floyd, the last member of a colony planted in the Holy

PEN PICTURES OF THE HOLY LAND. 255 Land forty-six years ago by one of the factions of the sect founded by David Whitmer. Don't forget that we are still standing on the Mount of Olives. We occupy the same position that Christ did, when, after the Last Supper, he came out on this hill with his disciples. With the temple in full view, just across the Kidron valley, he predicted its destruction, and enumerated the signs of his second coming. Here we get an admirable view of the east part of the THE DAMASCUS GATE. city wall, with the gates of St. Stephen — the traditional site of the stoning of that martyr — and the now walled up Golden Gate, through which Christ rode in triumph into the city. But let us go down into the city, and enjoy a stroll through those crooked lanes and alleys, which in Jerusalem are called streets. Above everything else, you will be struck by the cosmopolitan character of the people. This is easily explained. Jerusalem is not only a Holy City to the Christians, but to the Jews and Mohammedans as well. Pilgrims and travelers, representing these three great religions, are present from almost every nation under heaven. Americans, Copts, Greeks, Arabs and Europeans rub elbows with Abyssinians, Turks, Armenians, Syrians, Jews and

Russians. Each brings his own language and dress, so the result is a confusion which only the Tower of Babel could rival. Let us follow, for a short time, the Via Dolorosa, or Street of Pain. It begins at the Judgment Hall, where Christ was questioned by Pilate, scourged, mocked, and finally delivered over to his death. Cross at this point is called Ecce Homo has it, that bewould not enter came out on this the blood-thirsty exposed to their Christ crowned arrayed in a purDolorosa connects with the Church chre, and marks route the doomed way to Golgotha, tie distance by Latin and Greek stations traditionwith the incidents ney. Some of been worn smooth devout pilgrims. Jerusalem is the day evening, and fur caps, wall, and participate in ing over the street part of the soArch. Tradition cause the Jews his house, Pilate arch, talked to mob below, and mocking gaze, with thorns and pie robe. The Via the Judgment Hall of the Holy Sepulthe supposed Jesus took on his Marked every litstones bearing inscriptions, are ally connected of this sad jourthese stones have by the kisses of One of the most interesting places in Wailing Place of the Jews. Every Fridevout Jews, in their curious, long robes, assemble at a certain part of the templea most curious service. Standing THE VIA DOLOROSA. Showing the Ecce Homo Arch. close to the wall and swaying slowly backward and forward, they bewail the departed glory of their nation, and entreat Jehovah to speedily gather his children in power back to Jerusalem. To see those aged Jews, with tears streaming down their cheeks, earnestly praying God to "restore again Zion," is a most touching sight. To feel really close to the glory of old Jerusalem, a visit to the Temple Area is necessary. The site of Solomon's temple has

PEN PICTURES OF THE HOLY LAND. 257 been occupied by many buildings. The temples of Nehemiah and Herod, a pagan temple of the Romans, and the Crusader's church, have all been erected there, and now a Mohammedan mosque bears witness of the changes time works. While nothing is left of old Jewish days, the mere fact that the temple of God once stood here makes it holy ground. It is said no Jew will enter the Temple Area for fear of treading on the Holy of Holies. Over a big rock on the highest part of the temple enclosure is the beautiful Mosque of Omar. Moslems believe that this rock is the scene of Abraham's interrupted sacrifice of Isaac, and the hoof-print of Mohammed's horse, as he sprang into heaven, is also shown. Come with me now out into theKidron valley, on the east of the city. Notice the great number of graves by the city wall. For every grave-stone you see, probably six or seven Mohammedans lie buried below. They believe the last judgment will take place here, and they desire to be close at hand. A thin wire will be stretched from the Mount of Olives to the city wall, and over this every one will be compelled to walk. The righteous will be borne up by their guardian angels, and will pass over safely, while the wicked will fall into perdition. Further up the valley we come to the Garden of Gethsemane, a place you will never forget after once visiting. Outside the entrance are shown the places where the apostles slept, and where Judas gave the betraying kiss — but we will hasten on into the garden. Franciscan monks care for the trees and bushes, and it is indeed a beautiful place. The surroundings inspire us, and we try to picture, in a small degree, the agony which Christ suffered here. "And he was withdrawn from them about a stone's cast, and knelt down and prayed, saying, Father, if thou be willing, remove THE WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS.

THE MOSQUE OF OMAR. this cup from me! Nevertheless, not my will, but thine, be done And being in an agony, he prayed more earnestly; and his sweat was as it were great drops of blood falling down to the ground." THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE ("Easter at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre" is the title of the next article in this series, to be continued in the February Era.) University of Utah.