Christmas in Bethlehem

CHRISTMAS IN BETHLEHEM. BY C. E. JOHNSON. Christmas in Bethlehem! There is, perhaps, not one of the readers of that sentence who has not wished for the great privilege and pleasure of spending Christmas in Bethlehem. To walk the streets and behold the land of the birthplace of our beloved Savior, to see the people in the streets and on the house- tops, to hear the bells of Bethlehem, to visit the noted Church of the Nativity, to see and hear the solemn services officiated in by men of patriarchal and noble bearing, to see the beautiful gold- embroidered and jeweled regalia, the priestly robes and sacred or- naments and relics, to hear the chanting and singing of the deep- voiced, full-bearded priests, see the processions of worshipers car- rying myriads of large and small candles, — all this, and more, is fascinating, and may be witnessed and heard on Christmas day and eve in Bethlehem. It having been my privilege to enjoy this great pleasure, I shall endeavor to give the readers of the Era a description of it in as comprehensive a manner as able. I am Of the photos I made on the occasion, (or more properly two occasions) I have selected the one showing the Greek Christmas, which is thirteen days later, in counting time, than the Latin (our American- Christ- mas is observed by the Latin calendar). The services of both, in the streets of Bethlehem, are very similar, so that the picture shown gives a very good idea of the occasion, both of the Latin and Greek church service. Perhaps the reader may get a better idea of the proceedings of the entire day and night if I begin at the beginning and describe them throughout.

. CHRISTMAS IN BETHLEHEM. 127 The distance from Jerusalem to Bethlehem is about five miles In that country the inhabitants do not speak of "miles" when re- ferring to distance, but always of "hours." Bethlehem is about two hours from Jerusalem. On the morning of December 24, about eleven o'clock, the Patriarch of the church, accompanied by several high church dignitaries, leave Jerusalem in carriages for Bethlehem. Hundreds of people, on foot, on donkeys, on horses, and in various vehicles, start at the same time, forming a long but somewhat straggling procession. They proceed slowly along the road, which is very much like our own country roads, for about two and one- half miles to the convent of Elias, or, as they speak it, "Mar-eelyus." At this point a large tent has been erected on the side of the road opposite the convent. The convent is strictly one of priests, not nuns. At this tent the patriarch and his company alight, rest, and partake of refreshments. This gives all those who are on foot time to arrive, and also gives everybody a slight rest. A half hour or more is spent here, when the journey is re- sumed for another mile or two, until the tomb of Rachel is reached. This tomb is of great historical interest, as it marks the spot of the death of Rachel and the birthplace of Benjamin. This is the spot where "Jacob set up a pillar upon her grave; that is the pillar of Rachel's grave until this day" (Gen. 35: 20). This same pillar, built into a large house-tomb, is unto this day still standing as a witness. The road to Bethlehem passes within ten or twenty yards of it. Arriving at the tomb, the cavalcade is met by a delegation of bishops and other church dignitaries from Bethlehem, who, after exchanging salutations and "salaams" (wish- ing "peace to you"), join the procession, and the whole company proceed to the city. Driving through the narrow streets, the first thing notice- able are the throngs of people assembled on the house-tops, in the windows and the small window balconies. Proceeding to the cen- ter of the city, we reach the open square in front of the Church of the Nativity, which is built over the small cave called the Manger, and which is considered to be the spot where the Savior was born. Here the procession pauses, the patriarch and all alight, the car- riages are driven out of the way, and the retinue from Jerusalem

. 128 IMPRO VEMENT ERA are met by the bishops, priests and others who reside in Bethle- hem. These bring beautiful vestments of gold and silver em- broidery, with which they robe the patriarch before his entry into the church. They carry also beautifully engraved golden crosses, Bibles, and a dozen or more holy articles, relics, etc. The attend- ants remove the patriarch's cloak and cap, and in their place put the robes which they have brought. All this is done in the open square and, as you will see by the photograph which I took from the top of a house about one-story from the ground, the square is well filled with people. These come not alone from Jerusalem and Bethlehem but from all the country, — might say truthfully, from I all the world, for there are thou- sands who make the journey to Palestine largely for the purpose of seeing the Christmas festivities in Bethlehem. The photo was taken at the moment when the patriarch was ready to proceed to the church. He holds a tall golden cross in his hand. Around him are the bishops and others with the holy articles. The patri- arch now steps forward, and is followed by the bishops, and after- wards by the people. They proceed to the door of the church,which the stranger is very much surprised to find a narrow, low opening, about thirty inches wide and five feet high, where all except chil- dren or dwarfs must bow the head to enter. Slowly the procession is swallowed up by this small church door. Once inside, a vast and massive chamber greets the eye, with talland magnificent marble columns, myriads of small glass lamps, and huge chande- liers for lamps and candles. Passing through this room into the church proper, or altar-room, we find that no such things as seats or benches of any kind are provided. Each worshiper must either stand up or sit upon the floor. Many bring shawls or small mats for this purpose. When all who so desire have entered the church, the patriarch and priests, who have ascended the steps of the altar, begin the solemn ceremonies, which consist of singing, chanting and speaking— all being in Latin or Greek and was quite unintelligible to me. It seemed to consist of a conversation carried on by different persons— voices sometimes being heard from behind screens in answer to what seemed to be questions from those whom we could see. The robes and vestments of the patriarch were changed, from

