--- title: Improvement Era description: Monthly periodical of the Mormon church, 1897 onward. This library holds the issues of November 1897 to December 1930. authors: - Rust, Dave collections: - periodicals tags: - magazine - improvement-era periodical: Improvement Era volume: 31 number: 9 published: 1928-07 publisher: Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Associations publisher_place: Salt Lake City language: en type: magazine reference: "Dave Rust, “A Pioneer Tourist,” *Improvement Era* 31, no. 9 (July 1928): 752–756." source: url: https://archive.org/details/improvementera3109unse transcription: Transcribed from the Internet Archive scan of each issue (the item for each issue is named in the issue's own source); unnumbered advertising leaves are omitted, printed page numbers are kept as page markers. identifier: improvementera3109unse start_page: 752 end_page: 756 rights: status: public-domain basis: US publication 1930 or earlier (published 1928-07) source: https://archive.org/details/improvementera3109unse publication_year: 1928 note: The Internet Archive item metadata carries a blanket "© Copyright by Intellectual Reserve, Inc." notice. The library owner judged it inapplicable because this issue was published in 1928, before 1931; a scan-level notice does not restore copyright. --- # A Pioneer Tourist A Pioneer Tourist By Dave Rust (Albert Tissandicr, a French traveler, visited Utah and the region north of the Grand Canyon during the summer of 1885. The following excerpt is a translation from his book cf travels, Six Mois Aux Etats Unis.) The regions of Southern Utah, the province of the "Mormons," and of the Kaibab Plateau, in northern Arizona, are almost unknown to Americans, much less to Europeans. Major Powell, director of the Geological Survey at Washington, dur- ing fifteen years, has made numerous ex- plorations in this curious country, and by his grace and kindly counsel I was able to make this remarkable journey. From Salt Lake City the railroad con- ducted me in thirteen hours to Milford, where the grand excursion really com- menced. This small journey on rails in the "Mormon" country did not resemble any other. After having passed the valley and borders of Utah Lake, there was- in view only the perspective of arid and sandy deserts. The stations and stops were very primitive. One of them, by the name of "Juab/' the most remarkable, perhaps, was composed of six or seven wooden houses. The railroad had given it birth. At the close of the day we dined with the conductor and his aides at one side of the baggage car. A single traveler, Mr. Lund, kept me company in the train. The cooking was done in a frying pan. If the provisions of the employees were modest, they were none the less offered with a good heart. The recompense demanded was insig- nificant. The severe panorama of mountains and plains developed drearily enough. At nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Mil- ford. A little house constructed of planks was the hotel. At seven in the morning, with Mr. Lund, my amiable companion. I entered the post-wagon which was- to take us to Silver Reef. The vehicle was without springs, the cover had a hole in the top, and it was impossible to lean back in order to get a few moments' repose during the intense heat of the day — really a tiresome journey. The roads were mere tracks. It is necessary to refrain from writing about the number of bumps experienced and the grievous state of our persons, unrecog- nizable on account of the clouds of dust produced by the wheels of the wagon. Twelve hours we passed thus without much charm, until we arrived finally at Cedar City, a "Mormon" village, which was certainly an oasis after the long, monotonous route pursued since morning. This village had lovely avenues planted with trees, brick houses and enclosed yards filled with fruits and vegetables. Rivulets of living water descend from the moun- tain. Mr. Lund was a "Mormon." He knew all the inhabitants and his first care was to conduct me to the bishop of Cedar, who gave us entertainment for the night. The bishop was cultured. His wife appeared to be intelligent. It was she who served us at the table. The home, irreproachably neat, served as an asylum for the rare travelers who pass through. It was also the telegraph office. There were carpets everywhere, papers lay on the table. The young daughters of the bishop, to close the evening, played on the organ. One of the boys sang some romantic songs with the girls. We visited several "Mor- mon" farmers at Cedar. In all the houses I noted the same order and neatness and comfort — unbelievable in a country so far removed from civilization. It was neces- sary to depart at three in the morning. Mr. Lund accompanied me. We said adieu to the good bishop and his family. Every one arose to wish us the traditional "bon voyage." About one o'clock we arrived at Silver Reef and entered the grand rocks of Utah. A PIONEER TOURIST 753 Certainly the character of this country does not resemble in the least any of the countries of Europe. The vegetation