---
title: Improvement Era
description: Monthly periodical of the Mormon church, 1897 onward. This library holds the issues of November 1897 to December 1930.
authors:
  - Hewlett, Frank J.
collections:
  - periodicals
tags:
  - magazine
  - improvement-era
periodical: Improvement Era
volume: 16
number: 6
published: 1913-04
publisher: Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Associations
publisher_place: Salt Lake City
language: en
type: magazine
reference: 'Hewlett, Frank J., "In Sunny Africa III," *Improvement Era* 16, no. 6 (April 1913): 548–556.'
source:
  url: https://archive.org/details/improvementera1606unse
  transcription: Transcribed from the Internet Archive scan of each issue (the item for each issue is named in the issue's own source); unnumbered advertising leaves are omitted, printed page numbers are kept as page markers.
  identifier: improvementera1606unse
start_page: 548
end_page: 556
rights:
  status: public-domain
  basis: US publication 1930 or earlier (published 1913-04)
  source: https://archive.org/details/improvementera1606unse
  publication_year: 1913
  note: The Internet Archive item metadata carries a blanket "© Copyright by Intellectual Reserve, Inc." notice. The library owner judged it inapplicable because this issue was published in 1913, before 1931; a scan-level notice does not restore copyright.
---

# In Sunny Africa III

<!-- page:548 -->

In   Sunny Africa

BY FRANK    I.   HEWLETT. PRESIDENT OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN MISSION

                         III   — The Transvaal
                                                       —
     The spirit of 76 was ripe in South Africa, Boer versus
Britain.   Tn many instances, no doubt, it was a case of "might
makes right." The Dutch people appealed to Great Britain for
justice, and asked that reparation be made them for the many
wrongs that had been        inflicted   upon them.   We will not even
make the attempt to explain the many reasons for their appeal,
but suffice it to state that their cries went unheeded, and instead
of a "call to arms," the hardy Boers determined to blaze a trail
to the land of the North.
     Indignation meetings had been held in every little town.
and cattle camp on the Karoe. The old Dutch spirit was up
the spirit of the men that cut the dykes. The same spirit as that
of the American colonies in 1776. Rebellion was useless. But a
vast wilderness stretched to the north of them.     The nomad life
was congenial to them, and in their large bullock carts in which
some of their kinsmen had pioneered the way to the land of the
Zulu and the Basutos, they had vehicles, homes, forts, all in
one.   Cart after cart was loaded ud. the huge teams were inspanned, the women were seated inside of the canvas room, the
men. with their long-barreled cams, walked alongside, and the
great exodns was begun. Their herds and flocks accompanied the
migration, and the sturdv Boer children hel^d tn drive and round
them up at night. One little boy of ten with clothes all tattered

<!-- page:549 -->

IN SUNNY AFRICA                                                      549

and torn cracked his long whip, made from the toughest hide,
behind the motley string of oxen. He was a small item in that
singular crowd, but could the veil of the future have been drawn
aside for a moment to show us the man that was more than any
other destined to mold the political
                          —
fortune of South Africa the sturdy
little fellow cracking the whip was
Stephanus Paul Kruger.   It was a
strange exodus, comparable only in
modern times to the travels of the
"Mormons," in their search for Utah,
to them the land of Canaan, flowing
with milk and honey, under the leadership of an equally great leader,
Brigham Young.
    A large part of the Boer pioneers
settled in   The Transvaal, and   scattered over a space as large as Germany
and larger than Pennsylvania, New
York and^ the New England states.
      The government of the Transvaal,
after the first war, was left in the
                                          7 r TE   LATE PREST. KRUGER
hands of a triumvirate, but after one
year, Kruger became President, an office which he continued to hold for
eighteen years.    His career as ruler
vindicates the wisdom of that wise but
unwritten provision of the United                                            ad?
States by which it is understood by all                        A             /
                                                                                  •

