--- title: Improvement Era description: Monthly periodical of the Mormon church, 1897 onward. This library holds the issues of November 1897 to December 1930. authors: - Jensen, Jay C. collections: - periodicals tags: - magazine - improvement-era periodical: Improvement Era volume: 15 number: 2 published: 1911-12 publisher: Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Associations publisher_place: Salt Lake City language: en type: magazine reference: 'Jensen, Jay C., "Fuji San, Mecca of the Japanese Pilgrim," *Improvement Era* 15, no. 2 (December 1911): 117–125.' source: url: https://archive.org/details/improvementera1502unse transcription: Transcribed from the Internet Archive scan of each issue (the item for each issue is named in the issue's own source); unnumbered advertising leaves are omitted, printed page numbers are kept as page markers. identifier: improvementera1502unse start_page: 117 end_page: 125 rights: status: public-domain basis: US publication 1930 or earlier (published 1911-12) source: https://archive.org/details/improvementera1502unse publication_year: 1911 note: The Internet Archive item metadata carries a blanket "© Copyright by Intellectual Reserve, Inc." notice. The library owner judged it inapplicable because this issue was published in 1911, before 1931; a scan-level notice does not restore copyright. --- # Fuji San, Mecca of the Japanese Pilgrim Fuji San, Mecca of the Japanese Pilgrim BY JAY C. JENSEN, MISSIONARY TO JAPAN. When in the "grades," I first heard of Fujiyama, the beauti- ful, sacred mountain of Japan, and the thousands of religious pilgrims who climb to its summit every year. Little did I dream that some day, I also would mingle with them. When called to labor in this land, I tried to recall all I had read and heard of it, but by far my most vivid recollection was a picture of Fuji San in my first geography. I made up my mind that when I reached Japan, one of the things I must do would be to climb the famous mountain. Later, when I had learned some of the language, ami found that the Japanese have a saying that he who does not climb Fuji is a fool, and that he who climbs twice is a fool, I renewed my determination to make the trip. With peculiar feelings of expectation, I left Tokyo for Kofu City, at 5 o'clock on the morning of July 17. At Kofu I was to join some of the missionaries to ascend the mountain together. On the train I had a long talk with a doctor who had passed through Utah some years ago, and was very interested in hearing some- thing of its history. The road between Tokyo and Kofu is mostly through mountains. There are forty-three tunnels, in about as many miles. One of the tunnels, the longest in Japan,is approxi- mately three miles in length. At 11:30, at Kofu, I was met by Elders James Scowcroft, of Ogden, and James Miller, of Murray, Utah. At the mission house we met Elders Joseph H. Stimpson, of Riven laic and Lloyd Ivie, 6i Salina, Utah. A little later, a fine dinner, specially prepared by the Kofu elders, was served. Having labored in Kofu for six months last year, I had many friends there. All the afternoon, until late in the evening, there were some of them at the mission house. The next morning Elders Scowcroft, Miller, Ivie and the writer caught the 5 o'clock train and rode thirty miles towards Tokyo, to the little town of Otsuki, where we changed to the 118 IMPROVEMENT ERA "tetsudo-basha," a little horse car with a capacity of ten people, hut into which sixteen of us were crowded. We had a flfteen- mile, three-hour rule, up a, rather wide canyon which .here and there opened up enough for fair-sized towns to he built. Fuji San was in sight all the way; as we approached she towered higher and higher, while the apparently smooth sides mew rugged, with cliffs and canyons. At the end of the horse-car line, we were immediately taken MT. FUJI— VIEW FROM THE LAKE-SIDE OF SHOJIN. in charge by two old men, rustling for the best hotel in the little town of Yoshida. We went with them for dinner. On the way to the hotel, each of us purchased a large hat made of split bamboo and grass. One of the men had an English vocabulary of four words, viz., wife, boy, girls, and fin, and he used them on us all the way to the hotel. Our dinner consisted of boiled rice, boiled potatoes, a can of Chicago corn beef, and some cider. The landlord pressed us to take a guide, as the trail could be easily lost; some canned goods, because the food on the mountain was very poor, and some coolies to help us climb, and to carry some extra bedding, as the accommo- dations to be had on the trail