lies on the sandy soil of green, white, rose, yellow, gold, of the most brilliant hues. The mountains, mostly of sandstone, are vivid with similar colors. The diverse tints shading from one to the other give a strange, indescribable effect. I stopped a day at Silver Reef, a small town of about four hundred inhabitants from various parts of the world, Chinese, Indians, Irish, Canadians, Americans, even some Sisters of Charity. Silver Reef was on a boom because of silver mines dis- covered there several years before. Mr. Allen, director of one of the mines, wished me to visit his. In the six years that it had been exploited it had produced about $18,000,000. - Before bidding me good-bye, Mr. Lund presented me to the guide who was to conduct me to Kanab. He was a Canadian who spoke French well, educated in Can- ada in a family of relatively easy means. He was a curious type. He had dissipated all his allowance. After shipping as a sailor, he became a miner. In San Fran- cisco he grew rich, but was ruined three times in a few years through speculation and was reduced to a common laborer. He was then a livery-man, and was thoroughly convinced that he would make his fortune a fourth time. We installed ourselves in a wagon as uncomfortable as that which brought me to Silver Reef, and the roads were not less bad. Happily, the country is magnificent. The rocks of the Virgin River are of rose color and silver gray, and I regarded with surprise their tooth-shape silhouettes in a thousand fantastic shapes. We passed through the village of Toquerville, all the houses of which are hidden under trees and vines. The solitudes commenced again. Throughout the journey we were in the desert. We encountered the Vermilion Cliffs, a long chain of red sandstone moun- tains which dominate the grand prairie. As we journeyed into the night, the moon- light illuminated all these grand scenes. At mid-night, our horses fatigued by their fifteen hours of travel, we stopped at Pipe Spring. In spite of the advanced hour of the night, we were graciously re- ceived. The gate to the fort was opened at our call, and we spent the night en- veloped in our blankets. The next day at noon we arrived at Kanab. Kanab is situated on the bank of a river, almost always dried Mp. The great rocks of red sandstone bound the village on one side. It had a population of about five hundred souls. Isolation was complete, but by industry, they were connected with the most fortunate cities of their coun- try. The telegraph was installed here. Each house was in an enclosure surrounded with a hedge of yellow rose bushes. The streets were bordered with acacias. The "Mormons" love gardens and tend them with great care. Nathan Adams, who was to be my fu- ture guide, extended me hospitality. There was no hotel in Kanab. It was necessary to lodge with an inhabitant or camp out in the open. Kanab was the central point at which to outfit to make excursions into the Grand Canyon country. My first journey in company with Na- than had for its objective Mount Trum- bull and the Toroweap, a trip of about seven days. At the single village store we bought some preserved foods, and other things; there was scarcely any variety or possible choice. Nathan led the way with his son who was a useful aide. We had for ourselves three horses and another one for our baggage. The regular life of the tourist organized itself about like this: Get up at four in the morning, breakfast at five, with the table-cloth on the grass. We had bacon, preserved salmon, water, and bread which Nathan made three times a day. The tired animals had nothing to eat but meagre grass and sometimes hardly any water. Several times we passed an entire day with- out any drinkable water. The heat made the water we carried very hard to drink. But the originality and splendor of the country compensates largely for the want of complete comfort; one becomes rapidly accustomed to these small miseries. On leaving Kanab, it was necessary to 754 IMPROVEMENT ERA go back by way of Pipe Spring, one of the rare spots where good water is found. The inhabitants had already shown me hospitality; this time I was received with marked cordiality by the mistress of the house and her daughters. If I was as- tonished at Cedar City by the welcome and attentions of the bishop, I was much more so at Pipe Spring. I wish to be sincere. These "Mormon" women were distinguished and cultured in spite of the fact that they were, in reality, only peasants living in a savage and lonely place. In the depths of our French country, in the least known corners of our provinces, our fellow-citizens of the fields are a thousand times less solitary than these people of Utah and Arizona, and yet I can say they are often less civilized. All about Pipe Spring herds of cattle pasture, watched over by cowboys, hardy young men habi- tuated to privations. I said good-bye to my gracious hostesses. Several cowboys wished me good health and "fresh water to drink," while helping me to mount my horse. We left the high escarpment of the Ver- milion Cliffs to enter a real