                                               1 jMrifr                 v-w
American citizens that there is a limit
                                                                         W jM^M
                                                                                 r»
                                               S«imisM i                    k *i
to the tenure of the President's high                               l        >V- t     s>2 JStk
                                           'j&     r
                                                           '
                                                               8|
office.  Continued rule for half a gen-    mf                    U.:i ,JSi
eration must turn a man into an auto-                          M i.^SjE
                                                               m JZTT ^m
                                                           "
                                           \   jF'-"
crat.    The old president has said
himeslf in his homely but shrewd way,      &-£         -

"that when one gets a'good ox to lead
                                           HL.f
                                                                    t3f3lMm
                                                               _£** V&^Bf             ^£H(
the team it is a pity to change him."
If a good ox, however, is left to
choose his own direction without
guidance, he may draw his wagon into
                                           ^^^1
trouble.                                       Monument                 in   Pretoria to
                                                 Young Boer                   Who Fell
     Let us take a peep at Pretoria,                   in       the Late War
capital of The Transvaal, and the most
typical Dutch city in  South Africa. Pretoria is situated in a hollow, surrounded by green-clad hills, and this made it possible to
conduct water from the Aapee river in furrows at the side of the
streets for irrigation purposes.  It was found that water perme-

<!-- page:550 -->

550                      IMPROVEMENT ERA

                                                of rough stone but this drawated the soil, the furrows being built
                                              since the          streets   have
back has been almost completely overcome
                                              drained, and the sysbeen macadamized, or paved, open spaces
tem of surface drainage established which
                                             now carries off all sur-
                   water,  back to the  Aapee   river    Pretoria has
face and drainage
                                of  36,837  whites,  21,114   Asiatics,
a mixed population consisting
                          eight and  one-half square   miles.
and 1,790 blacks.  Area,
     The executive capital of United South Africa is 1,042 miles
from Cape Town, 740 miles from Port Elizabeth, 510 from Dur-

                   THE LATE PRESIDENT KRUGER S HOME

ban and 42 miles from Johannesburg. In 1860 the emigrant
farmers north of the Vaal chose the village of Pretoria as the
capital, and a typical Dutch village it remained until the opening
of the gold fields, in 1886. Wealth flowed into the village which
took on renewed activity massive structures were built for State
                                   ;

and municipal purposes; it also received an impetus in 1910 to
fit   the   town   to take   its       place as the administrative   capital   of
United South Africa.    Government sanction was obtained for a
$6,000,000 loan for municipal improvements, which was expended
for part of the sewerage system, cattle market, steam disinfectors,
swimming baths, market,      etc.  The electric car line was constrcuted at a cost of one-half million dollars. The government also
expended large sums on public buildings. A magnificent pile of
public offices was hurried forward on Meinli/ee Kop, at a cost
of $5,000,000.    The new stone and brick post office was built.

<!-- page:551 -->

IN SUNNY AFRICA                        551

which cost $512,000, and a museum and library, $590,000, and
numerous lesser improvements were made.
    We had the pleasure of visiting the modest home of the late
President Kruger. Across the street may be seen the church that
he so faithfully attended. It is surrounded by a square tower
which contains a handsome clock. It is minus the gold hands,
which were stolen during the
war, and no attempt has been
made      to   replace them.   The
wide streets, running water,
and nice rows of shade trees
remind us in many ways of
our Salt Lake City, nestled
under the shade of the Wasatch.
   Let us hasten to Johannesburg, the golden city of the
Rand,    distance    forty - two
                                   Frank T. Hewlett at a United South
miles.         We
               are booked for           African Railroad Station
Cape Town, but the South
African railway officials are good-natured in giving us, without
extra charge, plenty of stopover privileges.       The railroads of
United South Africa are owned and operated by the government
which derives a handsome income on the invested capital. The
trains are patterned somewhat after the style of the English locomotives and coaches. The coaches are divided into compartments,
each to hold six persons. At night the cushions on either side
are dropped down in such a manner as to make six beds, or you
might call them wide shelves. Of course the guards, or, as we
would say, conductors, come along about dark, and the ladies are
given separate compartments from the gentlemen. Most of the
African people bring their own bedding, or it can be furnished
by the railway company, at two shillings and sixpence for two
nights, the price the same if used only for one night. For porters
we have kaffir boys about sixteen years old to roll up and take
care of the bedding. The dining cars are up-to-date breakfast
                                                         ;

