--- title: Improvement Era description: Monthly periodical of the Mormon church, 1897 onward. This library holds the issues of November 1897 to December 1930. authors: - Romney, O. D. collections: - periodicals tags: - magazine - improvement-era periodical: Improvement Era volume: 28 number: 4 published: 1925-02 publisher: Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Associations publisher_place: Salt Lake City language: en type: magazine reference: "O. D. Romney, “On the West Coast,” *Improvement Era 28, no. 4 (February 1925)*: 380–385." source: url: https://archive.org/details/improvementera2804unse transcription: Transcribed from the Internet Archive scan of each issue (the item for each issue is named in the issue's own source); unnumbered advertising leaves are omitted, printed page numbers are kept as page markers. identifier: improvementera2804unse start_page: 380 end_page: 385 rights: status: public-domain basis: US publication 1930 or earlier (published 1925-02) source: https://archive.org/details/improvementera2804unse publication_year: 1925 note: The Internet Archive item metadata carries a blanket "© Copyright by Intellectual Reserve, Inc." notice. The library owner judged it inapplicable because this issue was published in 1925, before 1931; a scan-level notice does not restore copyright. --- # On the West Coast ON THE WEST COAST A Trip to San Francisco, Los Angeles, Yosemite and Lake Tahoe By O. D. Romney The day was perfect, after a recent rain, and as we bade adieu to friends at the station and got aboard the train, we soon lost sight of them and tried to enter into the real enjoyment of the trip. We had never before traveled on the Western Pacific, as many times as we have visited California. We soon detoured from the main line. The mighty waves of the Great Salt Lake had washed out five miles or more of their road, on the south shore of the Lake. Every country has its barren waste or desert. Fortunately the night shaded this part of the road, so we saw but little of it, and our night's rest was dis- turbed but little with the dust and heat of the desert. Through the Feather River canyon, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles, is a most interesting ride. The high mountains on either side, covered with stately pines and the clear stream below brought a gentle breeze into our train which we so much enjoyed while listening to one of the officers on the train telling his story of the 46 tunnels we pass through from Salt Lake to San Francisco and of the gold diggers' hardships in 1849, but afterwards made rich with the $120,000,000 of gold taken out of the hills where we were then traveling. The little town of Rich was pointed out to us, which at that time was the largest in the state of California, a population of 2,000 and only eighteen surviving souls being there today. The stone marker was plainly seen by the roadside where the mother lay who gave birth to the first child born in California. The largest power plant west of the Mississippi river, we saw. It furnished light for the great city of San Francisco, over two hundred miles away. In less than one hour we descended 4,840 feet into the beautiful Sacra- mento Valley; from then on, the ride is always interesting, for the golden grain was ripe, and the cows by the thousands were lying lazily in the meadows and formed a picture we shall long remember. Our day's travel was ended after crossing the Bay, on a new boat to us, whose speed was far greater than any of the rest. A taxi from the Ferry to the hotel is less than a ten minutes' ride. The two days spent in San Francisco were especially interesting. At least it proved so to us, for we had Uncle John and Aunt Susan to enjoy the pleasure of sight seeing and, remembering, as we all did, the city lying low in ashes and buildings crumbled to the earth by an earthquake which visited that city less than twenty years ago. Now it is a city of new buildings, and the fear of earthquake has long since vanished, so higher and more beautiful buildings than ever are erected, and it is considered the strongest commercial city of the West. ON THE WEST COAST 381 An interesting sight to everybody is the sailing of a great vessel. We witnessed this from the Matsonia wharf. The usual paper ribbons of every color were held by passengers on board, and friends on the wharf below, and during sweet strains of music, they were torn asunder. Uncle John expressed it as a very touching scene, yet a most beautiful one, for a greater variety of beautiful dresses and a richer profusion of flowers could hardly be seen anywhere. 