--- title: Improvement Era description: Monthly periodical of the Mormon church, 1897 onward. This library holds the issues of November 1897 to December 1930. authors: - Hewlett, Frank J. collections: - periodicals tags: - magazine - improvement-era periodical: Improvement Era volume: 13 number: 8 published: 1910-06 publisher: Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Associations publisher_place: Salt Lake City language: en type: magazine reference: 'Frank J. Hewlett, "Peoples and Places in the Orient—IX. Japan’s Great Jubilee," *Improvement Era* 13, no. 8 (June 1910): 680–690.' source: url: https://archive.org/details/improvementera1308unse transcription: Transcribed from the Internet Archive scan of each issue (the item for each issue is named in the issue's own source); unnumbered advertising leaves are omitted, printed page numbers are kept as page markers. identifier: improvementera1308unse start_page: 680 end_page: 690 rights: status: public-domain basis: US publication 1930 or earlier (published 1910-06) source: https://archive.org/details/improvementera1308unse publication_year: 1910 note: The Internet Archive item metadata carries a blanket "© Copyright by Intellectual Reserve, Inc." notice. The library owner judged it inapplicable because this issue was published in 1910, before 1931; a scan-level notice does not restore copyright. --- # Peoples and Places in the Orient—IX. Japan’s Great Jubilee Peoples and Places in the Orient. BY FRANK J. HEWLETT, DIRECTOR OP THE UTAH STATE FAIR AND PRESIDENT OF HEWLETT BROS. COMPANY. IX.— Japan's Great Jubilee— "A-1-o-h-a," "Sayonarra." July 1, 1909, was a red-letter day in Japan. It marked the fiftieth anniversary of the opening of Yokohama to foreign trade. The occasion was one unanimously chosen by Japanese and foreigners alike as worthy of being celebrated in a triumphal manner. Fifty years ago the ground upon which Yokohama now stands was occupied by an insignificant fishing village, bearing the name of Yokohamamura. It was not very long after its opening, in 1859, that the tide of emigration, both native and foreign, set in with a rush. Commerce and industry developed with almost phenomenal rapidity. Equally remarkable progress was achieved in many other branches of public activity, with the result that the little fishing village has been transformed into one of the leading commercial and shipping centers of the Orient. From a cipher the foreign trade of the port has grown to a total of three hun= dred and sixty million yen— cut the figure in two, you have dollars — a year, according to the latest returns, and its population is slightly over four hundred thousand souls. The Japanese and foreigners, Americans predominating, worked like Trojans together for this celebration. The result was that nothing quite so elaborate was ever seen in Yokohama before. The decorations alone cost fifty-two thousand dollars. The buildings throughout the city were gorgeously decorated with flags, lanterns, bunting and electric lights. There was a perfect system attached to it that was wonderful. The little brown archi- PEOPLES AND PLACES IN THE ORIENT. 681 tects planned the decorations for the main streets as carefully as if they were planning a permanent structure. On one of the most prosperous business streets, the Benten-Dori, they had arranged on both sides trellises of bamboo, on which were hung bunches of imitation wisteria, and at regular intervals were suspended large lanterns under miniature temples, each lantern gaily decorated with the new coat-of- arms of the city, and the fiftieth anniversary jubilee characters. Above all was an umbrella-like spray of paper objects in colors, and the effect, especially at night, was most charming. Electric lights, sparkling like glistening stars in the trees, was a novel idea, and with an immense painting, depicting Yokohama in 1859 and 1909, you may just imagine it was all worth seeing. And people! — you might well call it one stupendous conference. Tokyo is only eighteen miles away; out of her millions of people she sent her full quota, and with other towns and villages pouring their hosts in, the narrow streets became almost impassable. Vehicles were barred from the principal thoroughfares during the afternoon. Even the "rikisha" was not allowed, but as soon as the police had the first opportunity to make an opening for the foreigners they invariably did so. The Japanese do not have one immense procession, as in our country, but it was divided, as near as we could judge, into about one hundred of them, which gave the people in different parts of the city an equal chance to see one of them, at least. But to describe a Japanese procession would tax the wits of any American. They are generally headed by a float, on which is represented a daimyo, or to be plain, one of the old war-lords in traveling regalia, composed first of his bearers, carrying long poles, at the tops of which were long bunches of feathers, and in some cases wool; then, the carriers, bearing lacquer boxes, which contained his wardrobe, armor, swords, arrows and bows, etc. He, himself, was borne in a palanquin of gorgeous workmanship, and followed by an officer of his court, the whole making an imposing display. The music was the poorest feature of the