The Midnight Sun

SEEING THE MIDNIGHT SUN, BY NEPHI ANDERSON, AUTHOR OF "A DAUGHTER OF THE NORTH,' "ADDED UPON," ETC. I had read many graphic descriptions of the Midnight Sun—how the "round red orb glowed like a coal in the North," how it tinged the earth and sea and sky with color; how that it was something weird and wonderful; and I therefore ex- pected it to be the sight of all sights in that northern land of wonders. In our journey across Norway by the slow-going railroad train, the days, already long, had grown longer, until at Trondhjem the darkest part of the night was just a gray shadow; and then as we steamed on through the fjords and by the islands of that strangely rugged coast, the mornings and the evenings of the lengthening days met in one contin- uous duration of light. The change came so unobtrusively, so naturally, that the wonder of it was not apparent to us. After passing the Arctic circle, we might have seen the sun at midnight if we had kept a close watch on the sky and moving clouds, but our ardor had so cooled that we did not think it worth while to keep our sleepy eyes from closing. It was now the night of the third of July. We had landed at Tromsoe a few days before. We had seen the sights of this metropolis of the north, and had been up at all hours of the day, but we had not yet seen the midnight sun. Now we concluded to gaze upon its shining face. Brother Hansen, under whose hospitable roof we were always welcome, said he would go with us as our guide into the mysteries of Midnatsolen; so his leathern apron was laid aside

646 IMPROVEMENT ERA. and the row of wooden shoe pegs terminated half way round the sole. Brother Hansen shook himself free from the leather scrapings, and was ready. The city was unusually wakeful that night. The weather was beautiful—not a cloud was to be seen. Throngs of peo- ple promenaded the streets; the wharves were crowded; and the sound was alive with boatloads of pleasure seekers. The sun shone bright and warm from the northwest and all nature revelled in its blessed rays. As we walked up the hillside above the city, our de- light increased. The grass was soft and green and scattered among it were great bunches of wild flowers of red and yel- low and blue. The birches were out in full leaf, their white trunks gleaming boldly from out the universal green. The air was full of a delicious wild odor which reminded me of the wildernesses of the Wasatch in far-off Utah. We made our way to the crest of the small island upon which Tromsoe is situated. From this elevation we could see a shining band of water on all sides. The high mountains of the mainland to the east were yet half covered with snow, and around the other sides were the lower islands which pro- tected us from the wild waves of the Arctic ocean. The red- roofed city nestled at our feet, while above it nearly at the summit of the hill lay the quieter city of the dead. Brother Hansen pointed out to us a huge cross which marked the Catholic cemetery. Since that time Brother Hansen has moved from the turmoil of the lower city and now rests in peace under the green turf on the hill; and the shadows of that great cross as it moves around the complete circle of its dial touches his grave once in the twenty- four hours of the long summer day. We were soon to see the Midnight Sun. It was nearing twelve o'clock. I had my watch out, and my pencil and note book were ready to chronicle the wonderful event on the exact moment of its occurrence. This was our first glimpse of the wonderful orb; perhaps it would be the last, and we must make the most of it. The hands of the watch crept slowly on to twelve. We all stood in a sort of awe. Every- thing was still and nature was asleep—yet it was broad,

SEEING THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 647 bright day. Slowly, slowly the minutes ticked, and then it was midnight! Then we looked at the sun. There it was in the north about as if it were half an hour above the horizon. It sailed on quietly about its business. It cut no capers for us. It did not turn yellow nor green nor red. It did not color the sea; not even the snow-capped mountains were tinged. At midnight it reached its lowest point and then it began to as- cend into the northeastern sky. It was so bright that it pained our eyes to look at it, though there was very little heat in its rays. Yes, it must be the same sun that we had seen all our days at home. We could see no difference and it was somewhat disappointing. Hark! From below comes strains of .music. A boat- load of musicians are rowing out to a steamer in the harbor. How their instruments glisten in the sun! See! up the tall- est mast floats a speck of color, and as the breeze unfurls it, we see it is the stars and stripes. On board is a company of American tourists on their way to the North Cape. And then of course—it is the Fourth of July! The midnight sun and the glorious Fourth together! Why, it is quite grand after all, and as we turn to go down the hill we give three rousing cheers in honor of the day and time.