'We also visited the Golden Gate Park and marveled, for new buildings had been erected and the grounds were no less attractive than ever before. Seal lions out on the Clift rocks have almost lost their charm, since they have a family of them in a plunge close to the Aquarium. The dis- gruntled father plays with the little ones and often sends them off the rocks with the mother, and we imagine he dares them ot come up again. The Aquarium is unsurpassed. No greater variety and no more beau- tiful fish of every color can be seen anywhere. From the inception of the pollywog, to the full grown fish, you may study and wonder how it is possible to even care for the snakes as we saw them crawl in the grass and over the rock in the picturesque lake where swan and ducks swam. The Arts and Science building adjoining, we next visited, and O how amazed we were to see the work of the artist so perfectly done that we could hardly discern where the canvas upon which he had painted nearly every wild animal and bird of the forest, connected with the work below, where stood, beautifully arranged the deer, the lion, the bear, and birds of every color, forming pictures so real that we shall always remember them. Our ride cut to the Clift House, and a walk of a mile or more along the shore with popcorn to eat, we did enjoy; and afterward, a rest at the hotel seemed so fitting after a real day of sightseeing. The evening train of June 12, we took for Los Angeles. It only meant a pleasant sleep of a few hours before we were there, and our rooms at the Clark we found quite satisfactory. A day at the Catalina Islands we enjoyed, for we had never been there before. Of course, we had formed some idea of what we might see, for the story had been told us many times that we were missing much in not going. So Monday, June 15, Aunt Pearl, Uncle John and Aunt Susan accompanied us. An hour's ride by train and two hours' sailing over a smooth sea brought us to the shore of the world-famous Catalina Islands. After our inner-man was satisfied with a good meal, we got aboard a glass bottom boat and looked into the bottom of the sea at least a distance of thirty feet andj, among the seaweed and rich golden foliage, we saw fish of various colors swimming lazily about. Soon a native dived into the water below, and as grace- fully as the fish, he floated with eyes wide open. He soon came back to us to sell his souvenirs. Altogether, it was a pleasing sight. We afterwards moved about the little town of Avalon to see their hundreds of pretty little summer homes. The "Blue Bird" and "Ana Laurie" 382 IMPROVEMENT ERA we thought so pretty and inviting with their flowers and rich lawns. The day was gone, and we were back before we knew it, getting the rest we so much needed to prepare us for our trip to Yosemite. We did not go, however, before we had visited the famous Ambassador hotel and enjoyed one of their choice luncheons. Just as the sun was fading in the west we started on a walk of many blocks, admiring the homes of the millionaires, and O how beautiful! Ocean Park has no charms for us, yet it would not do to pass it by, so a ride out there we took, and even that was dry and uninviting. Everything was scorched and dry, through the long absence of rain; even the flowers were hidden with dust. On the morning of June 1 7, we awoke at Merced, had breakfast and in the last Pierce Arrow of the big party going to Yosemite, we four and a speechless young guy took seats in the car and were soon speeding on our way. We thought the fellow at the wheel a real chauffeur, but a guy indeed, for he, too, had nothing to say. No doubt he thought the same of us, for as we jumped from the car that night we couldn't feel to give him a tip, for he hadn't earned it. Before entering into the beauties of the forest, let me say we increased our tips double to our driver the following day, for he was full of information and gave it freely so that the heat of the sun and the dust of the forest we almost forgot. Now to the task of describing some of the things we saw, after riding nearly a hundred miles and then entering the Oldest National Park of this great country! Our driver told us the roads were never surveyed, but followed the trail which Clark, the discoverer, had made. Whether surveyed or no, they are wonderful pieces of engineering. More turns and curves to the hundred yards, and a more continuous high climb than we had ever made! Remember when we started on this drive we were little above the level of the sea, and reached as high as 9,000 feet, and here we saw the largest and the oldest forest trees of the world. Grizzly Giant, as it is known, is the largest single tree. One hundred feet in circumference and over two hundred feet high. Its lowest limb is ninety feet from the ground and measures nine feet in diameter and is reported to be the oldest living thing on earth. Some say six thousand years. It is protected in its old age with a wire fence. It's remarkable, when you think that if you peel a few inches of bark around a tree it will die. Yet Telescope Tree, a famous one