parades. The bands generally consisted of five musicians, four beating drums, and a leader playing the flute. Take an ordinary beer-keg, knock out the two ends, then cover with a tough piece of hide, and you have 682 IMPROVEMENT ERA. a typical Japanese drum. After the band followed a stuffed elephant, then a score or more of children, drawing a tall figure in full uniform, which was really an awful caricature. On many of the corners were erected platforms, high enough so that you could see the geisha girls dance, while others were devoted, for the time being, to theatrical performances. They were weird plays, mostly representing old feudal times, the long sword playing an important part. The native people seem to enjoy it, so no one else had any cause for complaint. Photo by F. J. Hewlett. YOKOHAMA JUBILEE DAY. Scene on the Houchi-Dori. Head of of the main procession, July 1, 1909. We visited an interesting exhibition held in Memorial Hall. If was instructive, and reflected the conditions existing at the eventful period of inception, of relics and souvenirs of the time, and by illustrations and works, both from the Japanese and foreign standpoint. The articles in the exhibition were divided into two sec- PEOPLES AND PLACES IN THE ORIENT. 683 tions, one representing the period prior to, and including the opening of the port, while the other represented the changes immediately following. In the Japanese picture we saw the foreigners eating with knives and forks, and their behavior in the teahouses— well, the caricatures were "awfully funny." The American magazines had illustrations of the first Japanese embassy in Washington, at Willard's hotel, sitting a la Japanese, playing a game similar to chess, while the photographs illustrated the more serious side, including one of Prince Ito while abroad. Relics of Commodore Perry were numerous, including his sword and parts of his costume. The sword was given by Commodore Perry to Mr. Horton, who died and was buried in Yokohama. Other exhibits included steam engines and scales brought by Commodore Perry, a saddle spotted with blood, which was used when Sakuma Shozan was assassinated in Koyoto, in 1864; a proclamation which was Photo by f. J. Hewlett. YOKOHAMA JUBILEE DAY. A Special Parade, July, 1909. 684 IMPROVEMENT ERA. posted in Yokohama by the central government in the early days of the Meija era, when precautions were necessary to overcome the public sentiment and spirit against foreigners; the first mail box in Yokohama, and its notice-board in English and Japanese; the first paper money in a foreign language issued by the Yokohama bank in the denomination of dollars; watehes, clocks, instruments of many kinds, then new to Japan, and first brought into the country at that period; the designs and models of the warships Kaiyo and Nisson, the nucleus of Japan's modern navy, presented by the Dutch ship-builders There were many interesting exhibits that portrayed to the Japanese, as well as the visitors, the marvelous strides and accomplishments of the fifty years now closed. After dark, the floating spectacle on the bay was magnificent. We were unable to count the numerous barges, sampans, sailboats and launches paraded, all beautifully decorated with Japanese lanterns of every color and size. To cap the climax, four of the battleships that were dotted with electric lights, from the top of the masts to the waterline, were lighted each night, as a courtesy to our own United States. The show of fireworks was grand, and on one occasion ended with a masterpiece, "The American Flag." The Jubilee lasted three days, and was pronounced by all an unqualified success. Thousands of people paced the streets all night. In the morning you would find them sleeping on the benches alongside the bay, sitting on the doorsteps, inside of packing boxes, and, in fact, in every nook and corner available. No one molested them. Though tired out, all were happy, even the little tots being dressed in the gayest of colors. Many had their faces painted, making them appear like little Indians. Our time in Japan is drawing to a close, the S. S. Korea, sister ship to the Siberia, is now anchored inside the break-water of Tokyo bay, and her cargo, consisting mainly of tea, silk and rice, are being hoisted aboard. In twenty-four hours we will commence t>he homeward voyage. In Japan there is a vast amount of detail work in connection with business and with traveling through the empire; at the same time, there is something fascinating about the mingling with a strange people, with stranger customs, and in their own country, but when one understands their ways th.3 task is lighter. One learns their way of conduct- PEOPLES AND PLACES IN THE ORIENT. 