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130 IMPROVEMENT ERA. time to time, by the attendant priests, all of whom were still dressed in their richly embroidered vestments. In reply to my questions, I was told that this conversation was related to the creation of the world until the coming of Adam, and later the coming of the Savior, all very solemn and impressive, and beautiful. This was concluded about sundown, when all went to their homes or places of abode, to rest until midnight, at which time another service was held. When this crowd of people began to scatter, one could easily imagine how it happened that the mother of our Savior could find only a cave and a manger for a place of rest. Every nook and corner of space in every house, inn or convent was occupied, and hundreds either walked the streets or lay down in any little stray corner to get a few winks of sleep until the, midnight service should begin. Fortunately, as Madam Mountford, whom I accompanied as photographer, was a guest of honor, we were allowed to remain in the convent, Madam Mountford occupy- ing a very small chamber with two other ladies, also guests. I went to rest on a bench, with my steamer-rug and overcoat, my camera case for a pillow; and, being a good sleeper, I rested well until awakened at eleven o'clock by the ringing of the beautiful bells of Bethlehem. You will never know how fascinating and lovely the sound, unless you should be fortunate enough to hear it. No words can describe the sensation of listening to thousands of bells, of all sizes, small and great, each ringing its loudest tones, all sounding at one and the same time . Soon we are all awakened and again the throngs gather in the church. The patriarch and priests arrive, and again a solemn service is observed.At the close the , wax figure of a babe is brought out and with proper ceremony is "swaddled" and "salted." This is to represent the infant Savior. After the swaddling, the priests form a procession, joined by the multitude, and the babe is carried down into the cave where the "crib" or manger is located. At this place lamps are always burning The babe is laid in the manger and left there by . the Latin church for thirteen days — or, until the Greek Christmas services occur. This ends the ceremonies, It is now about 3 o'clock in the

CHRISTMAS IN BETHLEHEM. 131 morning; and as soon as daylight appears, thousands start for home. During the night services, almost every person present carries a candle, ranging in size frcm a lead pencil to three or four feet in length. Two huge candles— four inches in diameter and about five feet long, are placed at the head of the steps leading down into the manger . These are allowed to burn for days — until burned out, in fact. The Latin church has a large, fine-toned pipe organ in the Church of the Nativity, which they use to accompany their singing. The Greeks never use any in- struments of music, only the voices of the priests and choir boys. Neither do the Greeks use the image of the babe. Otherwise the ceremonies seem very similar. Neither church ever have women sing- ers, all the singing is done by the rich-toned and sonorous voices of the priests, and the treble of the altar boys. One of the other pic- tures shows the fields of the shepherds just east of Beth- lehem, and was taken from the top of the church, a por- tion of which is seen. The other is a typical PHOTO BY JOHNSON scene in Bethlehem, showing WOMEN AND C HILDREN OF BETHLEHEM. married women and children. The peculiar shape of the white head-dress indicates that they are married women. A fine sample of a large water or oil jar is seen in the picture You can always recognize a Bethlehem woman, . young or old, by the white head-dress, and the married from the single. The unmarried woman simply puts it over her head like a shawl. The married woman wears a cap under it which gives it the shape seen in the picture.

; . , . 132 IMPRO VEMENT ERA Should you ever go to Palestine, it will be profitable to try and time your visit so that you may be in Bethlehem on Christmas eve. I have hundreds of other interesting pictures, some of which I hope to show the readers of the Era at some other time Salaam- Alekome. "Peace to you." Silt Lake City, Utah.