of the Park, has its heart burned out and still it lives, but retains its bark which is the sap of its life. In the cool of the morning, Yosemite Transportation Automobile is the only way to travel, for the drivers are required inspection by the Government for health and skill. Therefore, a feeling of safety never leaves you, although many dangerous points you turn every hour. Luncheon we took at a beautiful tavern facing the little valley, looking like our meadows at home; but the scene is changed as we ON THE WEST COAST 383 look upward at the towering pinetrees giving restful shade to the weary traveler. At schedule time we leave, and continue on through the Mariposa Grove of big trees, some of which just described, but of the many other wonderful things to relate space will not permit more to be said regard- ing their grandeur and unsurpassed beauty and majesty, as they tower into the sky above. Never before did we travel so far and look heaven- ward, and maybe you can imagine how high we had reached, when we tell you that the attendant said, as we stepped out of our car at Glacier Hotel, and asked if our wraps, etc., would be all right to leave in the car, "Yes, we are too near heaven for any thieves to be here." No country in the world has more beautiful hotels, and here on Glacier point as pretty as any, and our only regret was we could not stay longer than to rest for nearly an hour. We had already visited Artist and Inspiration Point and now the most famous spot of the world, Glacier Point, where passengers enjoy the view and take pictures. As you stand 3,200 feet on the edge of the Cliff of solid rock and look at Yosemite Valley below, you become dizzy, and the story is told that some have to be carried back, they lose the use of their limbs through fear. No air plane will ever give a more beauti- ful picture than we saw as we looked into the distance below and saw automobiles running about as mere specks, and the roof of dwellings appeared not larger than your hat. After we saw Fire Rock to the left, and El Capitan, rising a sheer precipice to the height of 7,360 feet, Clouds Rest, in the dis- tance; Half Dome; Sentinel Dome, just a mile from Glacier Point and around the Cliff; Three Graces, and Bridal Veil Falls, we then started on our descent, a distance of twenty-six miles on a winding road through the beautiful pines, taking two hours to reach the picturesque floor of Yosemite Valley and could see the place where we stood two hours before, imagining we were in an airplane. Our tents 45 and 47 were soon pointed out to us, directly at the foot of Glacier Point, which we could see better lying down than standing up, for that mountain of solid rock stood perfectly erect above us. Now let me say, lest I forget, that the fire-fall, promptly at nine o'clock every evening, is something that can hardly be described; and, would you believe that one calling, from below, the signal to commence is heard one mile above and that, as a sweet soloist sings some beautiful song, balls of fire descend from the Cliff above burst- ing into increased brilliancy as they strike the ledges below! Our stay of one day, as we intended, at Camp Curry in Yose- mite Valley, we soon decided should be at least three days, so arrange- ments were made for an extended visit. Our tents were among the best, and, we thought, better located than many of the several hundred scattered as they were from one end to the other of the green, level valley eleven miles in length and a mile or two wide with the beautiful Merced river running through it. Is 384 IMPROVEMENT ERA it a wonder that we were so anxious to stay longer, when fifteen hun- dred people are fed at a single meal, and the very best of food pro- vided, and sports of every kind furnished? Out of the roof of the spacious dining room, beautiful pine trees are seen hundreds of feet high, and our table was often at the base of one of these trees. How can I describe the grounds better than to say they are like walking on a heavy velvet carpet with the dry foliage fallen from the trees above and when sprinkled, as they are every morning, it becomes easy and comfortable to the feet. The thousand chairs scattered about during the day form an amazing sight, with guests dressed in every color of summer attire, reading and gossiping to their hearts' content. And some only with a bathing suit on, for the great plunge in the center of the grounds is daily enjoyed by men, women and children. Before the shades of evening come, these wicker-chairs are arranged for the concert which is equal to any you may hear in any great city, and is free to all the guests. The camp- fire is a beautiful sight and much enjoyed during the entertainment, and no less interesting are the lectures given regarding the wonders of the Park, and the movies, of course, are always enjoyed, especially