People and Places in the Orient, V. A Bit of China

Peoples and Places in the Orient.

BY FRANK J. HEWLETT, DIRECTOR OF THE UTAH STATE FAIR AND PRESIDENT OF HEWLETT BROS. COMPANY.

V.— A Bit of China. After a strenuous time in Shanghai, I was well satisfied to rest up a brief period on my floating home. The first thing wanted was a bath. Arrayed in kimona, slippers, etc., I rang for the "Chinese bath boy." When informed of my immediate necessity, he looked surprised, and replied in the best pigeon English that he could speak, "No takee bath. Dirty water— Shanghai water. Takee bath mollow morning. ' ' These were the exact words used and China was triumphant over America. In my anxiety for a bath I had forgotten that we were still in the Yangtze river, the

water of which is yellow and nearly thick enough to paint a house. After sailing sixty hours, we arrived in the splendid harbor of Hongkong. The world-renowed island is situated off the coast of the Kiaung province, near the mouth of the Canton river. It

is about eleven miles long and from two to five miles wide. Its

circumference is about twenty-seven miles. The city of Victoria, usually referred to as Hong-kong, is magnificently situated on the northern shore of the island. The harbor faces a sheet of water be- tween the island and the mainland, is enclosed on all sides by lofty summits, and is generally considered to be one of the finest and most beautiful harbors in the world. The city has an area of ten square miles, and with its diversified scenery, and varied shipping, pre- sents a most animated and imposing spectacle. I think it safe to make the statement that there more actual tonnage shipped is

from this harbor than from any other in the world. The face of

PEOPLES AND PLACES IX THE OR I EXT. 47

the water is dotted with every imaginable kind of craft, from the

little sampans and the clumsy junks, to the great English warship, sitting like an aquatic mastiff. Among these, quite conspicuously, gleam the Stars and Stripes upon some transports enroute for the Philippines, and several big war vessels whose prowess now makes Americans proud of their country's navy. Many of the houses in the city of Victoria are large and hand- some, rising tier upon tier from the water's edge to a height of over four hundred feet on the face of the peak, while heavy build- ings are visible on the summit of the hills. Seen from the water at night, when lamps twinkle among the trees and houses, the city, spreading along the shore for upwards of four miles, affords a sight not soon forgotten. John Bull, the prince of real estate men, made, indeed, a master stroke when he secured this valuable property. Its forti-

fications are towers of strength, ranking next to Gibraltar and Quebec. It is an open port, no quarantine, no baggage inspection, no tariff, all as free as the air you breathe, provided you put on your best behavior, — for Great Britain's laws are made with one object in view— to be enforced. The hotel launches are soon alongside, and a few moments later their advance agents are soliciting trade.The Chinese tailors swarm around, with tape and samples, to "makee a white suit, sixey dollars." Arriving at the hotel, the first thing to greet one is a sign, "Please use the lift," (elevator). We were assigned rooms on the sixth floor, and were glad to enter the lift, but it raised so slowly — not much faster than the Salt Lake City boule- vard. Our windows were covered with long, blue curtains, dotted with white dragons. Hong-kong has a number of interesting points, in and around the city of Victoria, the principal one being the Peak, to which there is a cable-car line up the mountain-side some eighteen hun- dred feet to the Peak hotel. Here a grand, panoramic view may be obtained. The driveways are very limited, the mode of con- veyance being nearly all by "jinrikisha," and by sedan chairs,

for the city. In these one is carried for a nominal sum, by two Chinese coolies, along narrow paths, on the mountain sides. We rode nearly to the top of the Peak, and gazed in wonder at the

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scenes below. Midway is located the large reservoirs that supply the sparkling water to the Hong-kong people. We saw the British barracks, with the soldiers in white and gold uniforms, on dress

Frank J. Hewlett traveling in China.

parade, while the splendid band was playing stirring airs. We concluded to walk back, so as to have ample time to enjoy the scenery, meet the different classes of people going to and fro, and view the beautiful flowers and the luxuriant foliage. There is no rose without a thorn: halfway down the summit, on the main traveled road, we witnessed a sight that will linger a long period in our memory: Nearly naked Chinese women were carrying sand in baskets, two at a time, one at each end of a pole across their shoulders. The load was so heavy that they staggered under it, as they toiled up the steep incline. They start out with about thirty baskets, and carry two for as long a distance as possible, then return for two more until all are carried to the top of the Peak. They go in single file, each knows her own baskets. One can see the beads of perspiration drop from their foreheads as they stagger along under their heavy burdens. The sand is used for building purposes, the women are paid so much per hundred pounds, their wages average. from twelve to twenty cents a day.

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Before leaving home, Fisher Harris of the Commercial Club, pinned a badge on the lapel of my coat on which was the optimis- tic word, "Smile'," and I have always tried to look at the humor- ous side of things. I have seen women sweeping the streets to earn a livelihood; the Japanese women, in the rice fields, working in mud and water nearly to their waists; and the women of Nagasaki loading coal on the ships, from dawn to dark; but in most cases the toilers were in the company of others to urge them on with words, laughter and encouragement. But these Chinese women were plodding along alone, as if their lives depended on this day's work, the cords on their arms and legs strained almost to the point of bursting. I did not smile on this occasion but breathed a silent prayer to the Father of all to hasten the day when these poor creatures might be freed from bondage, and have the joy of living like his more favored children. Money is a good thing to have in this world, but in China the novice becomes entangled in many difficulties. There is not a universal class of money in China. Nearly every province has its own particular coin. In Shanghai you have the so-called Shanghai dollar. Hongkong has her special kind of Chinese money for the island; then, to make financial difficulties more complicated, Great Britain also has her money. On one side are Chinese characters, while on the other is stamped the head of Queen Victoria. Canton has her money, and jealously puts the arm of protection around it, so that her tradesmen will refuse all other coins in her munic- ipality. And thus it is throughout the Chinese empire. While riding along Queen Road, a news boy ran after me crying, China Mail. Anxious for the news, I purchased a copy, and handed him the price in Chinese currency. A few moments later he came racing alongside my rikisha, yelling like blue murder, and handed the coin back to me to the amusement of the other tourists. I

handed him several different coins which were refused, then in

pure despair gave him back the paper. No doubt several of the coins were counterfeit, having been passed on an unsuspecting foreigner, French style, by the unscrupulous postal-card dealers. Iwas careful in the future to take only the ones that had Victoria stamped on them, which was the real legal tender on the island. Hongkong has a population of about 210,000. It is very

