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A Trip to Cuba

Improvement Era, vol. 7, no. 9, July 1904, pp. 684 to 686

Joseph M. Tanner

A TRIP TO CUBA. BY DR. JOSEPH M. TANNER, SUPERINTENDENT OF CHURCH SCHOOLS.

I.— FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA. Since the Spanish-American war, there has been a growing interest among the American people, in Cuba and its beautiful

climate, as well as in the commercial advantages of the island.

The city of Havana may be reached by any one of three routes. The shortest and most frequent voyage is from Tampa, on the coast of Florida. The distance is only about three hundred and fifty miles, and may be covered in twenty- four hours. Vessels leave this port three times a week, and carry those passengers who dread protracted voyages on the water. Every week a steamer of the Morgan line leaves New York, whose port is one thousand two hundred and fifteen miles from Havana. During the early fall and late spring, this route is preferred; besides, the ser- vice on the Morgan line is said to be the best. The fare from New York to Havana is forty dollars, first class, and twenty dollars, second class; and it is declared by many that the accommodations of the second class are as good as first class on the other steamers. Travelers from the west and southwest go by way of New Or- leans, from which city a boat of the Southern Pacific company -embarks every Tuesday afternoon at two o'clock. The distance is six hundred and ninety miles, and is made in about forty-eight hours. During the winter season, travel is heavy, and berths must sometimes be engaged weeks in advance. To meet the pressing demands both of passenger and freight trafllic, extra steamers are frequently sent. From this port the fare to Havana is twenty dol- lars, return trip tickets thirty-five dollars. The journey by way of

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New Orleans is of special interest because of the historical and social importance which attaches to that city. The boat left on schedule time, and made its voyage down the Mississippi, a distance of one hundred and ten miles in seven hours. The scenery on either side of the Mississippi to the Gulf, is a flat, level lowland consisting of the delta deposits of the great river. Much of the land is cultivated by the negroes who live in small frame houses along the river. The plantations do not exhibit any special degree of thrift, and the lonely aspects of the sur- rounding country, which lies below the level of the river, is such as to make it habitable to the colored folks only. From the ship, the monument on the battlefield of Chalmette may be seen, but this battlefield is not far south of New Orleans. One interesting feature is the embankment on both sides of the river, — the levees which hold the water in the spring within the limits of the stream and keep it from overflowing the lowland plantations. These levees are more than two hundred miles long on both sides, and have cost the United States government millions of dollars. Just before the river reaches the gulf, it is divided, but the main part of the stream is confined by levees within nar- row limits. The result is that the stream is rapid and deep, and scours the bottom of the channel so as to permit the largest ships afloat to pass on up to New Orleans. This navigable condition of the river means much to the future of New Orleans, in view of the certain construction of thePanama Canal in the near future. Near the river's mouth is the quarantine station where all incoming passengers must go ashore, and, if necessary, be fumi- gated by the extensive apparatus prepared for that purpose. Dur- ing the late spring and summer, passengers from South American ports are detained for weeks sometimes. Generally the doctor feels your pulse, looks you in the eyes, and lets you go by. The Mississippi is heavily charged with soil which is carried out into the gulf for miles. The stream of the river is then caught by the gulf stream, and carried in an easterly direction to the west coast of Florida. It is there deflected southward and brought out into the ocean by way of the Florida Straight, through which the Gulf Stream rushes like a mighty river into the Atlantic. The width of this stream is from forty-five to one hundred miles, and

it flows at the rate of two and a half to five miles an hour. The velocity is much greater in the center than at the edges. The steamer was literally packed. When the bell rang for supper, after we had been on the river for about five hours, there was a rush for the dining room. Not more than half could be ac- commodated at the first table, and there was much disappointment and complaint. The stewart was patient and informed the passen- gers that such a mishap should not arise again, and promised them that at all subsequent meals, everyone who cared to do so should be permitted to come to the first table. His calculations were ac- curate, for food went a begging all the way from New Orleans to Havana after the first supper. There was a strong wind from the south, and while it created scarcely a ripple on the river, it produced the wildest waves on the gulf. The ship was tossed about so suddenly and vehemently that the passengers had little warning of what was coming. They rushed for their berths, paying tribute to Neptune as they went. What happened from the time the ship entered the gulf till it came in sight of Cuba, after a voyage of forty eight hours, is merely hear- say. It was known that all contention for first place at the table had ceased, and solitude reigned everywhere. There were abroad all sorts of people. Those who most interested the passengers were American investors in lands and in commercial enterprises of Cuba. They had much to say about stock-raising, the boom prices of lands; and the small fortunes speculators had made in a remarkably short time. It was evident that the American spirit of adventure and speculation had found its way to the island. On the afternoon of the second day, and after a rough voy- age, the ship came in sight of land. To our left, the Morro Castle rose high above the bay, a silent witness of many stormy scenes in Cuban life. To the right was the picturesque city of Havana, with low stone houses painted in a variety of colors. Soon we passed the neck of the harbor and our ship anchored near the wreck of the Maine. There was a hasty examination of sanitary conditions on the ship by health officers, and we were taken by a small steam launch to the shore. The Cuban officers were courteous, and created no unnecessary delay or irritation among the passengers. Under Spanish rule it