685 ing business, studies the climatic conditions, watches the beautiful flowers, dwarfed trees and shrubs. One visits the gilded temples of Tokyo, Kyoto and Nikko, and tries to solve the mysterious rites and ceremonies conducted there. Our thoughts fly fast, as they take us once more through the bamboo groves into the rice fields and tea gardens, the meetings with the elders from our own "dear mountain home," who are promulgating the gospel to this strange Photo by F. J Hewlett. AMERICANS ENJOYING JAPAN'S GREAT JUBILEE. people. We wander in thought once more through the little villages, and remember the polite bow and the pleasant smile. We sometimes doubt that they are genuine, but it is sufficient for them to know we are guests in the land of the Mikado. They are at least successful in creating a good impression with the foreigners. The longer you remain, the more you realize that Japan unfolds mystery after mystery, and from dawn to dark the gradual fulness of her charms. There is no end to the surprises of Japanese character, and after a foreigner has spent months in the midst of this charming people, he must confess that he enjoys the native simplicity. At the same time, there is a mysterious, invisible barrier which rises between us, a line plainly drawn, which tells us that 686 IMPROVEMENT ERA. the people of the Occident and the people of the Orient can never dwell together as one. Our voyage on the steamship Korea, from Yokohama to San Francisco, take it all together, was a pleasant and interesting one. There were many genial spirits aboard, among them being Amos P. Wilder, United States Consul to Hong-Kong, just transferred to Shanghai; Willard Martin, Consul at Hankow; Alexander Young, the genial host and proprietor of the Alexander Young hotel, the finest in Hawaii; besides many American missionaries, with their families, just returning from several years' work in Japan, China and Korea. We enjoyed their lectures and informal talks very much. The sky was bright with tropical sunshine above, and the blue water beneath us was asleep, as the good steamship, Korea, gently churned her way into Honolulu bay, at about eleven o'clock in the morning. The passengers were all dressed to go ashore, but the question with all was, "How long will we be allowed to meander around beautiful Honolulu?" The first-class passengers, at the sound of the gong, appeared in the dining-room and successfully passed quarantine inspection. After luncheon the purser stated that the Korea would not sail until the next day at five o'clock p. m., sharp, and wished us all a delightful time. He also said, among other charming bits of pleasantry, that he would be pleased to take back, free of charge, all the fruits and flowers we could carry aboard. Clapping our hands like school children, all as happy as the many bridal couples aboard, we scampered on deck. The old saying was once more verified, "There is many a slip 'twixt the cup and the lip." The Chinese sailors were closing the gangway, the yellow flag was being pulled up the second time, orders were given to move back into quarantine. A Chinese passenger in the steerage had just developed a case of bubonic plague. Notices were posted on board stating that no passengers would be allowed to go ashore, with other instructions added. We were disappointed. So were the good people of Honolulu. Ship-day is one of the red letter " events with them. During the night the steerage quarters and all in them were fumigated. When we awoke the next morning the Korea was tied to the wharf, but the yellow flag was still at the top of the mast. PEOPLES AND PLACES IN THE ORIENT. 687 The cargo was discharged, the new lot swung aboard and dropped into the hold, and ninety-three of the ninety-five passengers booked for San Francisco appeared at the appointed time, and were allowed to sail with us the remainder of the voyage. Bubonic plague had no terror for them. A' surprise awaited us. At four o'clock, one hour before sailing time, the people of Honolulu came to the wharf loaded with carnations and other beautiful flowers made into leis, "wreaths," which they sent aboard. A few moments later ev^ery woman was decked with flowers, as were many of the men. The Royal Hawaiian band came on the wharf and played stirring airs, choosing for the last the one that the Hawaiian's love so well, A-l-o-h-a, meaning "Love to all," which was followed by the "Star Spangled Banner," and the last we heard was its patriotic strains, and wa saw the good people of Honolulu waving flags and handkerchiefs, throwing flowers, with A-l-o-h-a, A-l-o-h-a, A-l-o-h-a. The scene brought many tears to the eyes of the quarantined passengers of the Korea. It was courtesies that ever will be remembered. During the evening the Honolulu passengers, with several natives, assembled in the social hall and sang the sweet songs of Hawaii. Alexander Young gave a short talk on Honolulu and her people, which was well received. A pretty souvenir was presented to each of the passengers on which was engraved only one word, but we all knew what it meant — A-l-o-h-a. A few days later the Korea approaches the "Golden Gate," and the old, familiar scenes unfold before us like an immense panorama. We quietly wend our way to the stern of the liner, and as we watch the foaming trail of white mingled with blue, our thoughts fly fast as our minds wander back to the teeming millions of people and the mystic places of interest left behind in Photo by F. J. Hewlett. Amusing the passengers with the monkeys — Ben and Betsy — on board the S. S. Korea. 