---
title: Improvement Era
description: Monthly periodical of the Mormon church, 1897 onward. This library holds the issues of November 1897 to December 1930.
authors:
  - Taylor, Alma O.
collections:
  - periodicals
tags:
  - magazine
  - improvement-era
periodical: Improvement Era
volume: 5
number: 11
published: 1902-09
publisher: Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Associations
publisher_place: Salt Lake City
language: en
type: magazine
reference: 'Alma O. Taylor, "How It Is Done in Japan," *Improvement Era* 5, no. 11 (September 1902): 881–885.'
source:
  url: https://archive.org/details/improvementera0511unse
  transcription: Transcribed from the Internet Archive scan of each issue (the item for each issue is named in the issue's own source); unnumbered advertising leaves are omitted, printed page numbers are kept as page markers.
  identifier: improvementera0511unse
start_page: 881
end_page: 885
rights:
  status: public-domain
  basis: US publication 1930 or earlier (published 1902-09)
  source: https://archive.org/details/improvementera0511unse
  publication_year: 1902
  note: The Internet Archive item metadata carries a blanket "© Copyright by Intellectual Reserve, Inc." notice. The library owner judged it inapplicable because this issue was published in 1902, before 1931; a scan-level notice does not restore copyright.
---

# How It Is Done in Japan
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HOW IT IS DONE IN JAPAN.
         BY ELDER ALMA 0. TAYLOR, OF THE JAPAN MISSION.

      [Writing from Tokio to the officers and members of the Y. M. and Y.
L. M. I. A., of the Thirteenth Ward, Salt Lake City, Utah, Elder Alma 0.
Taylor treats upon some of the customs of Japan in eating, transporta-
tion and hair-dressing, that will interest    young readers of the Era.       —
Editors.]

        Dear Associates:   —Every time comb my
                                          I            hair, the    little   set
of toilet implements which you presented me, just before I left
home, remind         me   of the   many pleasant hours I have spent in
your society, and conscience has been stinging me severely of late
for neglecting my duty in writing to you, just because what I write
may be an oft-told tale.
        This reminds me:     I   went down town to the photographer's
yesterday to see about eome snap-shots that were taken on the day
of President Grant's departure for Zion.         While going along the
largest and perhaps one of the busiest streets in Tokio,                I    saw
something which struck me as being rather odd.               On the sidewalk,
just outside of a large wholesale paper store, there was a young
man sitting on a small stool having his hair cut.            The one who was
performing the operation was dressed in a long, white, linen suit
which looked, except in color, like the outer robe of an English
country pastor.         The barber had just finished   his   work of ampu-
tation, which had evidently been done with the clippers, for there
was     little   on the young man's head but the scalp and the
                 left

phrenological bumps, and was applying the Japanese cure for dand-
ruff.   This treatment is evidently not pleasant. The barber had a
little round comb, perhaps two inches in diameter, cut from a bam-

boo stick, hollow in the center, and having teeth like the ordinary

<!-- page:882 -->

hair comb.    This he was rubbing over the victim's scalp with con-
siderable speed, and looking out at the passers-by with so little at-
tention to what he was doing that perhaps his pressure was rather
hard, for the young man was pulling a face like we generally make
when our hair is suddenly jerked the wrong way.      This process
put me in mind of a carpenter sand-papering a board, and I ven-
ture to say a person's head must become pretty much like a block
of    wood to stand such treatment once a month.          I   inquired at the
photographer's if such a thing were         common here.          He told me
that these "traveling barber shops," as I call them, get nearly as
much patronage as those regularly established. With a satchel, con-
taining tools, in hand, and an occasional screech which sets the
fruit vender of Salt Lake City in the shade, these fellows in their
white robes wander through the business parts of the city, paus-
ing to do their work whenever hailed by the busy merchant who
has no time to leave his store to go to a barber shop.             Many, so I
am told, of the prominent business men think it no disgrace to sit
outside the front door of their establishments and have their hair
trimmed by these men.      To the young men           in Zion,    who      sit   in
beautifully upholstered chairs and look into mirrors surrounded with
elaborately silvered   or gilded frames, while          some     skilled    hair-
dressers work for an hour over each person to please the stylish
fancies of the civilized, such a thing as a seat on a stool in the
street would appear as being altogether too crude.             And as one of
those youths of Zion, I do feel to criticize such luxuries.                 Thus
far I have escaped the curry-comb treatment administered for six
sen (three cents) in these open air parlors, and if good fortune
continues to come my way, I will always hunt the place that adopts
the foreign system of cutting hair.
    Of the thousands of male students who attend the schools in
Japan, but a very, very few  have hair long enough to comb.
They say long hair makes them weak-minded.    It seems to me

that such a statement     fitly   suits   some of the "tin-horn sports"
at home who are so particular about        the lay of their locks that
they are only good for mirror smashers and idle posers.
       When I left home there was a gread fad among the girls in
regard to a new way of wearing their          hair.     They nearly went
wild over "rats."    And while they would climb               a perpendicular