and lunch cost two shillings and sixpence, and dinner three shillings.  You can order from the menu card, and have abundance
to take care of your appetite.   There are first, second and third
class.  Third class coaches are for the natives only. Many vexatious law suits have been taken to the courts to decide who is a
native,  and what constitutes a European. The blue-uniformed
conductor walks the length of the train and makes sure of his
total, waves a flag, the whistle toots plaintively, and the long line
leaps into motion, with a jerk, on the first stage of its long trip.
With a hoarse croak from the siren, and a grind of the wheels,
the Imperial Mail is off.     A blear of waving handkerchiefs, a

<!-- page:552 -->

:

552                   IMPROVEMENT ERA

glimpse of many signal posts, and cris-crossing of the rails, and
the old Pretoria station with the immense new one nearly
                                                            finished

fades from view.    Away,   on, with ever-gathering speed  through
                                                      hills of the
the suburbs into the country, and the low, golden
Rand can be seen in the western outline  of the African  sky. Ger-

miston, the great smelting city, with its tall chimneys belching out
the blackest smoke, is passed.
      We  are nearing Johannesburg, and all around it reminds us
of Mercur on a gigantic scale.      Gold mines everywhere. Ore

                   A GOLD MINE, JOHANNESBURG
dumps with their white, glittering sands piled up like miniature
mountains. Mills and their accessories for taking out and refining
the yellow metal, are scattered over forty miles of country.
     You take your choice and stop off at either Jeppe or Park
stations.   Johannesburg is the largest city in United South
Africa and, for short, is always called "Joberg." This city has
experienced one of the world's famous booms. There have been
splendid openings in The Transvaal for business propositions,
but things are quiet in the golden city at the present time. The
municipal .census of Johannesburg was taken in 1910, and the figures show that the total population of whites, natives, colonials
and Asiatics number 220,304, of which the proportions are about
whites, 111,857; natives, 95,522; colonial, or mixed, 7,749; and
Asiatics, 5,176.   It is interesting to know that of the whites,
63,761 are males and 48,096 females, and there are only 4,000
native females to 91,522 males, a circumstance that is accounted

<!-- page:553 -->

IN SUNNY AFRICA                                          553

for by the fact that most of the latter are working in the mines
within the municipal area, upon which women are not allowed.
    Johannesburg has an elevation of 5,735 feet. The city is situated on bleak; open downs, and for African climate is very cold
during the winter months, July and August, when snow occasionally falls,and many a morning you are used to finding the corrugated iron roofs whitened by Jack Frost. Nearly all the labor,
both in the mines and on the railways, is performed by the natives.
                                      .
                                          1
                                              The Chinese predominated for
                                              a period, but the Celestials
                                              created   so   much feeling
                                              among the Dutch, Zulus and
                                              Kaffir  tribes  that General
                                              Botha peremptorily ordered
                                              them out of The Transvaal,
                                              arid now John Chinaman and
                                              his queue is only a memory of
                                              the        strenuous      times      of   the
                                              past.
                                                         The
C.   Byron Whitney and Kaffir Group of
         Children, U.   S.   Africa
                                                    ..
                                              COOlieS
                                                            11.  shipment of
                                                               first
                                                            back   China was
                                                                       to
                                                                            /~>i