by Mama, Uncle John and Aunt Susan. Three days' rest we took at Camp Curry, where 1,500 people are cared for in tents, furnished with every comfort to make camping-life pleasant and most enjoyable. The life of the Camp starts every day with the rising sun peeping over the unsurmountable cliffs of solid granite and bringing a feeling of admiration into every soul for the handiwork of God which surrounds one on every side. During the heat of the day, the giant pine trees furnish shade for the merry pleas- ure-seekers, and seldom will you see a face without a pleasant smile, and so often a kind word is spoken. Especially did we notice this the morning we left, when the hostess of the famous camp came to the side of each car and shook hands with everybody, hoping to meet them again jome day. So our happy crowd moved on, as others were coming to take our place, and it will be so until the cold winds of October may drive them away. A ride by auto and train for a hundred miles brought us back to Merced, our place of starting on this memorable trip through the National Park of Yosemite, and I am sure our praise for that beautiful place shall often be heard. We have many times enjoyed a ride in a parlor car, but never do I remember a more beautiful one than this, our ride to San Francisco from Merced, and the cool of the day made it so enjoyable and such a change from what we had in going through the Park. We always enjoy leaving San Francisco in the evening, for there is no better time to see the congested condition of a crowded city, and especially at the Ferry, where boats are loaded and unloaded as if by magic. Your baggage is taken by a "Red Cap" as you reach the Ferry, and a half hour later delivered to you in your sleeper. This ON THE WEST COAST 385 is one time we had to take an upper berth; but, with the assistance of a ladder, the act of climbing up was gracefully done by both Aunt Susan and Mama. So far as I was concerned, I heard no more from then until 6 o'clock the next morning, when we arrived at Truckee. All credit is due, however, to Uncle John and myself that no one rolled out of bed, for we slept on the outside. I thought more than once, however, of the experience a fellow related at breakfast one morning in Camp Curry when he dreamed he had fallen off of Point Glacier 3,000 feet into the valley below. Fortunately it happened that he discovered he had only rolled out of bed. From Truckee we took the most expensive ride, and on one of the most poorly equipped trains in the world, for they actually did slop before we reached Lake Tahoe, a distance of 16 miles to get up additional steam to pull us up, so steep was the grade. With it all, however, we arrived safely, and had an unusual breakfast — everything one's heart could desire. This made us think Lake Tahoe Tavern a dandy place to stop, and especially so when we saw our rooms con- nected as they were by a hall, a bath room, and a veranda for our own use overlooking the largest fresh water lake in the world — at least at the high altitude of 6,300 feet. We spent the entire day, June 25, in a ride on this famous lake, whose greatest depth we were told is 1,740 feet. So clear is the water that we could see the bottom at every wharf as we were anchored, and fish in countless numbers, something we had never witnessed before. We were all pleased that we had taken this trip of 76 miles, for in no other way could we esti- mate the expanse of water covering 200 square miles as does Lake Tahoe — larger than our entire Salt Lake Valley. No fear of a dam breaking out, for it is surrounded by beautiful mountains on the Cal- ifornia side, and much appreciated after seeing the almost barren mountains of Nevada on the other side. When we returned to the Tavern that beautiful evening, just as the sun was setting in the west, and smelled the sweet scented pines, we thought it was surely the work of an artist in locating the Tavern and designing such a group of beautiful buildings where guests can get real rest; and Aunt Susan was reminded, by the picturesque sur- roundings, of dear old Sweden, and no strong persuasion will she need to bring her back here again. Of all the beautiful places we had been visiting she seemed to like this the best. Even the little chip- munks are so tame that they climb on your lap. A little girl had two on her lap scrapping over the crumbs she was feeding them. As nice as this appeared to some, we avoided having the little things crawl all over us. Our eighteen days' pleasure trip of fine weather and a visit to places we had never been before, with such sport-like fellows as Uncle John and Aunt Susan, who were equal to the best and drank in the pleasure of every moment, made us feel to say and without exaggera- tion, it has been one of our very best trips and will linger in our minds as long as any.