desert of desolate aspect. The horses traveled with difficulty in the powdery sands. The least breeze raised at a distance small whirl- winds. Under our feet numerous flowers grew — but it was the month of June, a little later everything would be burnt and nothing left but dreary dryness. We en- countered some antelope, and a troupe of wild horses. At the close of the day, we emerged from the sands for we were ap- proaching Mount Trumbull. The num- erous clinkers which covered the earth attested to the disorders of past cycles. The aspect of the route changes, and one can see a sort of sea of lava relatively recent. A mountain covered with meagre verdure borders the coulees which are black as the Styx. We descended with difficulty from all these rocks, leading our horses. Most of the horses in this country are not shod; in consequence, the clinkers bruised their feet. However, there was no other route to follow to reach the sandy valley of the Toroweap close to the canyon. Long and relatively straight, this valley is enclosed by colossal rocks of surprising colors. That evening we had no reason to complain at our encampment at the foot of a wall like a fortress. Shaded by an old cedar, we were on a plateau of rounded sandstone. The scene changed but it was* none the less stunning. Here at my feet was the grand precipice of the Toroweap, at the foot of which flowed the Colorado. It was a matchless spectacle of erosion over three thousand feet deep. We were com- pelled to make detours along the rim and at each instant were presented more and more admirable views. We could not camp long on the Toroweap plateau be- cause of shortage of water. Nathan and his son discovered a little stagnant rain water in a crevice of the rocks but only our horses could drink it. We returned to Kanab by the same route in order to organize an excursion to the Kaibab. Upon arriving at the village, we were told that the Indians who often camped in the vicinity, and among whom I counted on finding a guide, had departed to hunt deer in the forests of the Kaibab. They would not come back for a month. I could not wait so long and commenced to wonder if I would be able to continue my journey. Nathan knew the country well but he did not wish to take the re- sponsibility of conducting me alone into this wilderness. He said, "I must have an Indian with me; only they know how to orient themselves in the virgin forests." The "Mormons" advised me to go straight to the camp of the Indians, probably near a spring a long day's journey from Kanab. Once there, Nathan, who knew some words of the Ute language, could certainly find a guide. I was satisfied to follow this ad- vice, and we left at once. The same evening at sunset we arrived at Mangum Spring where we found the camp as indicated by the "Mormons." It was an improvised installation of eight or nine tents in a clearing; about twenty In- dians with their squaws and children. Their tents were made from branches cut from neighboring trees, with a poor piece of cloth or an animal skin covering these simple shelters. We camped near the In- A PIONEER TOURIST 755 dians to get the benefit of the spring. Our horses fraternized with those of the savages and disappeared into the underbrush. Near us under the pines were two shacks of Americans; they had some cattle, and like the Indians lived in the forest with their families. After supper the Indians paid me a visit. I gave them a little of Nathan's bread and some sips of coffee. The children, almost naked, approached me. They were timid, but a few grains of sugar sufficed to calm them. Nathan explained as best he could my presence and the purpose of my trip. The next morning I returned the visit and saw their women, who, unfortunately, are rarely pretty. During this time Na- than was getting information from a guide. Under his persuasions, a young Indian who was making his toilet in his tent decided to accompany us>. His name was John Panickos. His face was painted. I cannot think of a more handsome guide. He demanded $1.25 a day for himself and horse. That was agreed at once, and we started immediately. Through the forest we traveled for two days and arrived at Point Sublime. It is one of the most interesting on the Kai- bab. I stopped, dazzled and fascinated. When contemplating such a picture, I cannot believe that I am really on the earth. It is a consecrated country. For several days I experienced the same senti- ments of admiration. Between the colos- sal fissures I saw from time to time the Colorado, its waters flowing beneath the precipices and lost in fantastic bends at a depth of 1800 meters below me. I made a number of sketches. During the hours that I was drawing, our Indian armed with a flint-lock musket hunted deer. Thanks to him, we had plenty of choice meat. We descended, through inextricable forests, the east side of the plateau into the Pagump valley. Here two young Americans living in a small cabin were taking care of horses and cattle. We were for them a distraction: an Indian, a "Mor- mon," a Frenchman and four horses ap- pearing