688 IMPROVEMENT ERA. the Orient. We realize that it is no dream, that the people have awakened from the sleep of centuries. What it means is quite beyond the possibility to estimate. Picture an ocean that stretches from the Arctic to the Antarctic. On the one hand border it with the shores of the two Americas, and on the other, assemble the empires of Russia, Japan, Korea, Formosa, the Philippines and India, — and central among all these places, the vast territory of the Chinese empire, with a population numbering nearly one third that of the entire globe. Imagine, too, this mass of people living in exclusion and almost apart from the other people of the world and, in a fashion, quite like that of the ancients of four thousand years ago. Then, suddenly, the gateways to this empire are swung wide open, like the gates to Japan! All nations are welcomed to her ports; the needs of modernization are readily recognized; the wants and demands of over four hundred millions of people who had previously required nothing from beyond their own borders, thereupon lecome the complex wants and demands concurrent with our western civilization. Already, to fill their needs, through the great artery of Suez is pouring the commerce of Europe, and the trans-Pacific lines are constantly increasing their capacities to accommodate this new trade. Great Britain, France, Germany, the United States, and other wealthy nations, are playing their financial cards to perfection, each in hopes of outwitting the others in securing the lion's share of the gilt-edged Chinese bonds and securities that are being placed on the market, the funds derived therefrom to be used in gigantic enterprises already planned. The high class Chinese are men of honor and integrity. They can also be relied on. They do not say one thing and mean another. Thus opens the world's greatest commercial drama — a drama which is accompanied by all the elements of the dramatic, of conquest, of the heroic and the romantic. There will be scenes laid at the courts of kings and emperors, and there will be councils where ambassadors of nations will attend; for never before has there been, and it is doubtful one will ever occur again, a commercial situation of such international importance. Compared with the undertakings to be accomplished during this new era, the splendid achievements of the present day will fade into insignifi- PEOPLES AND PLACES IN THE ORIENT. 689 cance. There will rise up new leaders of finance, new captains of industry; new and greater lines of steamships must be built, new railroad systems projected, and put in operation; there must be countless new manufactories, mercantile establishments, banks, telegraph and telephone systems. In fact, every avenue of business must be opened up through the empire, for China has indeed awakened, and she will not be content until she has reared her industries and her institutions to a comparison with those of our own glorious country under the Stars and Stripes. When China has her great Jubilee, it will be so gigantic and on such a magnificent scale, that all other people and places in the Orient will pale in comparison, and the echoes of it will be heard throughout the entire world. Sayonarra. (the end of this series of letters.) Courage, My Brother. (For the Improvement Era.) Why grieve o'er the past, my brother? The future holds more for thee; Why waste thy moments in vain regrets? Strive thou, more loyally. For life is only a span — From birth to the echoless shore, Where the boatman waits so silently, With a hand on the ready oar. 0 why do you falter, brother, And why despair by the way? Tho' the way be dark or the path be lone ! Thy summons may come today. Are you helping a failing brother? Are you shielding a sister from sin? Are you giving freely your gold for need? Do you strengthen the weak to win? And to hearts that love you and trust you. Are you speaking sweet words today? And those who are bowed with the care of years, Are you seeking with love to repay? 690 IMPROVEMENT ERA. Onward, more bravely, brother! The Savior is calling to thee; He is waiting to bring thee safe home again, To a land by the shining sea. And the land just beyond the shadows, Is free from all pain or tears; So gird on thy armor, my brother, And strive through the fleeting years. Grace Zenor Robertson. Parker, Idaho. Let us Bear up the Cross. (For the Improvement Era.) Stand valiant, ye Saints, for the hour is at hand When many shall fall though we think that we stand. A warning doth sound over Zion aloud And a prophecy falls in the voice of the cloud; Array for the battle, ye hosts of the Lord, Truth perched on your banner, and death on your sword. The armies of Satan are marshalled abroad, Let us stand for the faith and the kingdom of God. Whatever befalls, let us walk in the light, Lest we fall by the way in the gulf of the night. Whatever befalls, 0 let not a 'plaint Be found in the hand or the heart of a Saint. Let us bear up the Cross which our patriot sires So valiantly bore from their city of spires, When ahead they beheld but the heart of the waste, And behind them the smoke of their city effaced; Which heroes and prophets, through martyrdom's path, Have carried to glory, to fame and to death; Which Christ, the Redeemer, through babels of strife, Once carried in triumph to death and to life. Let me carry the burdens along till I faint, WTith the zeal of a Paul and the heart of a Saint! Let me hold to the nations the Cross, while I stand; When I fall, let me fall with the Cross in my hand. Theodore E. Curtis.