A Visit to the Holy Land

A VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND. BY ELDER ANDREAS PETERSON, LATE PRESIDENT OF THE SCANDI- NAVIAN MISSION.

On the bright and beautiful morning of April 29, 1901, Elder Charles L. Anderson and I started from Copenhagen, Denmark, on a journey to the Holy Land, the cradle of faith, intending to visit other lands by the way, great in the ages gone by. Shortly after ten o'clock, the train began to move, carrying us southerly over the beautiful and fruitful islands of Sjeland and Falster. Taking steamer from Gedser to Warnemunde, Germany, we found on land- ing that all nature was beginning to put on her holiday garb. Boarding the train at Warnemunde, we greatly enjoyed the travel over the vast and fruitful plains of northern Germany, and reached Berlin at 8:30 p. m. On the following day, we visited the most prominent places of the city, among others, "Unter den Linden," a grand boulevard, and "Siegereichen," the road to victory, a fine alley bordered by thirty marble statues, fourteen on one side, and sixteen on the other, representing the monarchs of Germany, from Albrecht der Baer, who reigned in the twelfth century, and down to the time of 1861, when William the Great took the reins of government, which he held until his death, in 1888. We ascended the Arch of Victory, two hundred feet high, from which we obtained a glorious view of the magnificent city in all directions. We continued our journey from Berlin to Dresden in Saxony, where we visited the fine art gallery, one of the best in the world. Traveling via Vienna, Austria, through Hungary, we beheld in Banhida, on the east side of the road, on a hill, a very large

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statue in the shape of a black eagle, with outstretched wings. It was erected in 1898, in memory of Hungary's freedom from Turkey, one thousand years ago. We proceeded on our journey via Budapest, Hungary, Belgrade, in Servia, and Sophia, in Bulgaria, reaching Constantinople, May 6. During the follow- ing three days, we had ample opportunity to see the most import- ant sights of this remarkable city, with its 880,000 inhabitants. We enjoyed very much our visit to St. Sophia, called Ayiah Sofia by the Turks, which is one of the main attractions, and was originally a It was named basilica, first built by Constantino the Great,A.D. 326.

by him the Church of St. Sophia. (Holy Wisdom.)The edifice has been restored from the partial destruction which had come upon it at various times. In the sixth century, it was rebuilt at a cost of about five million dollars. Gold alone was not thought good enough for the altar, which was therefore made of a combination of gems The building contains nearly all kinds of set in silver and gold. known marble, comprising the green from Laconia, the white, black-veined Bosporus marble, the white Phrygian with its pink streaks, with others from Asia Minor and Egypt. The columns, all of marble, number one hundred and seven in all, of which sixty- seven are in the galleries. We took passage on a small steamer from the Galatian Bridge, which connects Stambula and Galatia, over the Golden Horn, over the Bosporus to Skutari, on the Asiatic side. Here we ascended Mount Bulgurlu, which rises eight hundred and fifty feet above the sea, from which place a splendid view is had of

the city, the Bosporus, the Sea of Marmora, the valleys of Thrace, and the valleys and mountains of central Asia Minor. On Thursday evening, the 9th, we boarded the French steamer Congo, arriving on the following afternoon in Smyrna. Several passengers went ashore, and we had excellent opportunities for observing the sights of that renowned city, after which we con- tinued the journey down the Archipelago. On Saturday the 11th, at 6 p. m., we passed the Isle of Patmos, which is located about forty miles off the coast of Asia Minor. The captain very gener- ously located the isle, and invited Elder Anderson and myself to use his elegant spy-glass, through which we had a complete view of the famous land where John the Revelator wrote to the seven churches of Asia, and had opened to him the glorious visions of the

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past, present and future. On Monday morning, the 13th, we reached Beyroot, on the east coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This City occupies a considerable part of the south side of St. George's Bay, which looks towards the north. The new harbor is small, and has no good mooring-quay ; hence, most steamers anchor in the open sea, and passengers are landed in small boats, and ! what a scramble on the part of those boatmen to get opportunities to land the passengers! Beyroot is the most important commercial port of Syria, and from it is exported large quantities of raw silk and co- coons, olive oil, licorice, cotton, fruits of various kinds, cattle and goats. The city, with a population of about eighty-five thou- sand people, has a very fine location, and is surrounded by luxuri- ous gardens, in which even palms are growing. Beyond the gar- dens, the mountains rise abruptly, overtopped by snow-clad sum- mits 8,500 feet high. They are furrowed by several deep ravines, but are cultivated to a considerable height. The rosy tint of the mountains, contrasted with the beautiful, deep-blue waters of the Mediterranean, presents a picturesque scene, especially by the mellow light of evening. From Beyroot, we proceeded to Damas- cus by rail. The road winds its way over mount Lebanon, its high- est point being four thousand eight hundred and eighty feet, from which elevation we enjoyed magnificent views; to the west, Beyroot and the Mediterranean; east, Anti-Lebanon; southeast, Mt. Her- mon, which towers majestically nine thousand five hundred feet over the sea. Coming to El-Mu'allaka, in El Bika or Coele-Syria, a very large and fruitful valley between Lebanon and Anti-Leba- non, we took carriage twenty-four miles north to Baalbek. A short distance from Mu'allaka, on the west side of the road, is seen the traditional tomb of the Prophet Noah. Baalbek is noted for the ruins of the Temple of the Sun, Jupiter, and Venus. We returned from Baalbek to Mu'allaka, from which latter place we continued by train over Anti-Lebanon, thence down the eastern slopes, view- ing some very romantic scenes. A few miles from Damascus, we come to the source of Abana, or, as it was called formerly by the Greeks, the golden stream. Farther down, the river Pharfar joins Abana, but before reaching Damascus the river divides, and the pne stream to the right, Abana, runs through the city, and on the east side Pharfar joins Abana again.