were very insufficient. We told him that none of the things he proposed were necessary, and that we could eat anything the Japanese could, and could sleep in any bed FUJI SAN 119 that they could. He thought we were about the most peculiar foreigners he had ever seen. We had been in the country too long. We ordered horses, and when they came, there was a boy to lead each one. We had to submit, hut as the trail was quite steep we could not ascend faster than a walk. We donned our big hats, gave our climbing staffs to the horse boys, mounted, and were off. The road led through a beautiful grove of cryptomeria trees in the midst of which was situated the Sengen temple. Leaving the grove we traversed the foothills for about six miles to"Uma- gaeshi" (horse turn back). Our boys said that their horses could go part way up, so we decided not to turn them back, but to ride just as far as possible. After fifteen or twenty minutes of rest, we again mounted, and the real climb of the mountain commenced. The distance from Umagaeshi to the summit is unequally divided into ten divisions called "go." The stations are there- for called first "Ichi go me," second, "Ni go me," and so on, the last before reaching the summit being the ninth, or "Kugome." Our horses were able to carry us up as far as the fifth station. This station is just at the timber line. We' could not see much of the surrounding country until we reached there, but the ride was delightful. The trees were large and thickly set, and the under- brush, vines and ferns luxuriant. Occasionally, through a vista in the trees, we beheld one or more of the many lakes that cluster around the foot of the mountain. We stopped at each station long enough to have the station's stamp put upon our staffs to show that we had been at that place. Each stamp cost us one sen (one- half cent). We reached the fifth station at 5:45. After paying our boys, we took a snap-shot of the crowd, and commenced the climb afoot. Having ridden eight miles on horse-back, we had but three miles left, but they were the most difficult. Leaving the fifth station and the timber, we had our first un- obstructed view of the country below us. Already we were higher than most of the distant mountains, and were able to look down into the little valleys between them. About ten miles away, four of the beautiful lakes were seen at the base of the mountain. Between two of them we could see the village of Yoshida, where we had mounted our horses. Stringing out in single file, in order to keep on the narrow trail worn by the thousands of pilgrims who climb by this route every year, we commenced working up towards I -jo IMPROVEMENT ERA the sixth station. This required about half an hour. Again we we had the station stamp put upon our staffs. We started up the cinder path and about seven o'clock reached "Roku go me go shaku" (station six and one-half). We were inclined to stop here for the night, but finding a man there who could talk a little English, and who declined to say anything in CROSSING THE FOOTHILLS AFTER LEAVING YOSHIDA Japanese, we decided to press on to the next stop, rather than be bored half the night by very bad English. At dark we arrived at the seventh station, and arranged to stop there. Our hotel consisted of one large room, about fifteen by forty feet. Already about fifteen guests had arrived, and eaten their supper. The building, which was constructed of lava stones, was very low, being only about five feet and a half in the clear, inside, so we all had to stoop in going from place to place, except Elder Miller who, fortunately, was not quite tall enough to interfere with the beams supporting the roof. The floor was made of wood, carried from the foot of the mountain. It was covered with grass- matting which made it quite comfortable, especially after a hard climb. In the center of the room was a five-foot square where the floor was taken out, and there on the ground the fire was burn- ing. Above, hung a large iron pot of hot water, the contents of which later became our evening soup. The room had only two doors, and two small windows, all on the same side, the roof and FUJI SAN 121 walls were black with smoke, so that it was almosl impossible to see the length of the room. Our landlord proved to be a genial old man of about sixty, and soon we had our shoes off and were sitting around the fire watching him make the soup which, with some boiled rice, consti- tuted our evening meal. What it lacked in variety was made up in quantity, and we all thought it was about the finesl meal we had ever eaten. As we were