suddenly. They ran to meet us, very happy to talk with mortals descended, as if by enchantment, from the Kaibab 600 meters above their cabin. Nathan introduced me. "This," said he, "is a Parisian who has come to sketch the canyons of Arizona." I showed my col- lection of rough sketches. On seeing them, Messrs. Gibson and Gillett were filled with enthusiasm. "Stay with us," they said, "we have a treasure to show you. We will lend you horses while yours rest." This lively friendliness charmed me. The treas- ure was a view of the Marble Canyon, which Nathan did not know. We accepted their proposition, — one of the best excur- sions of the whole trip. John, our Indian, seeing that we could return from here to Kanab without his as- sistance, disappeared in the forest with his horse without saying good-bye and with- out obtaining the money which was due him. Nathan had said that he would pay him at Kanab. That satisfied him; he had confidence. Our hosts desired to show us their herds of cattle and horses. "We have been for- tunate this season, " said Mr. Gibson, "we have branded 500 calves. If this con- tinues for a few years, we will have enough dollars to return your visit in Paris and to finish the rest of our existence in one of the large American cities." Our adieus were very affectionate. On the return, we camped at Cane Spring. In the morning about four, a band of horses driven by a cowboy rushed in with a gallop. After having assuaged their thirst, they returned to the desert range. The ef- fect was startling. The young cowboy remained behind, and asked permission to accompany me. This was a favor easy to accord. Nathan in the meantime was baking our daily bread. I left Cane Spring with Nathan and my cowboy. We made a pretty hard stage, five hours in the desert under the full blaze of the sun, before arriving at House-rock, a spring almost as solitary as that which we left behind, except that here we found a cabin occupied by an old man and a young boy. My last night in Arizona I spent at Navajo Well, a most solitary spot. Here we found, between two rocks, a trough 756 IMPROVEMENT ERA filled with water. It was a sort of na- tural cistern. People came here to drink for there was a long journey ahead over the sands. This was an open place. The red walls tinted the horizon. The last rays of daylight faded little by little. The moon commenced to give us light. From the sages the crickets gave us a final con- cert merged with plaintive cries of doves roosting in the stunted cedars and the tinkling of our horse-bells, a charming diversion in the quiet of the wild plain. Back to Kanab, I had to prepare to re-enter civilization at Salt Lake City. Like the rest, this last portion of my trip will always be interesting. From Kanab to Panguitch the country is not less in- credible than that of Arizona. It is even more curious, more extraordinary, with- out being so grand. The colors of the rocks of Southern Utah are absolutely ex- traordinary. I asked myself if, in reality, I was not dreaming these things which I drew and tried to describe. Near Marysvale, I found more mag- nificent scenes in the mountains. I was reminded of the rocky defiles of the Pyrenees; the same vegetation and similar cascades. At Monroe, the same as at Marys- vale, the verdure had a gay and refreshing appearance. The "Mormon" families in these re- mote regions lived after the manner of the ancient pastoral people. They were often Kanab, Utah. entirely isolated. Only a few books, and some maps hung on the wall of the com- mon room. Rarely these solitary farm- ers received news from the outside; there were not many letters expected. The post-man passed in his primitive carriage, in which he had place for a traveler; but he did not often make distribution at the houses. At some point along his route, a wooden box was attached to a post, to receive letters and parcels. The "Mor- mon" who hoped for news often rode a long distance to see if something addressed to him might be in this box. The "Mormons" have a lively faith in their religion. They receive baptism and in other ways follow as closely as possible the biblical customs. After my curious sojourn in the pro- vince of Utah and Arizona, I can assert that the "Mormons" are hospitable, kind to strangers, mild and well instructed. Most of them take an interest in affairs of civil- ization. I often think with pleasure of the cordial and touching reception; they received me as a brother — what more could I ask? Upon returning to Salt Lake City, I was glad to see again some kindly people who had aided me with ad- vice— the Governor of the Territory, M. Murray, and Andre l'Orme, attache of the French Consulate. My adieus soon put an end to this, since I had to rush into other adventures and remain two days in a new sleeping-car. The Neglected Grave of a "Mormon" Pioneer Was it for this he strove: This unfrequented path I see, This grave unkept, sunken, rude, Unmarked save for a blackened board, Symbol of man's ingratitude? Men of today, I understand it not. Was this the end for which he toiled and fought?