The Land of Ferns

LAND OF FERNS. BY ELDER JAMES KING, OF THE NEW ZEALAND MISSION. The name applied to this beautiful, fern-bedecked land is not a mere fictitious one, but a most striking reality. The three large Islands, and many smaller ones, known as the New Zealand group, lie off the south-east coast of Australia, and form one of the largest groups in the South seas. Allow me just to mention a few things that may be seen by a careful observer, as he pursues his course through this far-famed wonderland. Let us start in the far north and come south. In the northern part of the North Island is found one of the most noted forests in the world. It is here the mighty kauri grows, which is only second in size to the giants of the forest found in California, U. S. A. Underlying this forest are large gum-fields, where hundreds of natives, and some Europeans, find employment digging gum which has been covered over years ago. Most of this gum is sent to America to be made into varnish. Coming southward, we reach Aukland, settled in 1840, and formerly the capital of New Zealand; its population is now about 58,000. Leaving here, we take train for Rotorna. Upon our arrival at this place, we are soon surrounded by guides who wich to be of service in showing us about among the boiling springs, and spouting geysers, some of them playing over a thousand feet high. We must not stop too long at this place, but take our way along a beautiful mountain trail, winding around the steep mountain-sides, and now and again fording some mountain torrent, while again we come to some that are far too deep to ford; these have to be

IN THE LAND OF FERNS. 693 crossed by ferry. Some days are spent in traveling through a country where the whistle of a train or the click of a telegraph is never heard. We go by way of Lake Tanupo, the largest fresh-water lake in New Zealand. From thence we go to Willington, the present capital of New Zealand, and here we cross over Cook's Strait, (named in honor of the brave navigator who discovered these islands in 1769) into the South Islands. The climate here grows cooler, while here and there we see a mountain capped with perpetual snow. Along the east coast of this island are large grain fields; while on the west, lie the New Zealand Alps with their lofty summits crowned with ice and snow and numerous glaciers. Many more places might be mentioned, all bearing some beautiful Maori legend, but space will not permit me to go into detail. I wish to say a little with regard to the peculiar race of people inhabiting this coveted land. I say coveted, and it is so to the utmost. The white settlers are trying hard to get, and I am sorry to say are slowly but surely getting, the land away from its rightful owners. My close association with this people, during the past two vears, has kindled a love within my heart for them, in so much that I feel perfectly at home among them. Taking them as a whole, they are a very kind and hospitable people, and never tire in doing what they can to make one welcome, whenever occasion presents itself. They are, however, a very superstitious race, and this has come down from father to son, and we have to be very careful not to overstep these bounds. For instance, if you walk through a graveyard, you become tapou (unclean), and the people, (if they be non-''Mormons") set about to sprinkle you with clean, cold water to cleanse you from your hara (sin). When a person dies, a queer ceremony is carried out, which was partly explained in the March number of the Era, Volume IX. As soon as the spirit takes its departure, all the belongings of the deceased become tapou, and must be collected to accompany their late owner to his last resting place. I will just relate a little incident that came under my observation. It happened on July 4, 1905, therefore easy to remember. I was called to take charge of a funeral service held over the remains of an old Maori lady. The services over, we proceeded to the urupa, or graveyard. After the dedi-

694 IMPROVEMENT ERA. catory prayer was offered, and the coffin lowered into the grave, blankets, clothes, kettles and mats were thrown into the grave, on top of the coffin. We were just beginning to cast in the dirt when a Maori woman came running, all out of breath, carrying in her outstretched hand a pair of shoes, which she deposited in the hole, and smiled with the satisfaction of one who has done a duty. Later on in the day, as the evening shades were falling, an old lady was seen shoeless, gathering some sticks for fuel, and some puha for supper. When asked, ''Where are your shoes!" she replied, "I lost them at the funeral." Alas! the shoes had this time preceded their owner to the grave. This was soon noised about the small village, and peal after peal of hearty laughter was caused through the little mistake. We have many friends among the Europeans as well as among the natives, and I am pleased to state that the Era is being read with pleasure by several of them. , Gisborne, Poverty Bay.