                                      made over five years ago, and
the next question   was how to obtain the cheapest labor. Gold
mining in the Transvaal is a low-grade proposition, and it must
be carried on at low wages.       Out of the sixty-five or seventy
mines on the Rand more than one-third do not yield over $7.50
worth of gold to the ton, and in some the yield is even less. The
quantity of ore is practically inexhaustible, and the output is limited almost entirely to the amount of labor at hand.       There is
plenty of labor in South Africa if it were always available.
There are five millions in the British possessions south of the
equator, and there are perhaps one million more in Portuguese
East Africa over the way. Of these, however, a large number
are comprised of old men, and women and children.         The men
employed in the mines range in age from 16 to 40, and it is estimated that there are only something like 390.000 available employees in the whole population.     As a rule the natives will not
work longer than six months at one time, so this reduces the
constant supply down to a possible 200.000 which, if it could be
relied upon, is far less than the wants of the country.  Before the
British-Boer war there were over one hundred thousand natives
employed in the gold mines. This number dropped to almost
nothing during that struggle; and the high wages then paid by
the armies and others so discouraged the industry that when the
war closed, and the mines again began to work, the labor supply
was almost down to zero.
    They work in compounds, or walled enclosures, entered only

<!-- page:554 -->

554                   IMPROVEMENT ERA

through turnstiles, so that every man that comes or goes leaves a
record.   Each black has only a number and that is taken from
him when he enters the compound. He is paid by his number
and gets his bath, food and supplies in the same way. The men
sleep in bunks or rooms about forty feet square and eighteen feet
high with a sheet iron roof over-head. Such a room is supposed
to accommodate fifty of the mine workers. The daily life of one
of these sons of Africa is worthy of note.    Pie is called at four
o'clock in the morning, at sound of the bugle, and takes his place
in a squad of about twenty-five, which is in charge of a boss boy
who leads them into a dining room for breakfast. He eats under

                JOUBERT S PARK, JOHANNESBURG

the glare of the electric lights, sitting at a table. At the close of
the meal a bugle again sounds, and the men march out, squad by
squad. The roll is then called. Each responds to his number,
and it is ascertained just how many natives are ready for the shift,
and a satisfactory reason must be given for, those who may be
absent from sickness or other causes.         Then the bugle blows
again and the natives, giggling like children, move off to the
shaft and go down underground.         Each takes along a half loaf
of bread and a bottle of tea or coffee for luncheon, at noon.     A
small percentage of them become experts with the hammer and
drill, and are singled out for a raise of wages.    Then another dif-
 ficulty arises with the expert, for when he gets a few months'

<!-- page:555 -->

:

                               IN SUNNY AFRICA                                     555

wages ahead, like as not he will go back to the Kaffir location,
buy a wife, and that is the last of him.
      The native labor is arranged for by contractors who sometimes receive over $5 per head, according to supply and demand.
The natives would fare better if they would decide on farming
and raising cattle for an occupation, as land is cheap and available
with a good market for their products.
      Double-decked electric cars are always convenient for you to
see the sights of Johannesburg. We visit Joubert Park which is
a beautiful resting place, 'mid shade and flowers, also the museum
and business district which is well-sprinkled with live Yankees.
      We next take a trip to Turfontein and Fordsburg, and the
suburban towns. But we are booked for Cape Town, Cape of
Good Hope let us hasten on our way. We bid the Golden City
             ;

of The Transvaal goodby as we steam southward past huge
mills, hills of white glittering sand, and factories,

                      Dutch Farmer Taking a Load of Cauli-
                               flower to. Market

    Elder   W.   C.   Jefferies     writes    from   Barnsley,   Engalnd,    recently

"We   are   obtaining         new   friends    constantly, and    have      many   ex-
                                     cellent   opportunities     of   explaining   the
                                     plan of salvation.      The people are very
                                     distant, but we have succeeded in gain-

   '9 if                w            ing the respect and confidence of a few
                                     of them.    Wedo not feel discouraged on
                                     account of the small numbers, for it was
                                     declared that they should be gathered
                               one of a city and two of a family. The
Lord is blessing the elders in their work. Elders, left to right: Milton
L. Ollerton, Parowan H. C. Williams, Greenville, Monroe Van Wag-
                          ;

oner, Midway, Utah."

<!-- page:556 -->

—                                                              —