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Damascus lies on the west margin of the great Syrian plains, which at this time, in May, are beautiful indeed. To the south, over the plains, are seen the mountains of Haran, where Abraham and Lot once dwelt. by some, though this theory It is believed

like many other announcements in this land must be taken with much allowance, that Damascus was founded by Shem, the son of Noah, hence, it is the oldest city in the world, and surely the man- ners of a great many of the people in the city indicate a very ancient origin. We went all through the street called Strait; and the supposed house of Judas, which exists in part, was pointed out to us in which" Saul (Paul) was praying (see Acts 9.) We also visited the house of Ananias, where he received a vision from the Lord regarding Saul; saw the wall in the south side of the city, which is pointed out as the one which Paul went over, and was let down in a basket by some disciples. Even the ruins of the house, which belonged to Naaman, the captain of the host of the king of Syria, is still to be seen, on the east side of the city. Damascus has a population of one hundred and fifty thousand. The citizens follow various vocations; it is reported that about ten thousand looms, of the most primitive character, are in operation for the weaving of cotton, and woollen stuffs, which are often of silk,

great beauty. The country between Damascus and Jerusalem possesses many places of great interest to Bible readers and be- lievers, but in order to see them all, the tourist must travel on

horseback. Hence we made a contract with a professional guide to conduct us over the road over which, it is said that Paul traveled. On Friday morning, May 17, we mounted Arabian steeds, and began the journey. About four miles southwest from Damascus, we passed the place where, it is said, the Lord spoke to Paul, and told him to go to Damascus and there learn what to do. (See Acts 9:6). For two days, we traveled along the slopes of Her- mon, over mountainous ridges and deep ravines; in many places, the pathway is very precipitous. On Saturday evening, the 18th, we came to Baniyas, in the north end of the valley of Merom. Here at the foot of Mount Hermon is the source of the River Jordan. Continuing the journey, on the west side of the plains or valley of Merom, and passing by Lake Merom, in the south end. of the valley, we saw the place where Jacob met his brother Esau.

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(See Gen. 33: 4.) We visited Capernaum, by the north end of the Sea of Galilee, and went along the north and northwest shores, over the ruins of Chorazin and Bethsaida. (See Matt. 11: 21-23.) "We went by the little village, on the west shore, where Mary Mag- dalene was born, and from there, over the mountains, via Cana in Galilee, to Nazareth, the city in which the Savior spent his boy- hood days. Nazareth is situated in a basin on the south slope of the Jebeles-Sikh, a limestone formation. The appearance of the city, especially in the spring of the year, when its dazzling white walls are embosomed in a green framework of cactus-hedges, fig and

olive trees, is very pleasing. The population is reported to be ten thousand. Here was pointed out to us the rock cavern in which the angel announced the birth of the Savior to the Virgin Mary, and also the workshop of Joseph, her husband; also the synagogue where Jesus once preached, a very ancient structure. On the 22nd, we left Nazareth for Mount Tabor, on which the transfigura- tion occurred, according to the belief of some. The legend, how- ever attached itself to this, the most conspicuous mountain in Gali- lee, (2,018 feet above the sea) and, as early as the end of the sixth century, three churches had been erected there, in memory of the three tabernacles, which Peter proposed making for Jesus, Moses^ and Elias. (Mark 9: 5.) We found two monasteries on the top of the mount, one Greek and one Latin, each claiming to be on the identical spot where the trans Sguration occurred. The view from Mount Tabor is very extensive. To the northeast, in the extreme distance, is visible the blue chains of the mountains of Haran. To the far west, rises Mt. Carmel and in the extreme ;