eating, the old man put one large quilt, folded once, for each of us for our beds. After telling him that his was the finest station we had passed, that the supper was delicious, and a few other similar things, we had another quill each put out, and before we were through, still another was rolled up as a pillow for us. Our eyes were sore from the effects of the smoke in the room,, and it was quite a relief to go to sleep. About half past three in the morning, some of the other pilgrims began to get up, and the landlord came and told me that if we wanted to see the break of day and the sunrise, we would have to arise. We got out from between our heavy quilts ;i little before four o'clock. Within a few minutes we were amply rewarded with a most glorious sunrise. First, a few faint streaks of yellow ap- peared through the thin haze in the east, then the colors changed gradually into an orange hue, then into a brilliant red, and at last the sun itself, a huge reddish-orange orb, appeared from behind the distant mountains below us. After another meal of soup and rice, we joined a party of Jap- anese climbers, and at five o'clock were on our way to the summil . From here up, the climb became harder and harder, the ashes and cinders changed to large boulders, and the path became gradually steeper. We kept climbing slowly, slowly, little by Id tie we approached the summit, always in sight above us. At station eight, we stopped and had our sticks stamped, then went on again. Elders Scowcroft and Miller were not feeling very well, the break- fast soup not having agreed with them. By going slowly, however, they were able to keep climbing, and at last, after a very hard stretch of trail, we arrived at station nine. This station is built over the trail in such a way that every one musl go in at on.' end of the little house, and out at the other. From here to the summit was only a quarter of a mile, but it was the hardest climbing of the whole trip. However, at 7:30 we reached the tenth station on the summit. Here we immediately had our sticks stamped again, 122 IMPROVEMENT ERA unci bought some souvenir chopsticks and a fan. The latter was not for use, however, as snow and ice, and a very cold wind made it quite unnecessary. At last we were on the top of Fuji, the highest (except Mt. Morrison, in Formosa), the most beautiful, and the most famous mountain in this mountainous land of Japan; and the one Frank G. Carpenter, calls the finest and most beautiful mountain in all the world. She stands alone, rising from a large fertile plain, (except on the south side where the ocean washes the base) to a height of 12,390 feet, that being the altitude of Kengamine, the westernmost and highest point of the crater wall. Though Fuji San is now quiet, she is still a volcano, and eruptions took place up to 1708, at which time ashes fell six inches deep at Tokyo, seventy-five miles away. Even now, at several places near the lip of the crater, steam issues forth from the rocks, and by digging in a foot or two, it is hot enough to boil eggs. The lava streams that have flowed forth from Fuji, in ages past, were immense. One great stream can be traced to the Fuji river, fifteen miles away, and other great streams can be followed on other sides of the mountain. Fuji ranks high among the many sacred peaks of Japan, and every summer it is crowded with pilgrims. Formerly women could not ascend because of religious beliefs, but now they are allowed on the summit, and are not compelled to stop at station eight which formerly was the limit for them. After a short rest we began the trip around the crater. Elders Scowcroft and Miller turned back shortly after we started, while Elder Ivie and I finished the trip. We commenced from the east side. The weather was fine. There were some clouds, but they were higher than the summit, so did not obscure our view of the country below.. From the east side, we could see in the distance the Tokyo plain, with Tokyo far up the bay. Closer in, the capes and islands of Tokyo bay were seen and a little to the south, and still closer, was beautiful Lake Hakone, one of Japan's most popular summer resorts. Between Lake LOOKING INTO THE CRATER, 2,000 FEET WIDE AND 600 FEET DEEP. FUJI SAN L23 Hakone and the foot of the mountain were some snow-white clouds which made it impossible to see the foot of the mountain on that side. The summit is made up of a series of peaks surrounding the crater which has a diameter of about two thousand feet, and a depth of about six hundred feet, The trip around occupied an hour, the distance being said to be