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cosmopolitan but mostly Chinese. The European business quarter occupies the middle of the city. The streets are macadam-paved, and well drained. The thoroughfares, for the most part, are well shaded with trees. The business blocks of Hongkong are some- what ancient in architecture, but are commodious and well venti- lated. Hongkong being a free port, there is no complete official returns of the imports and exports. People who know best, esti- mate the value, per annum, at over two hundred and fifty million dollars, and it is constantly increasing. For several years past the exports from the United States to Hongkong have been over ten million annually, and the imports into the United States from Hongkong are over two million a year. The principal exports are sugar, lumber, flour, coal, hemp, kerosene, machinery, woolen and cot- ton goods. The city is the chief distributing market for the south of China, and as such invites a close study View of Canton River, China. and attention, on the part of United States exporters. No tourist fails to visit Canton, the typical Chinese city,

where three million people live, and one feels for the moment as if itis the fountain, the place where the heart of old China beats.

At the pier, there are some of the finest river steamers in the world. Their leaving is as regular as clock work, night and morning. The accommodations are first class. Foreigners take the upper decks, while the coolies are sent below and locked in, for there has been serious trouble with them on several occasions. It is

ninety miles up the Pearl river whose various scenes are extremely interesting. Hundreds of house-boats, upon which thousands of people are born, live, marry, and die, are there. It is in fact very

doubtful if many of the Cantonese have ever set feet on terra- firma. Sampans of every size are being rowed up and down the river, many of the rowers being in undress uniform. Junks, painted in gaudy colors with big, black eyes and white rims around

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them, seem to be staring at you from every direction. I asked a native, who spoke a little English, what the eyes were for. The answer was direct to the point: "No eyes, how see? no see, how walkee?" The river bazars are most dazzling affairs, the spectacular As one nears Canton, the people effect being most extraordinary. become more and more numerous, and before the boat is fastened to the wharf, the din of many voices reaches the ear like the roar of an angry surf. Professional guides are there, and they present their cards in a business-like manner. They are absolutely neces- sary, no stranger would think of going into Canton without their aid and advice. Next one engages chairs, three coolies to each chair, one to change off with the others. You are carried on a

The Temple of the Five Hundred Genii.

fixed route, which gives a glimpse of the most important points of interest in Canton. Many of the people are so badly disposed to- wards foreigners, that the visitors are gently warned by the guides not to invite or resent any remarks, loud laughter, or gestures. Here is the Temple of Five Hundred Genii the water clock in ;

the temple, on the walls; the Temple of Flowers, with a court-yard

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full of fortune tellers and beggars; and here, the execution grounds, with their tales of horror, only too true. Examination hall is in-

Interior of the Temple of the Five-Hundred Genii.

teresting. Here hundreds of young Chinese students wait for weeks, and sometimes months, to be examined for educational honors. They bring their food and beds with them, and one must admire their quiet, respectful demeanor, and their unflagging energy in the cause of education. The next place of in-

terest is the five story pagoda on the city walls. Here the guide finds chairs and tables, and sets forth the luncheon The Five-story Pagoda. brought from the steamer. Returning across the city you pass the Flowery Pagoda; the ruins of a once splendid marble structure; the old English Yaamen, where the first foreign legation

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was housed, in 1842; the court house; city prison; and the Green Tea Merchant's guild hall. Canton no longer holds the important place that it once did in the tea trade. The trade between Canton and London is now practically extinct. The exports to London have fallen from 1,170,000 pounds, in 1885, to 490,000, in 1908. The Indian and Ceylon people have captured this trade. The streets are very narrow, ranging from five to eight feet in width, and the people are as numerous, to all appearances, as ants on a sandhill in the desert. Down these narrow lanes we go. Here are matting awnings over-head, and swinging, black, gold, sign-boards, which are about fifteen inches wide and ten feet long, hung perpendicularly. Two chairs can hardly pass. To turn some sharp corners, the poles are run far into the shops, and when a mandarin's chair, or mounted escort, appears, one is hustled into an open shop front, and does not feel safe there from the bumping and brushing of the train. One is almost bewildered by the confusion, — the panorama of open shops, oil shops, and Standard oil cans, meat and Flower Boats. cook shops on either side. Mysterious cooking simmers, sputters, and scents the air, and for a time at least, one wishes that his nose would lose its smell- ing power. Dried ducks hang by half-yard-long necks, and a queer bit of dried meat declared itself, by the thin, long tail,

curled like a grape tendril, to be the rat. The rat is in the market everywhere, alive in cages, fresh or dried on meat-shop counters; and dried ones are often bought as souvenirs of a trip to Canton, and proof of the often-denied rat story. White mice in cages are plentiful, canary birds are singing as sweetly in some of the dingy shops, as if they were in the Garden of Paradise. You enter one of the silk or jade-shops. A curious crowd follows. The shop-keeper, quick as a flash, locks the door. You