north, presides the majestic Hermon. Below, to the south, are seen Endor, where the witch was encouraged by Saul (see I Sam. 28:8-10), and Nain, where the widow, when her son was dead, heard the consoling words of the Savior, ''Weep not." (See Luke 7:13.) After descending Tabor, we crossed the large and extensive valley or plain of Jezreel, which extends from the Mediterranean, in the west, to the River Jordan, in the east. The place where Gideon chose three hundred men, who lapped water like dogs, and with whom the Midianites were delivered into his

hands, was shown us. (See Judg. 7: 5.) We then passed over the

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mountains of Gilboa, also the plains of Dothan, where Joseph was- sold by his brothers, (see Gen. 37: 17-28) via Nabulus, (Shechem). A short distance east from Nabulus, we saw Jacob's well and Joseph's grave. We went by Bethel, where Jacob had the dream in which he beheld a ladder reaching to heaven, on which angels were ascending and descending, (see Gen. 28: 12-19) and came to Jerusalem, on Friday evening, the 24th of May. Jerusalem is situated on a somewhat sterile plateau of lime- stone, which is connected towards the north with the main range of the mountains of Palestine; and it also lies on the road leading from north to south, through the lofty central region of the country, and nearly following the watershed. The city lies 31° 47' north latitude, and 35° 15' longitude east of Greenwich, thirty-two miles from the Mediterranean, and fourteen miles from the Dead Sea. The popu- lation numbers sixty thousand, and consists of Jews, Greeks, Ar- menians, Ethiopians, Syrians, Moslems, Arabs, and Africans; the Jews, however, being in the majority. Among numerous places of note which we visited in the city are: Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre. A church, called the Holy Sepulchre, is erected over these places. It is most beautifully adorned with gold and silver and gems, costing many millions. The Mosque of Omar, erected on the grounds where the Temple of Solomon once stood, is a very costly edifice, beautifully decorated; Mount Zion, in the southern part of the city is very interesting to visit and to study. We went into the Garden of Gethsemane, at the foot of the Mount of Olives. The Garden is kept in a fine con- dition, but a visit to the place makes the heart sigh, as one reflects

upon the condition in which the Savior was found when he went there to pray. We ascended the Mount of Olives, which lies east from Jerusalem, It has an elevation of two thousand seven hun- dred and twenty- three feet above the sea; the slopes are to some extent cultivated; the principal trees are olive and fig. Viewed from the Mount of Olives, on a pleasant day, Jerusalem presents a very handsome and most beautiful appearance. It was from this mount, the Mount of Olives, that the Savior of mankind, after his resurrection, ascended into heaven, and the promise is that in a day to come, to this place will he return in power and great glory. A visit to Bethlehem is also of great interest. On the right side

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of the road going, is seen the tomb of Rachel; likewise other places of note are pointed out. After about an hour's ride, Beth- lehem, situated two thousand five hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, is reached. We visited among other places there, the church of St. Mary, also called the church of the Nativity, erected over the traditional birthplace of Christ. This is the joint property of the Greeks, Latins and Armenians. We were shown the alleged place where Jesus was born, and also his cradle; likewise the place where Joseph was told in a dream to go to Egypt with his wife, Mary, and the child, Jesus, all of which interested me very much. To Jericho, as well as to Bethelem, there is a good carriage road. To Jericho, however, three horses are needed, as the road in many places is steep. Going there, via Bethany, we saw the tomb of Lazarus, and farther on, the Apostle's Springs. We continued on by the Khan which tradition localizes as the place of the para- ble of the Good Samaritan. Closer to Jericho, we saw from a hill, in a deep ravine, the brook and place where for a time the Prophet

Elijah was fed by ravens. Coming down into the valley of Jordan, we went to the ancient Jericho, ruins now, which lies by

the springs at the foot of the hill of Karantel, to the north-west of modern Jericho. We saw the spring, Elisha's well, whose waters were healed by the prophet casting salt into the spring. (II Kings 2:21.) We took a picture of the well. We then went to the Dead Sea and took a very enjoyable bath. The water is very salt, and a person may float on it very nicely. Thence, we proceeded to the place where the Israelites crossed the river Jordan, and returned to modern Jericho, via Gilgal. From Jericho, we see the Mount of Temptation to the northwest, and, over the fine valley to the east-southeast, the mountains of Nebo, and the summit of Pisgah, from which Moses beheld the promised land. The Dead Sea, ac- cording to reports, is forty-seven miles long and its greatest breadth is nine and one half miles; greatest depth, one thousand three hundred and ten feet. The level of the Dead Sea below the level of the Mediterranean is one thousand two hundred and ninety- two feet. The height of Jerusalem above the Mediterranean is two thousand four hundred and ninety-four feet, hence the height of Jerusalem above the Dead Sea is three thousand seven hundred and eighty-six feet, and the Mount of Olives is four thousand and