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HOW IT IS DONE IN 'JAPAN.                           883

brick wall to get away from a mouse, they would spend the last
penny they had for a "rat," and take delight in building a comfort-
able nest for it in their hair.    This idea of "rats" for the hair was
undoubtedly originally taken from the Japanese women who have
used such things under the name "maga," for ages.   Here they
have    little   "rats," big "rats," oblong "rats," round "rats," flat
"rats," and a dozen other kinds of "rats," all of which are used to
make the women attractive to the sterner sex. If a drawing were
to be made of the outlines of every fold of hair on a native
female's head, the result would compare very favorably with the
most complex Chinese character, which, to the stranger, looks like
a confusion of marks.       By the use of a perfumed, oily lotion, the
naturally coal-black hair of the    women is made to shine like a
piece of varnished lacquerware, and no head of hair         is   considered
beautiful, or even a good black color, unless      it    glistens like the
feathers of a crow on a rainy day.        The "rats" are not the only
things for which the American women are indebted to Japan, but
many of their most beautiful      tea gowns, and morning costumes,
are a feeble attempt to duplicate the elegant attire of the stylish
Japanese ladies.
     The people here ride mostly in "jinrikishas," (little carts
drawn by human beings), and it is interesting to observe the mo-
tions of the men as they run along.    In the horse kingdom there
are what we call trotters, pacers, runners, single-footers, etc. It

is   just so with the    men who take the place of horses, in Japan.
Brother Ensign and 1 were returning from a         visit    to   the   hotel
where Elder Kelsch is now staying, and we noticed, while walking
a quarter of a mile, some "rikisha-men" who moved like trotting
horses, others like pacers, and still others had a galloping gait, but
it   struck me on the funny spot when Elder Ensign said, "Look at
the single-footer coming      down the   street!" and,    on looking up,
sure enough here came a little fellow pulling his load, and "step-
ping it off" like the best trained animals on our race tracks.           To
see human flesh thus subjected to the labor, which, in other lands,
isperformed by horses or machinery, excites our sympathy and
                                    some sights connected with
raises our indignation, but there are
these crude methods that are most laughable, and which lead us to
make such comparisons as the above.

<!-- page:884 -->

Elder Ensign and          I     are still located in a native hotel, and I
do not suppose that         I,       at least, will        return entirely to foreign
style for some years.            This fact does not worry me, for              I   have
become so accustomed to nearly all things Japanese that such a
life is quite pleasant. We have our chop-sticks and our rice every

day, and have become proportionately skillful in the use of the
former, to the increase in capacity and appetite for the latter.
We very often have native guests to eat with us.                       On these occa-
sions we frequently get a beefsteak or                      some other kind of meat
not in the regular diet, and are provided with a knife and fork
with which to handle             it;    but; we always give these tools to the
visitors— sometimes (according to the toughness of the meat)
doing so out of preference and other times for courtesy's sake.
                                                      !

       *   *   *   Night before           last we sent out for        some bowls of
"kisoba:"      This   is   a sort of noodle soup; the noodles, however,
being nearly a foot long, and about the size of a small straw in
diameter. The Japanese method of eating this dish (which method
we have also adopted) is in open rebellion                    to the rules of foreign
table etiquette, but quite in             harmony with         oriental thought.    We
take up the noodle on the chop-sticks, and put one part into our
mouths, but as the remaining part reaches down into the bowl, it
is   not at all easy to wiggle at such long substance with teeth and
lips alone, so,like the rest of Japan, we give a prolonged suck, accom-

panied by the usual peculiar sound, and, the noodle being greased,
the tail end soon reaches our mouths and flops out of sight like a
wet eel. The other night Elder Ensign was going to show me how
skillful he had become in this art, but he sucked a little too hard,

causing the tail end to flip up and hit him in the eye, and he has
behaved himself ever since. The first time I ever ate this food
was in an eating house that served nothing else. I was invited to
the place by our native interpreter. In the room next to the one
in   which we sat was a party of six or eight persons all sucking at
the same time.     The partition between being only paper pasted
over a wooden frame, we could hear the sound distinctly.          The
noise was horrible.         But the gentleman who was with me assured
us that it was not considered proper to eat this kind of food with-
out sucking it into the mouth, and                I       soon learned that he was a
man of his word.           A party of two dozen "kisoba-eaters" would

<!-- page:885 -->

HOW IT IS DONE IN JAPAN.                                 885

stand a good show of being arrested for disturbing the peace,                       if
they attempted to hold a reunion in the thickly settled portions of
an American city.
       I   am not yet a professor of             the Japanese language.        I   can
tell when I am hungry, what I want to eat, what I like, and what
I don't like; when 1 want my bed made; that I am a "Mormon,"

that God is our Father, that Jesus is the Savior of mankind, that
Joseph Smith was a prophet, that the Bible and the Book of Mor-
mon are sacred and inspired                   records, and a   few other things;
but, if by the use of a word or two a person forms the idea that I
am thoroughly versed in the language, and so commences to talk
to me, I can stay with him for about ten seconds, but after that I
feel like running.          This language, according to an American ex-
pression, is a "fright,"         It    is   the most formidable stone in our
path   ;
           yet, by the help of the Lord, we are gradually crushing and
hauling it away.
       I   rejoice in the reports that          come to us oi the      faith that   is

being exhibited for us by the people in Zion, especially by the
Saints of        the Thirteenth Ward, whose            interest   in   this mission

is   naturally     great.    God      bless    you for your prayers. We need
them       and    are     striving    to      be worthy of the blessings in-
voked.       *    *   *

       Letters received at different times from the bishop and other
ward folk give glowing accounts of this year's success in your
Mutual work. The desires which I have had in the past for the
success of this organization are still the same, and                   I   ask God's
                        upon you associationally and individually.
richest blessings to rest
With united and energetic work you cannot fail.
                                      Your brother and associate,
                                                         Alma 0. Taylor.