a little more than two miles, although that seems an exaggeration. Climbing up the path to the first little peak, we had our first glimpse of the crater. Great snow banks still remained on the south side. Excepl on that- side, the crater walls are perpendicular. w - - - M ~,"w-»»f« THE MAIN TEMPLE ON TOP. THE CREST OVER THE CENTER IS THAT OF THE IMPERIAL FAMILY— THE 16-PETAL CHRYSANTHEMUM. J. C. JENSEN ON RIGHT. Turning to the left, and passing- outside the wall a little way, we came to three places where steam was issuing out of the rocks. Crossing a little hollow we came to the "Gimmeisui" spring (famous silver water), at the head of the trail from the south side. A little farther we came to the chief temple of the mountain, a little build- ing of lava rock. On the front is a gilt crest of the Imperial Family, a sixteen-petal chrysanthemum. The gate in front of the temple lias not been re-erected this year, and was on the ground in front of the temple, all of which was sadly in need of repair. A little walk, and we were on top of Kengamine, the highest point of the mountain, and from which the most extensive view is obtained. To the south is the ocean, on the west ami north stretch rano-e after range of mountains, for a hundred miles. Southwest 124 IMPROVEMENT ERA is the Fuji river, whose wide, rocky bed is hidden in many places by the low, intervening hills. To the northwest can be seen the Kofu Valley, with the city nestling against the low hills on the further side. Descending from Kengamine, the path passes under it, just over a high cliff. Continuing north along the crater's lip, which is here very narrow, we have on one side the crater itself, and on the outside, a great gorge that seems to drop almost perpen- dicularly, downward about six thousand feet. Rising again, the path leads to another ice-cold spring called "Kimmeisui" (famous golden water). Five minutes more, and we were back at the huts, by the Yoshida trail, where we ascended. At 11:30 we commenced the decent by a different trail. The first two thousand five hundred feet to station six we ran in twenty minutes. To ascend took more than three hours. The trail follows a little depression full of cinders and fine ashes, enabling us to run just as fast as we dared here. Having plenty of time, we took long steps occasionally. Clouds had gathered around the foot of the mountain, and we passed through them, emerging just as we reached station one. Here we rested and had our sticks stamped. I sewed a few stitches in one of my shoes, to make it hold until I could reach Tokyo. Sliding down through the cinders was hard on shoes, and three of us had our shoes tied on with small ropes, which the Japanese use on their straw climbing sandals. From here to Umagaeshi is a distance of three miles. It was a beautiful walk, through a dense forest, in which here and there an opening had been made for little temples and shrines. At one temple we asked how far it was to Uma- gaeshi, and the priest said that it was about twelve "cho" (a little less than a mile). After walking about five min- utes, we came to a little rest-house, and were informed that DOWN 2,500 FEET IN 20 MINUTES. THE TRAIL FOLLOWS A DEPRESSION FULL OF CINDERS AND ASHES. Jas. Scowcroft, Jas. Miller, Lloyd Ivie. I-'I t.i i SAN 12£ it was about fourteen "cho" to Umagaeshi. After aboul ten minutes more, we met a man on horse back and again inquiring found thai it was eighteen '"cho." Deciding thai none of them knew any more about it than we did, we plodded on for about five min- utes when we suddenly came into the rest-house at Uma- gaeshi. Here we ordered a car- riage, a two-wheeled contriv- ance with no springs. Atop was attached to protect one from the sun. On a hard road, it would have been a rough thing to ride in, since we had to sit half way down. on the bottom, but the road Jay C. Jensen, J as Scowcroft, J as. Miller. i <• 1 • 1 Heber, Utah. Ogden, Utah. Murray, Utah, was Covered a toot deep With cinders and ashes, so it was not very hard riding. After about an hour's ride. we arrived at Subashiri village, As the six o'clock car would connect with our train for To- kyo, we decided to wait, and spent the hour in conversing with a crowd of children who gathered to see us. This ride of five miles was through a very pretty country — groves of pine and bamboo, and rice fields. At 7:15 we arrived at Gotemba station, on the main line of railroad, running from Tokyo to southern and western Japan. We caught the train for Tokyo, arriving half an hour later. OUR CARRIAGE (?) FOR FIVE MILES- HALF WAY DOWN. Tokyo, Japan.